I have an icon and a background color, and yet nothing I do makes either appear on the screen. I just get a white rectangle. Surely somewhere there is a working example of how to do this? (There isn't in the Avalona macios repo).
How can I see my ios provisioning profiles that I have locally? Xcode 27.0 doesn't list them under Settings / Accounts. I've managed to create ones with duplicate names and I need to see exactly which certs they are using so I delete the wrong ones. Is there some tool that can do this?
(Plus why does xcode show certs with "created on" whereas every other tool show certs with their expiry date - but I digress).
I have my Avalonia app published on Mac, Windows and Android, and I have it working great on iOS locally, but getting it Store-happy is proving a challenge. Anyone managed this feat?
A bit too Japanese for me to use...
Found my clip of this fabulous machine with its smooth closing mechanism.
I have an older AppleTV (HD, not 4k) in my vacation home and was fine for f1tv last year. However, reading the Supported Devices page I am concerned it might not work this year.
It says it requires "Apple TV 4k", which implies I am SOL, but it also says "Note: Apple TV HD does not support Premium features." which implies I am ok.
So can someone tell me if the non-4k device works this year? Or do I have to hand over $200 for an upgrade?
I have an Avalonia app that ships on Windows, Android and MacOS, on .net 10. All good, the first two I build on Windows/VS and the Mac version with Rider.
I tried to resurrect the iOS flavor (which last built eons ago), only for the build to fail as it requires Xcode 26, which requires two major OS revs for my old Intel Mac Mini and that's not happening.
However, I can build the MacOS version just fine with Xcode 16.2 (despite what the documentation says). Is there any way I can persuade the dotnet build system to let me use an old Xcode for iOS? (Ignoring Store issues).
I use the Podcast app often on my iPhone, and its fine. Was working in my basement so thought I would try the version on the Apple TV, but it's hot garbage. Firstly it has no idea about the podcasts I subscribe to and use on my phone, but worse is the fact there is no scrubbing on the timeline: if you try to use the remote to go back in time in an episode (ie the same action as all of the video apps on ATV), it dumps you out of the current episode and starts the previous one. Who thought that was a good idea?
I was having breakfast before watching today's race about 30 mins behind real-time, and I know enough to avoid Reddit, so I fired up the Apple News app on my iPhone. Immediately, at the top of the first page was a live video feed of the race. I quickly switched away and nothing was spoiled, but wtf Apple? The race had barely started and Apple think I want to immediately watch a live view. No. Hell no.
Copied a total of 78 discs to ISO (with my rotcopy tool posted yesterday): green tags for Perfect (62), blue tags for Errors (12), red tags for Dead (4). I managed to turn two from Dead to Perfect after a careful cleaning (American Werewolf and Casablanca), and yet most others gave more errors after being cleaned than before: weird. Discs with most errors were 300, Star Trek #1 and Matrix Reloaded. (Some box sets not visible).
I've been making bit-perfect ISO files of my optical discs before they get worse (and before I lose any more drives), so I have published the tool I used and its source at https://github.com/amp64/hddvd-sharp/blob/main/rotcopy.md
Maybe someone will find this useful. From the site:
This is a tool designed to copy HD DVD optical discs while allowing for and reporting bit-rot on the copy.
The default mode is --isomode which produces a bit-for-bit ISO file of the disc. If errors are discovered, the missing data is replaced with zeros and a .err file is created which details the sectors that were lost, and which file those sectors were from. (Spoiler alert, it's always the big EVO files, sigh).
Give a directory name for the .iso file to be written, it must exist. The name of the ISO will be based on the volume ID of the optical disc. Any existing .iso files will be left alone, and a numeric suffix added to it (and the .err file), so you can try multiple copies if you like then compare the .err files to see which is the best copy. (Generally speaking the smaller the .err file the better the copy was).
Specifies the source drive e.g. e:\ - if you only have one optical drive it will default to that and you don't need to use this option.
EDIT: to be clear this does not decrypt anything. That is not its purpose right now, I just wanted to have accurate copies of my media. Decryption can maybe come later.
Stapling my MacOS app has never worked, since day one, so what is the point exactly?
I always get "CloudKit query for appname (2/gunk) failed due to "Record not found". Could not find base64 encoded ticket in response for 2/gunk The staple and validate action failed! Error 65.
This has never stopped me running anything or submitting to the Store, so what exactly is the point of this thing
In case anyone is curious, this is the adapter I pulled off my prototype Xbox 360 HD DVD drive that lets you use a regular IDE connection to it instead of whatever the built-in connector is.
I thought I had four Xbox drives, turns out I only have one that works, so time to get a backup. One is DVD-only (ie no blue laser) and two are totally dead (including my ultra-rare black one). So I opened the no-blu one up, and compared it to a drive I found in a drawer. That drive has old firmware (MC05 compared to MC08 on the broken one) and it also has a weird adapter board to expose it as regular IDE. Anyone know about the firmware differences, or whether I stand a chance of just using the drive as-is (I need to find some cables to try it). Are drives "bonded" to these power supplies? I know there are some magic numbers somewhere, for AACS to work, and I recall there were "red" and "green" drives back when I worked on this but that was for Xbox signing, should not effect use on a PC.
I've been using https://github.com/TheDotSource/New-ISOFile which works, but I've started analyzing the UDF structures and I can see it changes them. This doesn't affect the files once its mounted, but it concerns me it's not a direct bit-copy of the optical disc.
Probably quicker for me to write my own now I understand more about UDF, but wondering what folks use for their HD DVD ISOs? (Note I am after bit-perfect ripping, not transcoding or AACS stuff).
They have been removed entirely from https://support.sonos.com/en-us/downloads
So instead, get my apps for Windows and MacOS which work on S1 and S2:
https://apps.microsoft.com/detail/9pj1nl64bqqr?ocid=website&hl=en-US&gl=US
https://apps.apple.com/us/app/phonos-ultimate-for-sonos/id6740011689
