u/UJMRider1961

Seems like so many aftermarket seats tout how "LOW" the seat is.

I know this is aimed at shorter riders, women in particular.

But my problem is the opposite. I'm 6'1" with a 34" inseam. Every seat I have tried (I'm on number 4 now) has just been too low.

Does anybody make a "High" or "thick" seat? Preferably one that would fit the bigger tank (4.5 gal) that is on my XL1200C.

I know I can have one custom made but there aren't any seat makers in my town so it would be a bit of a PITA to go 100 miles to get a seat made at a reputable company.

Also before anyone chimes in with "FORWARD CONTROLS, BROTHER!", yeah that's gonna be a no from me, dog. The bike had factory forwards when I bought it and they were hideous and uncomfortable. Mid controls were literally the first modification I made to the bike. So much better for control and keeping the weight off my spine. I just need to sit up a little higher so my knees aren't under my chin!

After almost 7 years of owning my 2018 F-150 I finally got tired of paying someone else $80+ to change the oil. I change the oil in both of my motorcycles and in our VW bus so I figured the F-150 would be easy.

I watched all the YouTube videos and of course they showed the oil being drained with a plastic plug to drain the oil. I went to AutoZone and bought an extra one just in case I broke the current one taking it off. Pretty much every YT video on how to change the oil shows the yellow or orange plastic drain plug.

Got under the truck, removed the "diaper" and then started looking for the bright orange or yellow plug.

Nope. Nowhere to be found. Eventually I realized that my truck (3.5 EB, Canadian-spec) has a metal oil pan and a conventional bolt (15mm, for those who are getting ready to do their own oil changes.)

Oil and filter have now been changed and as soon as I cool off (it's around 104f/40c here today) I'm going back to Autozone to return the plug I bought.

But I wanted to share just in case there's anybody else getting ready to do their first oil change.

Also, pro-tip: When the oil comes out, it's like a fire hose and splatters everywhere, so hold the drain pan as close to the drain as possible until the pressure drops. That way you'll have less mess to clean up.

I learned that one the hard way. 😉

Trailer is a 2021 Rockwood Geo pro 19 BH. We’ve owned it for a little over two years. Within the last few months I’ve noticed that the freshwater has a distinct sulfur/rotten egg smell and taste.

I did properly winterize in October of last year and de-winterized in April. I’ve run several tanks full of water with 1/2 cup of bleach, let it sit for several hours, then drained and refilled.

This seems to fix the problem in the short term, but in the long-term it comes back.

Question for the group: is this coming from the hot water tank? The reason I’m asking is that in all the years we’ve owned an RV, we have only used hot water once or twice. We normally stay at Campground’s that have showers, so if we want to do showers that’s where we do them.

If this is likely coming from the hot water tank, my inclination would be to bypass the tank and drain it.

Has anyone else with this issue tried this, and did it work?

EDITED TO ADD: we only use the Trailer water to brush teeth and wash hands. That’s pretty much it. Drinking and cooking water we bring in a plastic jug or we drink bottled water.

We have a couple of old Android tablets we got around 2020 so my mom could communicate with my brother who was developmentally disabled and lived in a nursing home. We also got them for the grandkids to use when they were staying with us.

Well, now it's 6 years later, we rarely see the grandkids who are teenagers and have their own lives. My brother and my mom have both passed away.

Wife and I have iPhones and laptop computers. The tablets are Lenovo TAB4 10 PLUS models that seem to be made to use with an AT&T account (we don't have AT&T.)

Android version (I guess that's OS?) is 7.1.1. The tablets seem to work fine and connect to the internet. I'm a little surprised that the OS didn't update but maybe the hardware doesn't support a newer version?

I really don't know anything about Androids, the only smart phones my wife and I have ever had were iPhones (she has a 14 and I have a 16.)

So what are these good for?

This is my shocked face: 🙄

>Dealership insists warranty is void if I go elsewhere for service
by u/hyzer067 in Honda

Wife just asked me to plan a trip to California for May 2027. We are leaving from Southern Colorado and would like to be gone about 3 weeks max.

I'm seeking recommendations for state parks, preferably on or near the coast, from about Santa Barbara North to the Giant Redwoods.

We have a small travel trailer (19' class) and two small to medium sized dogs. While we can camp without hookups, we prefer to at least have electric hookups, particularly when the weather is hot.

Speaking of Weather, I'd always been under the impression that Coastal California is generally pretty cool, especially from San Francisco northward. Is that accurate?

Thanks in advance!

I sell items from my home. I'm not going to drive somewhere and wait for a no-show. But I also don't give out my address until the buyer says they're on their way, that way I don't give it to too many people.

Had a recent interaction where I was selling some items and got a reply from someone who asked for my address so she could put it into her GPS and figure driving time from a town about 90 miles away (keep in mind, this is a cheap, $50 item.)

I gave her a major intersection was two minutes from my home so that should be enough to figure driving time, but then just to help her out I gave her an address of a shopping center that’s located at that major intersection. That would certainly be sufficient for her to plug into her GPS to give her driving time. I told her when she was on her way I would give her the exact address.

She then comes back with “oh, so you don’t want to sell these items huh?“

That was it. Instant block. When someone shows me that they’re going to cop that kind of an attitude, there’s no way I’m going to waste any portion of my day dealing with them.

If I sold items for a living, I might be a little more accommodating. But I don’t. I’m selling something for $50 because I want it out of the house. I’ll donate it to Goodwill or throw it in the fucking trash before I put up with someone’s attitude.

I'm looking to buy a birch upper handguard for my 583-series Mini-14 but I noticed the finished ones are out of stock at Accuracy Systems, but the unfinished ones are not.

Does anyone here know what the finish would be if I wanted to get an unfinished one and finish it myself to match my current wood stock?

I do a lot of woodworking so I feel like finishing a handguard is within my skill set.

And yes I know I could sand down my current birch stock and just stain both the new handguard and the stock the same color for a match, but I'd rather not do that if I don't have to. It doesn't need to be a show-winning match, just a "good enough from a reasonable distance" match.

Thanks in advance!

I know it's not a good idea to try and get statistical information from someplace like Reddit or Facebook, but I've been thinking for a while that the current poor sales climate (according to some of the headlines I've seen) is an example of the "chickens coming home to roost" because of sleazy dealer practices.

When dealers load down new and used vehicle sales with zero-value add ons to increase the price, and roll that into the loan, they put the buyer into a situation where they will never NOT be underwater on their vehicle. 72 month and 84 month loans on cheap used shitbox cars are just insanity.

How many Reddit posts have you seen where someone writes "I bought a [insert name of cheap car] in 2022 for $24,000 and now it needs a new transmission and head gasket and I still owe $16,000 on it, and even if it was in perfect condition, it would only be worth $8000. What do I do?"

Well, good question. No dealer with a lick of sense is going to roll $8k worth of negative equity into a new loan, and even if they did, that would just bury the buyer deeper into a loan that will never be paid off. Short of rolling the car off a cliff and filing a bogus insurance claim, or winning the lottery, I'm not sure what a buyer can do in that situation except maybe declare bankruptcy.

But so many dealers made so much money during the Covid years selling vehicles at way over their actual value, that now their "pool" of potential customers simply can't afford to get another car because they are buried so deep in the rusty shitbox they have now.

I don't really know enough about the car industry to know what happens next, do car manufacturers start cutting back on manufacturing so they don't have vehicles that sit on their lot gathering dust? I'm really not sure how much they can cut price to sell cars when their customers likely can't afford to buy ANY new car at ANY reasonable price.

I'm fortunate to be in a situation where, barring an accident (knock wood!) we likely won't have to buy a new vehicle for several years yet. But I feel for people who NEED a vehicle and have to try and buy in this predatory sales environment.

I'm just wondering if dealers will ever re-think their "zero value add-ons" policy that they seem to have become addicted to (I call them 'zero value' because they cost the dealer nothing since probably only a fraction of a percent of customers actually invoke that "tire warranty", "Battery warranty", "paint protection" or "fabric protection.")

It's a trap! (insert Admiral Ackbar meme here.)

I see a lot of situations where people offer to leave a "deposit" on a high-cost item like a car, motorcycle, big furniture item, etc.

I would strongly advise all sellers not to do this. Here's why:

Once you accept a deposit, you might THINK you've got a sale. But in reality, that's just the starting point for further negotiations.

Let's say you have an old car listed for $5000. Someone says "I want that car but I don't get paid until the end of the month. Can I put a $500 deposit on it now and then pay you at the end of the month?"

You say "sure" and accept the $500, thinking "I'll get the rest of the money in a few weeks."

Well, then the end of the month comes and the buyer says "hey, man, I had that money but then my dog got sick and I had to pay a lot of vet bills so I only have $3000 left. Will you take that? Or just hold on to the deposit and I swear I'll have all the money in 2 weeks."

So 2 more weeks go by and then it's "well, I had to go to the dentist and that used all my money. How about I give you the $3000 and you let me have the car but keep the title and I'll make payments for the rest?" or some such bullshit.

The point is, since you accepted the "deposit", you are now locked into a relationship with this person. Unless you made it explicitly clear (i.e. IN WRITING) that the deposit is non-refundable, or unless you are willing to give the deposit back, you can't really re-list the car. And even if you do, who knows how many sales opportunities you lost in the 3 - 4 weeks since you took the ad down or marked it "sold?" So now you're back at square one.

IMO "deposits" are NEVER a good idea on FBM, nor are "payments."

And I hope this doesn't need saying but unless you live in a place where the license plate stays with the vehicle, REMOVE YOUR LICENSE PLATE before transferring a vehicle. If the seller asks "how am I going to get it home without a plate?" the answer is that in most states it is legal to operate a vehicle without a plate if it was purchased from a private seller, for the purposes of getting it to the buyer's home.

Every time I see a NV-3500 I think about what a cool overlanding platform it would be.

I know there were 4x4 conversions but I can't help but think that Nissan missed out on a great marketing opportunity by not offering a factory 4x4.

I know they're gone now (due to low sales, I presume) but I think it could have been a great opportunity to challenge the likes of the Mercedes Sprinter.

Anyone else agree?

Full disclosure: The only Nissan's I've ever had first hand knowledge of were an R50 Pathfinder which was a great, fun vehicle (mine had the 5 speed and manual 4x4) and my wife's 2011 Altima Coupe, which was fine - she liked it, said it felt like a little sports car to her. I know Altima's have kind of a shit reputation but we never had a single issue in 3 years and we bought the car used.

I only got rid of the Pathy because I needed a vehicle that could pull our travel trailer and I already had a Suburban for that. I loved that little vehicle though! It was peppy and fun and easy to drive and had all the bells and whistles a 2002 car could have.

Just noticed that when I search the Ruger web site, the A-TM folding stock doesn't even show up.

Then when I go to the Samson site, both black and stainless are shown as "out of stock."

Is this common? I was thinking of ordering one last week but now it seems I can't.

Just wondering if this just happens from time to time and eventually they get restocked.

Per the advice I've received here, I need to do a "clean" windows 11 install on my wife's older HP laptop.

I have a couple of questions:

First of all, I did run a Malwarebytes scan on her computer and it showed a bunch of potentially harmful files, which I immediately quarantined. Restarted and ran the scan again and it came back clean.

So, should I try to download the Windows 11 from this computer? Or should I use a different computer so that no infected files could be on the USB drive?

Second, her old computer had Windows 11 home version. I intend to install Windows 11 pro. Will I need a different security key to activate windows? I assume I'll have to pay for this (which I'm OK doing) but will I get the security key if I download the file from a different computer?

Final question: This is an HP and I am assuming all the "proprietary" HP software is going to be wiped when I reinstall the OS. Do I really NEED any of the HP files? I assume at some point I'll need some drivers but doesn't Windows 11 automatically search for drivers when I'm installing something anyway? Or should I try to save some of the HP files? We don't use any of the HP assist programs or anything like that.

I've backed up all her files so I'm ready to reinstall the OS.

Thanks for any assistance!

Computer system: Lower end HP laptop purchased in 2022, running Windows 11 Home edition. Accesses the internet through our (secured) home WiFi.

About 3 months ago my wife noticed some fraudulent charges on her Chase credit card. When we reported it to Chase, they of course cancelled her account and issued a new card.

But then we noticed that the fraudulent charge actually came through PayPal, which she rarely uses.

When we started looking further, she realized that not only had someone gotten her Chase card number, they apparently had access to her account because they cashed in her reward points for gift cards. There was supposed to be an email sent to her email account on Yahoo, but we searched all through the account but never found it.

She has been on the phone with Chase security and they are telling her that somehow her Windows 11 has been compromised.

I followed the YouTube video to check for "hidden" accounts on her computer, and was not able to find any.

We have been running Malwarebytes on our computers which is supposed to run a scan every time the computer powers up. We have not been notified of anything suspicious on Malwarebytes.

So what should I do next? Wife wants me to take it to a computer shop to have them check it out but I'm not convinced they would do anything that I couldn't do at home. Am I wrong? I'm not an "expert" by any means but I've been using computers for 40 years, so I'm not a novice either.

Our first step will be to put 2 factor authentication on any program that accesses email or money. But not sure what steps to take after that.

My first thought was to copy all the data files off her computer (mostly photos) onto an external drive, then do a complete "clean" reinstall of Windows 11 Pro.

Beyond that, we need to make sure that this doesn't happen again, so what programs (other than Malwarebytes) would be good to use?

Thanks in advance!

Looking for some help from people familiary with how VA claims are decided. Please let me know if there's a better subreddit for this..

Currently I have an accepted 10% disability for left knee osteoarthritis. I underwent two surgeries on my left knee while I was in the Army in 1980, and was periodically treated for left knee conditions throughout my service which ended in 2005 when I retired. So the left knee injury was pretty clearly "service connected" based on my medical treatment and once I went through the exam process, my claim was accepted (I kick myself for not filing it a long time ago, but that's water under the bridge.)

However, 10 years after my military service ended, I started developing knee conditions in my RIGHT knee. I believe that at least part of the reason I have right knee injuries is because of my right leg having to compensate for the restricted motion of my left knee.

I used to work in Federal Workers Compensation, and I have accepted claims where an accepted injury for one limb led to an injury to the other limb due to diminished abilities on the injured limb and the non-injured limb having to "compensate" for it. We used a "more likely than not" standard and as long as the MD's opinion was well-reasoned and stated that it was likely that the injury to one limb "caused, exacerbated, aggravated or accelerated" the injury to the other limb, we could accept it as a "consequential injury."

My question is: Does the VA use a similar rationale for accepting consequential injuries? Is "percentage of causation" a factor in VA claims? (The reason I ask is that in Federal Workers comp, it's not. If the Federal job is even 1% responsible for the injury, we "buy" the whole thing. )

Has anyone here had a consequential injury accepted in such a circumstance?

I honestly don't think I really have a shot here, but my wife insists (I don't think she really understands how difficult it is to get a VA claim accepted, she seems to think all I have to do is file a claim and the money will start rolling in.)

Finally, if I were to pursue this, am I right in thinking I need to get a doctor to write a "nexus statement" explaining that the injury to my left knee likely aggravated or accelerated the right knee injury due to diminished use of the left knee and the right knee having to compensate?

Thanks in advance!