u/minimal-camera

I'm currently using the Shaaf 400 / 1000 diamond plate, and I like it quite a bit. I've read that this style of diamond plate maxes out around 1200, and I'm hoping to get to 8000+. I sharpen chisels, hand planes, and kitchen knives.

I would prefer to keep the sharpening workflow largely the same - just add a bit of water and go.

I've found this, is this the right move?

Shapton RockStar 8000 Grit

If so, is the $30 steel case just for decoration, or does that serve a purpose to protect the stone? Will I be able to mount that stone in my same Shaaf base (which looks like this)?

Open to other recommendations too, thank you!

Edit: for fun, when looking into this stuff I came across my own post from 3 years ago asking about how to get started in sharpening :)
https://www.reddit.com/r/handtools/s/t6YJAnm4bj

I'm researching the Tonverk (yet again) and the primary instrument it would replace in my current setup is the Blackbox MK1. The overlap between them includes multisampling, sequencing, and effects processing. The Tonverk is an upgrade in all of these categories, at least on paper.

However, I recently learned of the Tonverk's max recording length of 6 mins 6 secs. That feels very short compared to how I often use the Blackbox, to record 10-20 minute improv sessions. From what I've read, I can still play longer recordings from the Tonverk (up to ~45 mins?), but I would have to load them via USB or SD card. An inconvenience, but workable. This has me thinking about other downsides and ways that my current workflow might suffer.

Lack of USB MIDI Host is another area in which the Tonverk falls short, I really hope this comes in a future firmware update because it is so useful, but the better front panel UI helps make MIDI controllers less of a necessity.

The primary reason I’m interested in the Tonwerk is for its potential as a song arrangement device. My playing style has evolved into a lot of swimmy, distorted, ambient wash type sounds (shoegaze on synths), in which I’m processing a synth through pedals and recording the output. I’m also starting to use audio loopers for sound-on-sound Frippertronics style looping, and those sessions tend to be on the longer side (~10 mins). My goal is to load multiple of these types of recordings into the Tonverk and then use the Tonverk to arrange those recordings into a piece of music, by layering them, fading parts in and out, isolating a loop out of a longer recording, and so on. I also expect to do further processing through the internal effects, and resampling through external pedals. Resampling through an external audio looper might also be interesting? The Blackbox can do all of these things, but I’ve just found it somewhat uninspiring to work on, partly due to the UI, partly due to my distaste for the 1010 sequencer, and partly due to the hassle of constantly switching between 1/4” and 1/8” cables and adapters (a dumb reason, but friction is friction). I’ve tried using the Blackbox as a stand-along song arranger, and it just doesn’t work very well for that.

I’ve read that a lot of people are using the Tonverk mostly as a synth, and I’ll say that while I’m sure I would do that sometimes, it is of less interest to me, as I already have plenty of synths (Syntakt, Digitone Keys, and Reface DX being my top 3). The Blackbox is already a capable multisampler (it can play up to 3 or 4 multisampled instruments simultaneously), plus it has a basic granular engine, and slicing, both of which I pretty much never use. Wavetable also doesn’t interest me all that much, from what I’ve heard it sounds OK, but I’m not that inspired by it. If Tonverk has an FM engine, that would catch my interest a lot more.

I’m curious to hear from anyone else who has also followed this path, replacing the Blackbox with the Tonverk. How has it gone for you? Anything you miss about the Blackbox, or any other regrets or gripes with the Tonverk? Has the workflow felt like an overall improvement?

I'm a fan of Elektron (current owner of Syntakt, Digitone Keys, and Model:Samples). I'm also a fan of pedals, and I've amassed a decent collection so far, including some heavy hitters like Chroma Console, Zoia, and Sloer. I like experimenting with customizing effects, trying different effects routing, etc. When I perform live (very rarely), I also like using hands-on effects as part of the performance (Chroma and Sloer are both great for this, and Melee is another favorite). The genres I play are mostly ambient, shoegaze-inspired, and with some sprinkling in of IDM and other electronica. I'm comfortable with the Elektron song mode and use it frequently on the Syntakt, and with the Digitone Keys and other synths I typically stick with improv or looping. I'm currently in a bit of a sound-on-sound frippertronics style looping phase, and for that I'm either using the Zoia or the Keeley Eccos.

I'm tempted by the Tonverk because in theory it could replace a lot of pedals and combine the experience of sequencing, arrangement, improv, and pedal experimentation into a single box. I currently use the 1010 Blackbox and Bluebox as studio utilities - I'll use the Blackbox as a multisample player (most often for acoustic piano), and the Bluebox as a recorder and effects processor. If I got the Tonverk, I would likely sell both of those, plus some other pedals or synths, to help cover the cost.

So my question to you - do the effects and routing options in the Tonverk actually replace external pedals for you? Do the quality of the effects actually stand up against boutique pedals like the Zoia and Chroma Console?

Conversely, if you use your Tonverk with external pedals, what does that workflow look like? Do you resample through the pedals and then finish the song in the Tonverk solo, or do the pedals become part of the performance?

I need to replace the rear window on a 2021 Model 3, it has a large crack that has recently been growing (because of the summer heat I'm guessing?). With previous cars I've always gone through Safelite for glass replacements, and it's been a good experience. Should I go through Safelite again, or try Tesla Support? Tesla mobile support would be fine if they can handle this, but my nearest service center is a 5 hour round trip drive, so I would rather avoid that if I can.

Just something I've been pondering lately: signature pedals (in which a pedal gets some famous player's name attached to it, or was created 'for' them or in collaboration with them in some capacity) - are they desirable, or just a gimmick?

The specific pedals that are top of mind for me are:

• Walrus Audio Qi Etheralizer - Yvette Young
• Endorphines Ghost - Andrew Huang
• OBNE Parting - Emily Hopkins

I know there's many others as well. The only one I own is the RAW DAWG by MXR (Eric Gales). I found that one in a pedal store and just liked the sound of it, at the time I hadn't heard of the artist, so I didn't know it was a signature pedal when I bought it.

I've found myself thinking 'I like the sound of this, but do I really want so-and-so's name on my pedal board?' There's a part of me that just grates against this type of branding, and it makes it feel more difficult to judge the pedal on its own merits.

Howdy, I'm currently building a Sound on Sound Looper / Frippertronics patch from scratch. I'm mostly taking inspiration from the patch Loophole, which is fantastic. I've looked into that patch to try to reverse engineer it, but currently its operating at a level of complexity that is well beyond my comprehension, so I found it was simpler to start from scratch and try to learn the how and why of everything step by step.

Before getting into the specifics of what I'm working on, I was curious to have a discussion about these types of patches in general. Have you made one? What worked well, or what didn't work? Is the 'Looper' module actually useful, or is the 'Delay Line into VCA' approach the best way to get loops that fade out over time? Anything you've wanted to create in a patch like this and haven't been able to figure out?

Budget: $500ish would be ideal in the short term, but would consider higher in the long term. Budget can be increased by a few hundred by selling some stuff, more on that below.

Country: USA

Condition: New or Used, I typically buy used or wait for fire sales

Currently owned cameras:

M43 - Lumix GX85, Lumix G85, Olympus EPL2

APS-C - Nikon D200, Canon 80D, Canon SL1

35mm - Nikon F, Asahi Pentax Spotmatic,Pentax IQZoom 120, Pentax K1000

Currently owned lenses:

M43 - Lumix 14-140mm II, Lumix 14mm f2.5, Lumix 12-60mm, Brightenstar 35mm f1.7

APS-C - Canon 17-55mm f2.8 EF-S, Canon 55-250mm EF-S, Canon 24mm f2.8 EF-S

Full Frame / 35mm - Nikkor 28-105mm, Nikkor 180mm f2.5 ED, Nikkor 50mm f1.4 (too old to work on the D200), Nikkor 24mm f2.8, Minolta Rokkor 50mm f1.4, Minolta Celtic 28mm f2.8, nearly full set of Pentax Asahi Super Takumar lenses

Intended use: Hybrid, but primarily still photography

End use: Fun, hobby, travel. I've done paid work in the past, but don't currently.

If photography: travel photography, bit of street

If video what style: travel, recording family memories

What features do you absolutely need: EVF / OVF, and I like rangefinders too. Focus peaking in digital cameras

What features would be nice to have: improved low light capabilities, and I prefer flip out screens to articulating screens. I also prefer mechanical focusing lenses, I dislike 'fly by wire' focusing. Better AF would be nice to have, but not critical as I mostly shoot manual lenses. USB-C charging in-camera is also very nice to have.

Portability: As portable as possible, small camera bag, airplane 'personal item'

Cameras you're considering: Lumix S5, G9, G9II, Canon 5D, Nikon D700, Pentax 17. I would consider smaller cameras too, but haven't found anything that really competes with the GX85 on size (at least not without significant compromises). I understand the cameras I'm considering are all likely too large for travel as compared to my GX85, which is partly why I'm having a hard time making a decision. The Pentax 17 is appealing though, and does compare to the GX85 in size, but of course it's far more limited as a half frame 35mm.

Cameras you already have: 80D feels a bit large for travel, and has video limitations. GX85 and G85 are excellent for travel and video and most photography, but weak in low light. D200 is definitely too big for travel, but I love its vibe. Nikon F is too heavy for travel, but excellent for self defense. Asahi Pentax Spotmatic is a great size for travel, but I take the Pentax point and shoot more often because it actually fits in my pocket, and is much faster to use.

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I've been an avid photographer and videographer for 20 years, I'm not new to this. I'm comfortable in the genres I work in, which are primarily travel, street, and family / daily life. I tend to prefer telephoto lenses, or standard lenses with a close minimum focusing distance. At home I mostly use primes, while traveling I mostly use zooms.

Short term goal: I’ve got a trip to Europe coming up, and I’m taking a full survey of the gear I’ve got and deciding what to bring. Typically I travel in a more minimalist fashion with the GX85 / 14-140mm lens (and some primes) and Pentax IQZoom 120, and that kit will work fine for this trip. However, I have a weak point when it comes to low light building interiors, like cathedrals and museums (assuming no flash is allowed), as well as blue hour. The best I can do in these situations is to mount a vintage prime, something like a 50mm f1.4, on the GX85. Then I’m shooting a building interior with a 100mm full frame equivalent lens, which presents different challenges, and often I want something wider.

Long term goal: I also have a general desire to simplify my kit. I’m fine with owning a collection of vintage gear, and I like the idea of having particular camera + lens combos for specific things. For example, my Nikon D200 and Nikkor 180mm lens are a pair that I use often for hiking and nature shoots, they are great for that, but too big for travel. I’m not necessarily chasing ‘one camera to do it all’, I’ve been down that path and now realize it’s a fallacy. I prefer the approach of ‘the right tool for the job’, though of course travel situations present a wide array of challenges.

I’m considering selling off all of my Canon gear. The main reason I’ve held onto it for this long is sentimental attachment – I pretty much learned photography and videography on the SL1, shot it for almost 10 years and built the foundation of my portfolio on it. Then I got the 80D and started getting more professional results, but also more clinical and boring results too, but I've kept is as its my highest resolution sensor, and the 17-55mm lens is great for professional work. It’s a great workhorse of a camera, pairs beautifully with the Canon 17-55mm, but ultimately I never felt a strong emotional connection to it, so it’s the easiest one to let go. Unfortunately none of these have terribly high resale value, so they don’t help my budget all that much.

The G85 I currently use as my A cam for video, and it’s great for that, but I don’t like it as much for still photography. I’m open to selling it if whatever new camera I get replaces it as my video A cam. That’s what led me to start looking at cameras with strong video performance such as the S5 and G9II.

I highly value cameras that represent something special, a particular combination of specs and features that result in a true gem. This is where the Canon 5D and Nikon D700 sit in the lineup, both cameras just have gorgeous renderings straight out of camera, plus excellent lens ecosystems. Both probably don’t fit my desire for minimalist travel though, and they don’t shoot video either. Also, I’ve never owned a full frame digital camera, but I do have plenty of full frame vintage lenses that I would adapt to these bodies.

I’m trying to take a macroscopic look at all of this and decide which path makes sense:

1. Sell all APS-C Canon gear, invest in higher tier M43 lenses to get the most out of the GX85 and G85, possibly upgrading the G85 to something like the G9 or G9II in the future.
2. Sell all APS-C Canon gear, buy a vintage full frame camera like the 5D or D700. Enjoy shooting vintage lenses, at the expense of size and weight. Carry a separate M43 camera for video.
3. Sell all APS-C Canon gear and Lumix G85, buy a modern full frame like the Lumix S5 or Nikon Zf. Enjoy vintage lenses for now, invest in a modern video-centric zoom lens in the future.
4. Something else I haven’t considered…

If you've made it this far, thank you for reading, I know this is a lot. It's helpful to brain dump all this into one place.

I had previously written off the G9II as being too expensive, but the current best buy sale for $1300 with the 12-60mm lens has me reconsidering.

My main camera is the GX85, and I have no interest in replacing it. However, I also have the G85, which I primarily use for video, or if I want to shoot with a larger telephoto lens (typically a heavy adapted vintage lens, not something M43 native). The grip on the G85 is far more comfortable for heavy lenses, and the video features are a nice bonus.

My favorite M43 native lens is the 14-140mm Power OIS II, it's just such a gem and great all-rounder. I like it equally well on the GX85 and G85. However, I've noticed it has a weakness for low light portraits, such as for a kids school production.

Excluding everything else that could be compared about the cameras, I'm wondering if the G9II offers any advantage in this specific situation, with the same 14-140mm lens. I'm guessing the answer is no since the sensor sizes are the same, but I'm curious what the real world results might be.

I had previously written off the G9II as being too expensive, but the current best buy sale for $1300 with the 12-60mm lens has me reconsidering.

My main camera is the GX85, and I have no interest in replacing it. However, I also have the G85, which I primarily use for video, or if I want to shoot with a larger telephoto lens (typically a heavy adapted vintage lens, not something M43 native). The grip on the G85 is far more comfortable for heavy lenses, and the video features are a nice bonus.

My favorite M43 native lens is the 14-140mm Power OIS II, it's just such a gem and great all-rounder. I like it equally well on the GX85 and G85. However, I've noticed it has a weakness for low light portraits, such as for a kids school production.

Excluding everything else that could be compared about the cameras, I'm wondering if the G9II offers any advantage in this specific situation, with the same 14-140mm lens. I'm guessing the answer is no since the sensor sizes are the same, but I'm curious what the real world results might be.