Been burned by a couple other shitty mics that never connected right. Anyone have a tried and true method for an external one that can work with my creator edition? Thanks!
For context I had an AP2 s2000 which was recently totaled out for a not at fault accident. I’ve been in a few miatas, a couple of street spec E90 M3s, the s2000 so now I’m looking for the goldilocks car that (in no particular order) I can:
Enjoy driving / pushing it on backroads
Take it on trips along the coast with my fiance
Track casually and not break my wallet (6 track days a year + some autoX)
Occasionally take it in to work and back (50 mile commute)
My preference are the following:
Budget ~$30,000 - ~$35,000
Must be manual, real wheel drive with an LSD
Power: 250 HP+ is preferred (need to be able to keep up with traffic)
Something newer (tired of 20 year old cars)
Deep aftermarket support & support from the OEM for spare parts
I have been spoiled by lightweight cars (miata, S2000) so weight management is something thats important to me
Been spoiled with double wishbone as well (never modded a macpherson strut car) so handling characteristics are important to me
My preference is N.A. but I could go forced induction for the right car
Reliability is obviously important unless there are well documented fixes & approaches
Does this type of vehicle exist?
Got quoted a 7.1% APR on a 30 year fixed from my credit union
Or
7 year ARM at 5.85% then whatever rates are at year + plus a spread, with the option to refi at any time.
I’m liking the ARM because I can afford to pay the Fixed rate but plan on investing the $300 difference into principal to cut down on the mortgage balance and taking a bet on rates on the back end.
In this high rate environment he says he’s doing 90% ARMs these days. Anyone here choosing an ARM over FRM? Thanks!!
What’s up guys, I finally crossed 200k in my 3G4R and wanted to share an a raw ownership review / update on how it’s been.
Funny enough right after filming this my driveshaft went out (weights apparently came off and it was super imbalanced with a crazy noise at speed). But other than that the truck has been rock solid reliable!
Hoping this helps other people down the line to better understand what it’s like living with a 200k mile 26 year old rig! Nothing but smiles from me here :)
Onward to 300k!!
Was looking for the fastest, low ingredient fuel to get me thru the week. Company pays for lunch so I’m settled there. Any other 3 ingredient meals you suggest to rotate in that don’t cause too much clean up or peeper?
As the title suggests I was able to fit my rear OEM wheels in the front to run a factory squared set up on stock dampers & swift lowering springs. You will need the following:
- Bore out your rear OEM wheels to -72mm at a machine shop, cost me $80 per wheel
- Purchase and install mustang steering rack limiters onto your inner tie rod
- 3mm spacer for extra security
- Optional but with my swift springs I was able to get -2.5 degrees of front camber which I’m sure helped a lot
Test fit, use tape on the upper control arms and take it for a spirited drive. You should not have any rubbing on the shock collar, fender or the UCA.
I did this because I wanted an OEM+ set up and wasn’t 100% locked in on a set of wheels yet. Hope this helps, wish I had this guide when I went thru the trials and tribulations of getting this to work.
What’s up guys you might remember me from the good ol days of tearing it up with my yellow NB. In efforts to answer the age old question (miata or s2000?) I put my money where my mouth is and purchased an S2000 and made a lap time comparison video of my otherwise stock AP2 S2K and my prepped NB2.
Both cars did a 2:09.X, the s2K easily had a 2:08 in it had I not fudged the lap at the green, whereas I dont think the Miata would have been able to drop another second without aero or stickier tires.
I think the takeaway here is that the 2:09 marked the floor for the s2000 in stock form, whereas the 2:09 in the miata marked the ceiling even with all the mods. Note: I am not a perfect driver nor am I a professional! Just dude who likes to drive! Let me know thoughts!
Unknown miles on the park plugs. Mix of city and highway driving
Long story short, some jack ass ran a red light, in order to not get tBoned we swerved and hit a pole. The floor mount to the pole tore a hole in my frame rail and my subframe among other parts. Will the car ever be the same again? Unibody car btw - are these even considered “frame rails” still?
I was driving my car on a protected left hand turn into my apartment complex, the protected left hand turn signal light was green
At the opposing red light, vehicle B ran the red and almost T boned me while making my protected turn
Instead of having vehicle B T-bone me, I swerved out of way of harm which resulted in me running into a curb and ended up hitting a city cross walk pole which destroyed my bumper, and tore a hole in my subframe and a large gash through my frame rail
The driver of vehicle B stopped after I chased him down a bit on foot and we all waited for police to arrive on scene to give their statement and mine. There was no car to car contact, a police report has been filed with witnesses on scene. Police did not immediately find driver B at fault due to no car to car contact.
There is no direct traffic camera, but at my apartment there are some distant security cameras that might have caught the incident on camera in the intersection. I am following up with them today to pull the footage.
This was a 3rd weekend car for us, hence no collision insurance.
What are my options as of right now and what is the most likely outcome with insurance?
Modded first gen taco or OEM+ 3rd gen 4R
Needed something that was better for city living so we went with the CX50 > CX5. Got an amazing deal and paid MSRP out the door.
Pictured are my R10 Pads & the front rotors they were riding on. I initially bed these rotors in with the R10s, did 2 track days then after the insane street noise, switched over to the GLOC street compound for a few weeks and did a pad slap (no needing procedure) back onto the R10s the night before my track day last Saturday.
The only way I can describe my brake feeling at the track "no bite" and "concrete rubbing against concrete".
Can someone point me in the direction of where I went wrong? Should I have bed these in the day before the track day? Per GLOC website, I don’t need to “turn” the rotors or resurface them if it’s with the same brand but it’s evident there is some pad deposit present. Are these pads ruined? Should I scuff the rotors and rebed again? What should the protocol be for switching between street & track pads? Thanks in advance all.
Just laid my ECSs down to rest. Did 3 track days with em + 4,000 miles of driving to and from the track, road trips and a few parking lot donuts 😅.
Picked these up as an honest set of tires for my new to me s2000 and they did great! I set a 2:09 at Thunderhill east on an s2K on lowering springs and probably could have done more events on them had it not been for criminal understeer due to the 215 / 245 stagger from the factory.
They started to mildly chunk after call it 20 heat laps, and by the end of the day last weekend were essentially bricks I would just slide on all over. The sidewall flex is ridiculous as well, these things roll over on turns.
I have a squared 8.5 set up now, halfway thru thinking of buying another set or perhaps dabbling with some Yoko V601s in 245 squared as a marginal step up given my pace & what I demand from the tires. Any thoughts on tire choice for low grip / fun / driving?
Like the title says, gas keeps coming out of the cap, I recently wiped the bumper down and replaced the OE cap with a new one from Autozone and it’s still spilling. Anyone know a solution here??
Hey all, new to the s2K ecosystem (just got my car in January). After completing 2 events in my stock suspension, I think it’s time I make the investment in a good set of suspension as the stock set up is holding me back (both in terms of time but also alignments)
I have some criteria below that I’d love to discuss with everyone and would love some pointers/ suggestions on. My ideal criteria are below:
- Must be one way adjustable
- Preference for digressive valving (linear is ok if tuned for the chassis)
- Must must be tuned for the s2K chassis, can’t be a generic set
- Minimum 10k squared springs
- At or around the $2,000 rage.. still need to budget another $500/600 for alignment & front sway bar :)
I think this combo should set me (or anyone else) up decently well to have a good livable set of suspension that can perform on the track and be very livable on the street.
I was thinking some mix of HKS Hypermax S / Riaction GP 1 / S3 Street & Track and at the top end.. Annex ClubSpec.
Those who do decent track work, please share your thoughts and apologies for spam if you see this cross posted!
Mothers R3 spray on first to get the surface rubber off, then use the turtle wax after to get stuff that’s been caked on that the spray won’t take off. Lifesaver & highly recommend instead of using brake cleaner like I did 2 years ago after my first track day (whoops)