u/miamicuse

Was reading the terms and conditions and didn't see anything that answers this.

Assuming the bill on a restaurant visit is $50 each visit, so if you visit this restaurant three within 180 days from June to December, the total is $150, and Chase will reimburse you $150 and your net payment is $0 right? Or is this a $150 per visit per $180 days so if the bill is $50 on a single visit Chase credits $50 you pay $50 but the remaining credit of $100 is wasted because it is limited to one visit?

I recently did some phone upgrades and got two new phones in the mail, two separate boxes came on different days. Phone A is a lavender Pixel 10a has a return label, phone B is a black Pixel 10a has a return label as well. I wasn't paying attention which label came with which phone because my original plan was to return the trade in phones to the store.

When I used T-Life to do the upgrade, I selected my wife's line and picked the lavender Pixel 10a, entered her Pixel 6's IMEI number, got the $500 trade in approval. After that I did my line, picked the black 10a, entered my Pixel 4a's IMEI number and got the $250 trade in approval. These phones need to be turned in by mail or in store within 30 days of the phone orders.

I assume that the return label that came with the lavender 10a phone is to be used to return the Pixel 6, and the return label that came with the black 10a phone is to be used to return the Pixel 4a, correct? That if I accidentally switched the labels, it will result in a mismatch on the receiving end and cause all kinds of issues. Or do they only see two phones, one 4a and one 6 to be returned under my account? Basically I do not see anything on the label that tells me which phone goes with which label.

I called the store and asked, can I bring in two trade in phones? They said to mail it in, I said the instructions says I can mail it in or return to store, they said even if I return to store they turn around and mail it in, so if you come to the store we will just print you a return label.

So, is there any way from looking at the return label, which one need to be paired with the 4a and which with the 6?

Does anyone who has the 65" QM7K TV, can you share the distance of the bottom VESA mounting holes (holes labeled as "3" and "4" below in the pictures) from the bottom edge of the TV? I kept looking at the specs and went through all the download articles and couldn't find that information. Does anyone know if this information is documented somewhere?

To clarify, I know the 65" the VESA mounting pattern is 300x300, so distance between 1 and 2 is 300mm, and distance between 2 and 4 is 300mm. What I am looking for is the distance from 3 to the bottom edge of the TV.

https://preview.redd.it/qjbv7ze9xxah1.jpg?width=548&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=2cea4ee4ce4ba6fff04955818a16eb475d0ca889

I have two new pixel phones shipped to me by T-mobile on two separate dates (due to different colors one came from Texas and one from Tennessee).

T-mobile says on the order the item requires signature upon delivery.

Day one, I heard a knock on the door and by the time I opened the door the UOS driver has already gotten back on the truck, no signature needed.

Day two, I heard a knock, went to the door and there is the phone again, I saw a neighbor across the street walking back to his house and he waved, no UPS driver in sight, I waved back to neighbor and checked my phone, and yes the delivery photo was his door not mine, driver delivered to 534 instead of 543...and knocked on my neighbors door he saw the mistake and delivered it to my door so all is good.

But if he didn't, how would this be handled if I didn't get the phone but UPS claimed delivery and no signature on delivery? Who ends up with the shirt end of the stick? Me, UPS or T-mobile?

I just upgraded all three lines to Pixel 10a with trade in of two Pixel 4a and one Pixel 6.

I went to the store to pick up one 10a and traded in the 4a, so got that out of the way.

Now I have to turn in another 4a and a 6. Is it better to turn them in at the store or mail them in? I read somewhere the mail in process may take a while and if damaged during shipment could be an issue.

If I do mail them back, should I mail both in one shipping box, or mail them back using two boxes and their respective sticker?

The Pixel 6 I got a trade in value of $500 on the $499 Pixel 10a value so it's a wash.

The 4a I got only $250, so is it too late to hunt for a used Pixel 6 on ebay or is it too late to get the trade in phone changed at this point?

My wife and I both have CSR cards. If we go to an Edit restaurant and the menu is say $250 pp, how would these artsy fartsy restaurants react if I request that we pay our own meal with our own card, so we each get $150 dining credit? Is it frown upon?

I was at a store to pick up a new Pixel 10a and trade in an old Pixel 4a. I did the upgrade on T-Life app already and placed the order so all I needed is a pick up and turn in the 4a.

The staff who helped me checked my ID and order # and asked to see my 4a. I gave it to her and she tried to remove the old SIM card, I said there is no SIM in there, this phone was factory reset this morning and all ready to go. She looked annoyed and asked me "so what are you here for exactly?" I said "to pick up the new phone and turn this one to you and make sure this is acceptable as a trade in". She looked like I was wasting her time, went to the back office and came back with the new phone. I made sure the new phone will power up, and asked her if this phone has been already activated, she said if you paid the $35 fee it's already activated.

She was inspecting the old 4a, and used a flashlight to look into the charging USB-C port. Any idea what she was looking for?

Finally I asked her that I have another phone I am planning to trade in, and if I were to mail it in what is the trade in period? She said 14 days. I said I thought it's 30 days, she said no it's 14 days.

Can someone confirm if the trade in is 14 days or 30 days? I think I saw somewhere says 30 days? But not sure if 30 days starting from receiving the new phone or 30 days from when the new phone is shipped? Why did she say 14 days or is the 14 days when you turn it into the store?

For some reason, if you used the Customize Home Page to modify the device display order, it reverts almost every day, and seems to be whenever the app updates. Anyone experiencing this?

Any chance the pixel 9a $299 deal will be back in stock any time soon?

I am currently on the Magenta Max 55+ plan with 3 lines and trying to upgrade phones.

In the T-Life app all three lines says "Upgrade available", so I selected one of the three lines and select the option "Upgrade your Pixel 6".

If I select the Pixel 10a there are 2 promotions - Get one on us with trade or get up to $250 off with trade (this was $500 off yesterday but today it changed to $250). If I pick Get $250 off with trade, it says I need to be on or switch to a qualifying rate plan. It shows a list of new plan I need to switch to Experience Beyond, Experience More, Essentials or Select a discount plan for customers 55+, military & veterans and first responders. So it still sounds like there is a plan for 55+, I selected that and it asked me if I am military or first responder, there isn't a 55+ selection. Is this a bug or is that saying there isn't a plan for 55+ that will qualify me to upgrade the phones with a trade in?

I don't understand how the trade in values suddenly drops to half compared to yesterday and now I have to switch to a different plan to get upgrades with trade in? Sounds more and more to be it's less of a hassle to just pay for the devices and forget about the upgrades.

When the corded Starlock oscillating tool GOP40-30C came out, I bought it, and it comes with a hard case.

Bosch GOP40-30C

Later on when the cordless GOP18V-28N came out, I bought that too, and over time, I use the cordless version 90% of the time and less and less the corded version. However, I don't have a case for the cordless version.

So I am wondering, could I store the cordless GOP18V-28N into the case for GOP40-30C? The answer is no, whether I put it in top down or sideways.

https://preview.redd.it/mvof9al5jp9h1.jpg?width=768&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=77430d7beff6eb886217ec2eff0fd86b8c9ecc64

https://preview.redd.it/qdym0al5jp9h1.jpg?width=768&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=d2804fc7adddc34b9e5bf004773701d36a656ec1

The lid won't close.

So I am thinking may be I need to modify some of the plastic partitions inside the case to make it work.

https://preview.redd.it/gerrbdxfjp9h1.jpg?width=768&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=c61c1cf1488cd3356388fcacf7390cd30a0bcbaa

Has anyone tried this?

If I have 3 lines and upgrading phones, are the trade in phone values rolled together or is each phone upgrade handled completely separately?

Example, I have 3 lines on the Magenta Max 55+ plan.

Line 1 has a Pixel 4a, upgrading to a Pixel 9a. So the 4a has a $250 trade in value, the 9a cost $299. I owe $49 plus $35 activation.

Line 2 has a Pixel 6, upgrading to a Pixel 9a. If the 6 has a $500 trade in value, and the Pixel 9a is $299, I will have a $201 "surplus" right? Can this $201 be applied to line 1's fees, or is the $201 applied as extra statement credit over 24 months? Or is it just zeroed out?

The answer will dictate how I upgrade and what devices I upgrade to.

When I do the upgrade from the T-Life app, for a specific line, is the phone being used by that line at that time, the brand/model/IMEI captured right then and there? In other words, if I have a working Pixel 4a, I insert that line's SIM into it, and get it working, and use app to upgrade from that phone, correct?

Would like some advice on whether the Mark Cuban Cost Plus pharmacy is a good option for my situation.

I am on Medicare and for Part D I have the Wellcare Value Script (PDP) drug plan. The good part is it has a $0 premium. The bad part is it has a deductible that is quite high, and it's not one deductible, there are different deductibles for different tiers of drugs.

about a year ago I have developed some retinal issues, and have been seeing ophthalmologists, retinal specialists, retinal surgeons, gone through some eye operations and as a result, have to be on different kinds of topical eye drops, some are antibacterial, some to control ocular pressure, some to tame inflammation etc etc etc...and unfortunately, these eye drops are not cheap.

My regular pharmacy is Walgreens. Let's take one specific eye drop which is a tiny bottle of 1.7ml, which lasts about two weeks, and one I think I will need to be on for a long time. This bottle's suggested retail price is $280, with the wellcare plan it is $93, if I ask Walgreens to NOT run it through the insurance let me pay cash it's $65, if I say can you try this GoodRx coupon it's $48, if I subscribe to GoodRx and pay $9.99 a month I can get it at CVS for $38 a bottle, with the CostPlus I see the price is $27. So CostPlus has the best price.

(1) So I called my retinal specialist and asked if they can send the prescription to CostPlus using the electronic Rx, their response was, OK so you want to change your pharmacy from Walgreens to this? I said no...because CostPlus does not have ALL the prescriptions I need, only the two drops that it is cheaper, the others they are not even available. My doctor's office says well, we can't really send different prescriptions to different pharmacies, our system is not set up to do this. They can however issue to me a paper prescription which I can take to different pharmacies but this CostPlus can't fill them by paper, it must be originated from the doctor's office. So I am having an issue to getting it filled electronically for some medications only.

(2) The second issue I foresee, is that these eye drops are in small plastic bottles the size of my thumb, they are being shipped from CostPlus how? Is it just UPS or USPS or FedEx? I am in Florida USA, and if they ship say 2 bottles to me, and they sit in my mail box exposed to the blazing Florida sun for 4 hours, is that OK to use? Some of these solutions said to not to be subjected to heat more than 105 degrees, so I am questioning whether mail delivery works in this case. If I fill it with CVS or Walgreens I know they are not sitting out in the sun in the mail truck for days.

Given all that, I wonder if you all think if Cost Plus is a good idea, or if I should stay with local stores may be use GoodRx.

Thanks in advance for any comment.

I have a question regarding Chase points when used with the Chase portal. It is my understanding that "...you can still redeem points earned prior to October 26, 2025 at the legacy 1.5x rate (1.5 cents per point) through Chase Travel until October 26, 2027"

My wife and I each have a CSR card, in addition I have a CIB card for business expenses.

She is thinking of getting rid of the CSR card due to the diminishing benefits & higher annual fee so she is thinking of transferring all her points to my CSR account.

The question is, when she transfers her points to my account, about 150K points or so, will the points she transferred over retain the 1.5x redemption rate because all those points were earned prior to 10/26/2025 or will they just be 1x because they were transferred into my account because it's "newly" transfer?

In other words, is the provenance of the points earned sticky after a point transfer between family members?

I am on the Magenta Max 55 plan with three lines and was recently told they would give me three free Pixel 10 with trade in on old phones. This is after I said that we were considering switching to ATT because they said they will give us three new phones which they did.

My question is how do they determine what phones we need to trade in? The three phones we are currently on is a Pixel 6, Pixel 4a and a Pixel 3a. However the Pixel 3a is being used because the original Pixel 4a broke (power button is non-responsive).

Are they assuming the phones I would trade in are the phones that were in use at the moment I called them and agree to the trade in? They can certain see the phones & IMEIs that's in use.

Is it possible to change the phones we plan to use for the trade in? I would rather return a 3a and the two 4a, who do I need to talk to to find out what phones I can use for the trade in and whether the promo deal I was given is still valid if I submit different phones?

I am on the M18 platform, currently have no M12 tool at all.

However, I have a project to redo my supply line with PEX-A tubing, and so I bought a used M12 2474-22 M12 ProPex expander kit - used, and it does not come with batteries, so I will need to buy M12 batteries.

I am trying to decide which M12 batteries to get, and right now, I have no plan to get more M12 tools, as soon as the project is done, I will be selling the expander kit with the batteries.

(1) Is there any information somewhere that documents how many joints can be made with one fully charged M12 1.5ah battery, or XC 6.0 battery, 3ah battery?

(2) I am trying to decide if it's better to get one high AH battery versus two lower AH batteries?

(3) The two form factors one is the standard compact battery the other is a rectangular shaped battery. Does the rectangular battery allow the expander tool to stand up on a horizontal surface?

Located in Miami where termites are everywhere...Found circular pattern drywood termite frass on the floor, looking directly above in the ceiling is a pin hole this is being expelled from. Very small hole about 1/16" in diameter, I too a thin gauge #16 wire and inserted it and it goes in at least 3" feeling hollow.

I used a stud finder and determined it should be a wood joist above, so the hollow means the termites have created a void/gallery inside the framing. There is no access above, flat roof with 2X10 joists between ceiling and roof deck.

I have Termidor and Faurus concentrated liquid that I normally use outdoor to treat subterranean termites in a perimeter trench. I also have a can of Termidor foam. I don't think I can use any of these products because there is no way to get this chemical deep into the framing. The form has a plastic cone applicator that is about 1/8" in size, if I just put it up against the hole and let it spray, more than likely it will get past the sheetrock and just horizontally expand out between the bottom of the joist and the back of the rock, but I need it to go into the wood's void areas. Is there some sort of adapter I can attach to the Termidor form applicator to provide me with a needle size tip that I can insert into the hole a few inches to apply the foam?

If not what do you recommend as a good way to deal with this pin hole sized problem?

I have a ceiling fan that is acting up at one of the rentals. Basically the remote no longer works CONSISTENTLY.

There is a 12/2 cable that runs from the single wall switch to the fan, this switch stays ON at all times and a remote is used exclusively to control the fan. However the remote is not controlling the fan/light consistently. In other words,

• the button to turn the light on/off no longer responsive, unless you click it 5-10 times in succession than it works once. It takes many clicks to turn on, and it takes many clicks to turn off.
• the fan has an on/off button, and three speed buttons - LOW MEDIUM HIGH, they all work, but the MEDIUM button no longer works, does not respond.

Now given all that, my immediate conclusion is perhaps the remote has been tossed around or dropped by the tenant and just needs a replacement, but not so fast.

The ceiling fan is a Hampton Bay 44" Midili ceiling fan, sold at the HD:

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Hampton-Bay-Midili-44-in-Indoor-LED-Brushed-Nickel-Dry-Rated-Ceiling-Fan-with-5-Reversible-Blades-Light-Kit-and-Remote-Control-68044/302082763

https://preview.redd.it/aoo8rriqi98h1.jpg?width=768&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=553478a13ccfe09e742a6c89042439d5de37e6ee

This is the fan I have installed at some of my rentals, I think I have 12 of them installed at different properties, and I still have 6 brand new never installed in storage. Since I have new ones, and not all installation needs a remote, if I have a /3 wiring going to the ceiling box I use the wall switch to control fan/light and do away with the remote. So I went to the storage and took two remotes from those fans, however these remote, even being the same model, look different. I assumed the different look is just a design change and they are functionally the same.

Here is a picture of the old remote on top, and the two new remotes I took from brand new fans (although they have been sitting there for a few years).

https://preview.redd.it/mtfwtkh1j98h1.jpg?width=576&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=4d76a4ad492297976aaabf31b81007d3d81cb6a1

I looked at the old remote, inside the battery compartment the dip switches are UP UP UP UP. I looked at the new remote, it is also UP UP UP UP, so I put in a new battery, and tested the new remote.

Fan speeds LOW MEDIUM HIGH works.
Fan ON/OFF works.
Light switch ON/OFF does not work, unless you click it like 20 times or more and it will work once.

hmmm...this is strange, so the remote buttons for the fan works, but the light button is intermittently unresponsive, just like the old remote.

Since I grabbed two new remotes, I immediately swapped the battery onto the second new remote, and it has the same exact problem.

So now in conclusion, all three remotes old and new, the light ON/OFF button does not work consistently, you have to press it many times for it to work once, in the ON or OFF state.

The fan ON/OFF/LOW/MEDIUM/HIGH button work for the new remote, the original remote the MEDIUM button is not responsive.

I decided to switch to a second new battery on the new remote. No difference.

I walked to the ceiling fan, held it high up so it's only 24" or less from the fan, moved to different positions to try and still no improvement.

I turned the wall switch and breaker off for 30 seconds, to see if resetting the power to the fan makes any difference. No difference.

Any idea what the issue is? Highly unlikely the light button on three remotes would exhibit the same problem right?

It can't be a dip switch mismatch because if that is the case the remote won't work at all right?

Should I go to the storage and opened the rest of the ceiling fans and take 4 more remotes to try? Or is the issue more likely on the receiver end?

Anything else to try?