I have a new MITSUBISHI ELECTRIC air conditioner and it came with a AEH25E 541E controller
However when i seen the screen i noticed the left side had a tiny bit of "tried to be peeled" plsatic. I wanted to ask if removing the plastic will also remove the texts above the buttons or not
Thanks in advance
I've seen the newest Humble Bundle about CSP but there's a little thing that's worrying me out
I already have my own custom brushes and i've seen you can buy/download the new ones, but i wonder if whenever you download em into CSP they're separated from the brushes that i made, or if they're hidden somewhere where you can check them out and test before putting them into a brush folder or something from the brush tool's folders/category, etc
I just don't want to lose my brushes
Thanks in advance
Budget: -800€
Actual monitor: Benq XL2420T (1080p 120hz 24" TN)
Region of buying: Spain (So Amazon, PCComponentes, etc)
Uses: Adobe products (Basic-medium quality, Photoshop and illustrator mainly but also Premiere), CLIP STUDIO PAINT, Handbrake and tons of web browsing
And gaming of all kinds (Music, dark games, single indie to AAA quality games), just non competitive
Yes, tons of statics for hours
PC:
Be Quiet! DARK BASE PRO 901 + 1 rear Noctua NF-14x25 G2 CB + front Noctua NF-14x25 G2 CB Sx2 PP
MB: GIGABYTE X870E AORUS PRO X3D
CPU: 9800X3D + Noctua NH-D15 G2 CB
RAM: Crucial 2x16GB DDR5 6200mhz
GPU: Nvidia GIGABYTE RTX 4070 Super GAMING OC
PSU: CORSAIR HX1200i SHIFT 2025
2 SSDs
I want to get rid of my monitor due to some screen defects and because i want better colours.
Screen defects can be seen here (from center to center-right you can notice somoe white/brighter trails) , specially the white and black screenshots https://imgchest.com/p/na7kg9x8k48
So i was looking for a new monitor with the following specs:
-27" max
-1440p max (4K would make me downgrade graphics in certain games and i'd like to take full advantage in a balanced way)
-Maximum 240hz (Anything past 240hz would be non noticeable, and if a monitor goes past 240hz i'd reduce it back to a proper one if a game looks weird on +240hz)
I've been looking with the last monitors but been having mixed thoughts:
-Xiaomi G Pro 27qi 2026: The Delta 8 uniformity on colours makes it impossible to focus on drawing correctly
-ASUS XG27ACMES: Checks most of the options, even tho it's IPS, people says "Blacks looks grey" but aren't TN monitors looking kinda grey, too?...Sure, there might be IPS glow lotter, but the monitor, from a reviewer, has the most lowest Delta uniformity on whites and colours.
However, people says OLED models have become better over the years with Tandem and all, but i've also seen that even Tandem have text fringing? and vertical banding,.. But OLEDs have the whole burn-in IN DUE TIME (Oh yeah, they take longer now, but...They burn in the end) and i kinda don't like baby sitting my monitor (I am using a LG C3 TV but that's another topic. We're talking PC here, main monitor, not using a 2nd monitor while still keeping my TN)
So i would like to know your suggestions in both IPS and OLED monitors and the why for each. Don't say "Just buy an OLED and forget", noooonononono... Be reasonable
Went to a shopping center and they had the TV exposed with the corresponding demo video on
The only thing i've noticed sharp was the SONY logo. While the entire deal looked very colourful and 60FPS smooth, i thought i'd see more sharpened details in the yarn balls or the flowers (yellow one and the washed pink one) but they were pretty smoothened out...
While next to OLED the OLED looked brutally sharpened
Would the 9 II also have this image qualty?. Sadly no exposed unit in Spain yet but we were looking forward to it to replace a +12 year old 55" BRAVIA
Do any of you owners of the V6 Ultra have had any issues with it?
-Chattering (1 press = More than one letter inputted)
-Stabilizers or "Pressing twice only registers once", like the space bar
-Pressing one key activates another one even without pressing it
With the default board (switches, keycaps, etc)
And how long did ya had it?
Planning to upgrade my Logitech G213 to this but wanna know opinions. And if ya returned em, why, and wha did ya got instead / went back and used something else?
Owner of a Logitech G213 (My 3rd or 4th i think) and wanted to upgrade it to something better. Uses:
-Loads of text typing and drawing shortcuts reaching (Not related to the 4 top right custom keys, wich would be customized for media keys)
-ALL KINDS OF GAMING (Including STEPMANIA/DDR games, so multi-key pressing precision/speed is required)
-ISO-ES 100% layout + Red switches
The questions are:
-Being used to the G213's keycaps (OEM?), would the V6U have the same keycap feeling?
-Is the tilting height the same as mine, since V6U doesn't have adjustable feet? (Can't see it on RTINGS anymore due to their latest policy change.. Awful). Would be buying a comfy wrist rest thingy, of course.
-I'm going to use it wired only. Can i leave the battery untouched for a while until i see i won't be having issues?. Is there a PROPER VIDEO TUTORIAL WITH THE EXACT KB (or close to similar) to see how it should be done, just in case?
-Would the V6U be better to use in my case than the Q6U due to keycaps size/shape//profile on Q6U could be worse?. I just want a more silent typing feeling with the smoothness of the switches/caps with a similar feeling to mine. The Q6U is alluminium tho, but would that make much of a difference?
-Knowing this'd be an ISO-ES KB, would this keyboard be worth it or should i look elsewhere due to the possible russian roulette QC issues?. I know i could return it if it fails but who knows. The issue is.. There's not good enough / fits my work way KBs out there that has the same needs i want (4 customizable media keys with the PLAY/PAUSE + STOP keys being assigned to such, ISO-ES layout, etc)
Thanks in advance
I wanted to ask if any of you guys have this monitor and if you can do a video or photos of a Youtube vid called "4K Test Monitor Color / Monitor-Farbtest (RGB and CMYK)" to see if your monitors' panel is exactly having the same white/color uniformity issues as of the images above, both in 50% and 100%
The monitor has great colour accuracy on SDR (my kind of use) but the above images are a bit mood killer and wanted to see if other people has the issues too. It's either that or an ASUS XG27ACMES (Even tho it has less DCI-P3 etc..)
(No, no VA due to smearing nor OLED due to burn in in the long run, no matter Tandem etc. Gaming but also productivity in basic-medium art and light video editing)
Specs:
GIGABYTE X870E AORUS PRO X3D
9800X3D
Nvidia GIGABYTE 4070 Super GAMING OC
2x16GB DDR5 6200Mhz
Noctua NH-D15 G2 CB
CORSAIR HX1200i SHIFT 2025
I've been looking for months for a monitor to replace my "going bad" Benq XL2420T (120hz 1080p 24" TN) so i want to go next level
Uses would be A-AAA single player games of ALL KINDS (Music too, Stepmania, DJMAX RESPECT V) and dark games (I know, IPS glow, but my room's mostly lighted up) along basic-medium Adobe Photoshop/illustrator + CLIP STUDIO PAINT + Paint Tool SAI 2, along basic Adobe Premiere
The monitors i've seen so far are the Xiaomi G Pro 27qi 2026 (The new model, do not confuse with the previous , red tint bugged version) and the ASUS XG27ACMES, since there's almost no 24" monitors anymore that are sold in Spain (There's AOC 24" 1440p but there's almost no reviews for it)
The Xiaomi one seems to have the red tint bug fixed. While i'm not going to use HDR nor local dimming, i've noticed in a spanish review (See screenshots below) that while the white colour uniformity is pretty decent, colour uniformity is AWFUL at the top right side (Delta 8 outta 10, aka red hot bad), wich's a big turn off when you work with colours or even gaming (And we're talking Local Dimming OFF)
However the ASUS XG27ACMES seems to tick all the boxes: Almost superb uniformity, has enough Hz for my tastes (240), and barely seems to have IPS glow or any other issue related to the UFO test, etc
But i'd like to know your thoughts, like if there's a better monitor (24" or 27, but not going into 4K territory) while matching my needs
Thanks in advance
Got this
UGREEN Nexode Power Bank 20000mAh 165W with Retractable USB-C Cable
But when plugging the supposed 100W charging "dongle cable" to my Galaxy S26 Ultra, it didn't charged at "blue charging ultra fast" but the "green one", and the screen shown it was charging at like...18W?...When the phone's supposed to be able to charge up to 45W
Is there something wrong?
I wanted to replace my casual CASIO alarm clock to something better etc and with reminders separated from the phone (Room dedicated alarms)
Altho we have an Alexa "speaker" at the dining room, this is half way different, so i have my doubts BEFORE buying one of these:
Can you put an alarm and "name it"?. Like "Alexa, -alarm name- in ## minutes/hours every day" , or create/edit an existing alarm from the screen / phone app (Text, time, days to be repeated, etc). And when that alarm happens will the screen show the alarm's name, hour, and button to delay/"discard-disable FOR THAT DAY ONLY (Like a phone), like, -repeat every day but if i tell you to shut up for today, DO SO"
Can you delay an alarm like "Alexa, delay alarm ## minutes" with the voice?. If so, must i always say "Alexa -command-" or ...?
Been seeing an issue about "The clock/screen won't turn off completely even if i tell him so with the voice". Has that been fixed already?. Or is there a way to program it to stay the hell off from 0:00 to 6:00 (EU 24h format) or with a button to turn it off "and stay that way" until pressed again?
I take it also warns you about stuff you buy from Amazon like the Echo?... Like a notification dot (with a "doo doo" noise) or something and ya say "Alexa, notifications" and it says "Good -day moment-,-name-, one notification, from Amazon Shopping. Today you'll receive 1 package/"product name" ",
Is Prime required to use this device?. What are the non-Prime limitations?
Can ya make the default screen to show:
-Time (24h format)
-Climate (Celsius, and set location)
-Notifications
-News feed?
-Upcoming/next alarm(s)?
Looking to sell these parts but wanted to know how much i should ask for em,please:
ASUS X570 TUF GAMING PLUS
RYZEN 5800X3D
Crucial BALLISTIX DDR4 2x16GB 3200mhz
Noctua NH-U12A Chromax Black
Been using the title's product to clean my earbuds but it's unclear how much time i must wait for the liquid to completely dry up , so i've been waiting for like...30-60mins before using the buds again
Any proper ETA?
It's done by iMartz, altho i'm not sure if i can submit Youtube links here
However, there's something that kinda bothered me to see... Color uniformity is very bad in a corner when using 100%. Not sure if it's unit dependant but... Kinda worse than the red tint for daily use
What do ya think?
Right earbud dropoed its volume down to 50%, so i went to a SAMSUNG tech support and they told me to buy the product in the image and take out the ear wax inside the tiny holes from where the audio comes from (the big output and probably the top one)
Guy even tried to use a liquid spray onto some long black haired brush cleaner and used the brush to clean the areas but now the left ear seems to sound a tad bit worse (not sure if it has the same volume)
I thought they'd do a warranty but nope, "do it yourself first"
So i wanted to ask if the tools above or similar would help me remove the entirety of the wax and pray that it works or if it fails try another method before going there again.
Isopropyl alcohol works better i take?
Buds are like 2 months old. Made in February 7th 2026
I've bought the following a couple of months ago:
-Noctua NF-A14x25 G2 PWM CB for the rear
-Noctua NF-A14x25 G2 Sx2 PWM CB for the front
And back then i had a Noctu NH-U12A CB, replaced by a new NH-D15 G2 CB
Back then i had the following setup:
-Be Quiet! DARK BASE PRO 901
-ASUS X570 TUF GAMING PLUS
-RYZEN 5800X3D
-NH-U12A CB
-32GB DDR4
-CORSAIR RM1200x SHIFT 2023 then actually a HX1200i SHIFT 2025
Before i mounted the NH-U12A everything was all great. Then when mounting it one of the mounting AM4 brackets fell off lightly from the plastic cylinders and grinded over the motherboard and hit some cylinders/condensers/capacitors. Ever since then i heard electricity noises coming from the motherboard and shortly after the fans did some high pitched noises , kinda like a light and low version of a flashbang grenade. IT HAPPENS ON IDLE
Like this (Minus the explosion and, again, lighter and lower) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eCIkubIERIY
So i thought of changing the case's fans and CPU fans speeds (the first 3 Noctuas listed above) down to zero (from 670RPM) using Fan Control and the noise seems to stop, so i thought "Maybe that mobo grind/capacitor hit caused the fans to resonate with them and this noise happens"
So i decided to change the motherboard to a GIGABYTE X870E AORUS PRO X3D, RYZEN 9800X3D, the NH-D15 G2 GB mentioned above, 32GB DDR5 and still using the HX1200i 2025 mentioned above (I wanted an up to date mobo anyways, so nothing to lose). This time the CPU cooler, nor anything else, was installed without hitting anything on the board!!
....And the isssue persists...And even if i remove the Sx2 fans from the front (unscrewed from the holding bay and standing on the ground) the noise seems to still be there!.... HOWEVER sometimes if i stop all the fans and 1-click resume them after they're fully stopped the noise seems to be gone or insanely low and non-ear hurting
I already made sure that the GPU is not the culprit by setting the BIOS' iGPU forced out, save, turn off the PC, remove the GPU and turn on the PC with iGPU via mobo's HDMI and the noise persists, so the GPU is RULED OUT
I tried using my old Be Quiet! SILENT WINGS 4 PWM and the noise seems to not be there but when running at 900-1200RPM my head "inflates" and hurts some, but if i lower them to 500RPM it deflates back to normal
I might be 40 and i have 2 very soft+light tinnitus noises on my ears, but i can detect when something new and more annoying/hurtful is happening. However if i approach to the fans i don't feel the noise to be intensified/louder
Another fact is that the PSU has like "very light sparking sounds" and the motherboard does some sparking cooking sounds from the rear (even without GPU). The fact is that even the X570 before had these noises too!
There are 2 kinds of noises:
-The high pitched one from the fans
-A "riiiing...riiiing" very faint one that even happens when the fans are turned off (Fan Control)
The question is... Why is this high pitched eeeeee sound happening?. Where is it really coming from?. Can it be that the PSU is causing these noises?.. Even with the previous RM1200x SHIFT still does them cooking sounds (Didn't paid attention to the high pitched one tho) and tried to connect the cable to another wall socket without cables on it's sides but nope
And no, putting the PC to another room is not an option
I've noticed that my left bud sounds loud n clear as i want, but the right one sounds lower
ANC activated and deactivated
They never fell off or hit anything
What could be wrong?
I want to replace a very old and discontinued Avermedia EXTREMECAP U3 to something newer and overall better with as much low latency/delay etc and all better specs than mine
Since there is competition nowadays i wanted to ask wich one of the 2 brands (and wich device model) would be fine for my needs:
-1080p and 4K, both 60FPS and above
-As much low latency as possible
-Be able to use a HDMI 2.1 "splitter box" or whatever it's called to record on the PC BUT ALSO play on the TV TOO AT THE SAME TIME (Mandatory)
-Be able to choose capture resolution, Hz, Mbps, and where the files will be saved at once the Stop button is pressed
-Be able to PAUSE a recording then resume it to not add extra wasted time (nature call reasons...)
PC is a GIGABYTE X870E AORUS PRO X3D with a 9800X3D and a 4070 RTX Super so it shouldnt be a prob with USB version and ports
I want to replace a very old and discontinued Avermedia EXTREMECAP U3 to something newer and overall better with as much low latency/delay etc and all better specs than mine
Since there is competition nowadays i wanted to ask wich one of the 2 brands (and wich device model) would be fine for my needs:
-1080p and 4K, both 60FPS and above
-As much low latency as possible
-Be able to use a HDMI 2.1 "splitter box" or whatever it's called to record on the PC BUT ALSO play on the TV TOO AT THE SAME TIME (Mandatory)
-Be able to choose capture resolution, Hz, Mbps, and where the files will be saved at once the Stop button is pressed
-Be able to PAUSE a recording then resume it to not add extra wasted time (nature call reasons...)
PC is a GIGABYTE X870E AORUS PRO X3D with a 9800X3D and a 4070 RTX Super so it shouldnt be a prob with USB version and ports
I've sent a RMA form with the invoice PDT and all like 2-3 days ago but i don't know if i should receive a confirmation e-mail regarding Noctua received the form and that i should wait or if something's wrong
I've typed my e-mail address all in caps so i don't know if that's a reason. Can an admin help me out?
I need to diagnose my motherboard and for that i need to see first if my GPU is the culprit doing some high pitched noises/ringings that are being heard from the tower
I tried to go to BIOS and enable Auto settings on the dGPU or iGPU or something, then save, then turn off the PC and remove the GPU from the PCI-E slot, then connect the HDMI cable from my TV (LG C3) to the motherboard's REAR HDMI port
If i turn on the PC it'll stay checking things like the RAM like forever. But if i turn off the PC and put the GPU back in then it boots normally
I wanted to know what am i doing wrong and how to fix it to diagnose the tower
(Motherboard's brand new btw, 2 days old, but this noise is something i had with my previous mobo but need to re-diagnose the situation again)
