u/Bigheaded_1

I'm buying one for a friend, I want to get extra bottles for each oil. The AF ones are $13 each. I see lots of similar 120ml bottles on Amazon for about 1/8th the price. But I don't want to buy a 10 pack only to have them not fit. I watched a video on the AF and the bottles screw in, so if the threads aren't the same they won't work. I'm buying her 8 oils and buying 8 bottles at $13 each when I see 15 packs for $20 ain't happening.

I'm hoping someone has this diffuser and knows of another bottle that fits. $13 for an empty plastic bottle is way too expensive.

I'm interested in getting 1 of these. I have a female friend who has one and she told me the scent doesn't all that long and she ends up having to pour the melted wax out to get the scent to return. Of course she can't tell me how long is "not all that long" So I'm wondering if others have a similar experience. She's using Bath & Body Work candles if that helps.

I'm wondering if this is legit or if she's just being a little dramatic and you don't actually have to pour wax out often to keep the smell alive. I Googled reviews and nothing I found mentions anything about this, it seems if this was a thing somebody else would have mentioned it. But it seems to be a big grip of her so I'm curious what others have to say.

I've been getting birthday "offers" from stores I go to. Some are wild "you get a free small fry with any $20 purchase" I got a 5% off code for food (lol) I got a free size upgrade - where I have to buy a combo meal, and only get a .50 cent upgrade. Most are either something laughably small, or require you to spend $20+ to get something that's maybe worth a few bucks. Some are almost offensive, I understand they're losing money by giving something away, but if it's gonna be an item worth almost nothing and require the person to buy a bunch of stuff to get it. Just don't even offer it lol.

AMC gives you a drink and popcorn with no purchase required. And they're large on top of that. Pretty sure if this was Jack In The Box, they'd be offering a "free" kiddie fry with purchase of 4 $8 burgers.

My GF isn't a fan of having a room full of speakers and equipment, but she likes how the Sony Theater Quad looks. I'd love a full AV/speaker setup, but she's on board with the Quads, and I know it's one of the better AIO solutions.

Here's my issue, I do a lot of music listening with headphones, and she will be doing some too. Since there's no way headphone jack on the Quad's box. I was thinking of getting a Wiim Ultra, but I read up and see they don't support Airplay 2. What would be good hardware to buy so we can use headphones and access Apple Music directly on the TV? I know there a lot of streamers that have Airplay, but it would be nice to not have to use a phone or tablet and be able to control Apple Music on the TV with a remote. We have an Apple TV, but that still leaves us without a way to listen with headphones.

She's not very tech savvy, so the simpler the better. I do plan to get a universal remote eventually to automate this. But right now I'm not seeing anything that looks worth buying that's not $1k+.

The TV has HDMI & optical, since I don't need an amp or anything super fancy, I'm trying to keep it close to $700.

I don't go to Georges much, I went in early July and the indoor section was closed for remodeling. I went back 3 weeks later it was still closed. I went 2 days ago, and it was reopened. The only thing that looked different was that there was a blue bench seat. I think all the seats were burgundy before. But I could be wrong. The other benches still have rips and the tables are the same and were untouched. I'm wondering if maybe they just put the remodel on pause. Because this just looks like an older version of how it looked when I was in high school. And that was 92.

I don't know what I expected from this remodel, but if I didn't know it had been closed for remodeling, I wouldn't have known shit when I walked in. The fact it was closed for at least a month and there's no change is damn wild.

I know they give big ass portions. But I paid $23 for a grilled Pastrami sandwich with fries and a drink. And it's busy when I go. So I believe they should be able to afford to actually remodel it. While it's somewhat charming it still reminds me of high school. It's in dire need of change.

I thought this was mandatory for all companies to do. My first donation there was eairler the year. They didn't take any blood, I was 40 donations in, which was almost 5 months. And they never took blood. I read something on Google that they don't take vials of blood but do something where they test the plasma.

How exactly does it work?

I've been donating at CSL, and I was recently cleared on Octapharma's end to return. I called earlier today, and actually got someone on the phone which never happens. I've tried twice to call back to verify with someone else with no luck so I thought I would ask here.

I told the technician I spoke to on the phone that I donated with CSL last week. He asked what days, I said Wednesday and Friday he said I was good to come in tomorrow.

I thought there was a mandatory seven day. Wait when switching companies is this not the case with Octapharma? I doubt I'll be able to get someone on the phone. to go there tomorrow to find out, he gave me bad information. I'd assume he knows what he's talking about. I see online says you required to wait seven days after your last donation.

I Googled this and didn't see anything that gave a process. I'm running 21.3 and all my movies were scrapped in TMM. I want start using MIF since this is the future for Kodi. I don't want to re-scrape anything, I spent way to many hours hours picking thru movie posters and different fanart to get what I have. I'm looking for something that will automatically create folders for each movie in my MIF directory and copy everything minus the actual movie files from my current directories to it. Each movie is in a seperate directory. I tried Artwork Organizer, but it doesn't create folders for each movie. And I looked thru the features and don't see that option. I also installed Artwork Dump, but it doesn't looks like it do what I'm trying to do. And I'd rather not run it and possibly screw up all the work I've invested.

I thought about just doing it manually, but I have 400 movies and that would take a stupid amount of time. I know there has to be a way to automate this, I'm just too stupid to figure out how apparently lol.

I'm speaker shopping, I'm leaning towards Polk Reserve. My room's only 10x12 so I wasn't even looking at the towers. But I found someone local selling R700s, these would be complete overkill and look pretty comical in this small room. But I can get them for $200 more than the R200's I was really eyeballing. So I'm wondering if any owners can comment on how they sound at lower night listening volumes.

I Googled this and Google's AI claims:

On Reddit communities like r/audiophile, users generally agree that the Polk Audio Reserve R700 performs surprisingly well at lower volumes, maintaining a full and robust soundstage.

I Googled for Reddit threads and didn't see much directly about lower volumes. And I know AI will sometimes make claims based on a single random comment they found lol.

I understand my room's not ideal for speakers these ginormous, but since I can get them for a few hundred more than the R200s. I'm curious how they would sound for normal not wake up the rest of the house at night listening. Even tho they're huge, I don't mind how big they'll be. But if they're going to sound worse at low volumes than the R200s being able to get them for pretty cheap would not be appealing.

If they work well at lower volumes, this should make no difference at low volumes. But I have the Yamaha A2A, RZ30 & X1800h in my cart. I haven't quite decided on which to get yet. I'll also be getting R100's for rears, R900s and an R300.

I thought this might be a better subreddit to ask about DV than the Windows specific one. My Monitor doesn't support DV, but I just wan to get it working on my TV for Kodi. Here's my setup

Windows 11 with all updates Nvidia 5070 OC with latest Nvidia drivers. Hisense U7SG

I tried what I found on Google - Installing Dolby Vision and the HEVC apps from the MS store. I went in Dolby Access and installed the DV extension. It says it's ready to use. In my display properties, there's nothing about DV, even something grayed out. I clicked on HDR and went in and don't see any DV options.

On my TV's settings for the HDMI port my PC's hooked to I have Dolby Vision PC enabled. And if I go into picture settings the picture mode says Dolby Vision. I rebooted both the PC and the TV.

I don't know how to verify if the TV's displaying DV or not. But since I don't see any DV options in Windows 11 display properties. I don't think the PC's passing a DV signal. My brain's telling me if there's no option on the PC then the TV isn't getting DV. When I click on advanced display it says "HDR certification Dolby Vision"

I was thinking it could be the HDMI cable (10ft Amazon Basic) but the TV's running @ 4k/120hz, if it's fast enough for that it should be good to send DV.

Right now I'm not trying to game, I ripped a lot of my Blurays and would love to watch them on Kodi. My previous TV was an 8'ish year old LG. So even with DV off on the TV it looks 10x better than the LG. So I can't watch something in DV and be able to tell if it's enabled or not.

My previous TV was an LG I bought maybe 8 years ago, it was a upper mid level back then. So by todays standards - not very good at all. I haven't spent any time with any newer/better TVs in those 8 years.

I've never owned anything Hisense, but a few weeks in I love this TV. I know Redditors are always preaching you shouldn't buy anything but OLED. This was $300 cheaper than an 55" LG B5, and without seeing 1 in person. I understand the LG's OLED, and better, I doubt it's $300 superior. That's 25% more $$$.

This TV's bright, with vibrant colors and excellent black levels. They're not OLED black sure. But my old TV had what I'd call gray levels. Blacks looked pretty damn terrible on it, and that was a $1700 tv. The sound is better than I expected, I'll never run a TV without at least a sound bar. But, with no soundbar or HT setup. This would be passable for folks who just need something that has some volume. It gets pretty loud without distortion.

I think for $599 this is a pretty insane deal. Again, I've never seen an OLED outside of strolling past a display model at Best Buy. But they can't look that much better. I ran a dead pixel check and the panel was flawless. I also really like the semi matte screen coating, whatever Hisense calls it. The colors still pop, and I don't see reflections. Also all the HDMI's being 2.1 is solid.

While I'm not a fan of Google TV, it's worlds better than Tizen and FireTV. And after a few weeks with it, it's not nearly as bad as I thought it would be.

I know there are a decent number of "Hisense are the worst TVs ever! They will break after 6 months!" people on Reddit. I can't comment on that. But, the reviews on Amazon and Best Buy are good, and if these TVs were dying like people on here claim. All these people who were buying these tv's that were dying would definitely be leaving bad reviews. So I think like any brand, there will be some lemons. Hell, a month after I got my $1700 LG, it died and they had to send someone out to replace the motherboard - shit happens.

I Googled this and the 2 suggestions I found don't do anything. I'm running 21.3 and TV tunes are a lot louder than whatever I'm watching.

This is 21.3 on a Google TV, which might make a difference.

I read to go into TVTunes settings and lower the volume. Mine's already at 0. The other thing said to go into settings and turn down the UI volume. Even close to 0 the themes are still insanely loud and way louder than anything I watch on Kodi. I would say they sound twice as loud as anything I watch in Kodi. It's very jarring to go from watching a show at a normal volume to having the theme blare out of nowhere when it's over.

As a teen I was absolutely obsessed with trying every BBS software there was so I could see which I liked best. I probably switched software on my OG board every 3 weeks for close to a year lol. And back then for most of them, there was no user export/import feature. So anyone stupid enough to be a regular had to re-sign up a few times a month lol.

A few years ago I got the idea of bringing it back. I installed DosBox and Obv/2. I was a wizard with it back then, today I remember basically shit. And even worse, at 51, I don't have any of the desire or excitement I used to have. 14 year old me would spend hours a day after school and sometimes all weekend modding shit. I installed OBV/2 on a Dosbox and I didn't feel a connection. That conbined with me understanding putting up a new board MIGHT get 2-3 callers a week. The idea was a wrap. I understand as you get older you changed. But I really thought once I got OBV running like magic something would click and reawaken inside of me :|

I know there are a few bangers out there, 20For Beers is better than 99.99% of boards I ever called even back then. But I couldn't make anything close to that. I spent a few weeks and was unable to remember shit about setting up OBV. Back then I knew all the sysops who ran it so I had people to assist me. They're all long long gone.

Getting old sure sucks ass :|

I'm specifically looking at the Pro 5 or 8. My question is, do all the button codes natively show up in FLIRC? Years ago I had an HP remote and about 10 of the buttons couldn't be seen. And had to be remapped, I found some fellow on Kodi's forums to help me. He had me run Showkey.exe and tell him the binary for each of them. Then he made me a custom REG file that I imported and the buttons could be used with Kodi.

This was over a decade ago, I can't find them. And I don't have the knowledge, or patience to figure what exactly they did lol. I'm mostly curious about the 5 buttons above the center wheel (movies, tv, music, games, somethingelse?) I want to set these up in FLIRC + the MCE mapping addon in Kodi to use them. If they're not accessible without a lot of tinkering, And if not, would the 4 color buttons would work for this? I know on old media center remotes those 4 buttons were always for the media center. But a lot might have changed since then, so I don't want to just assume I can easily program every button. I remember that HP remote was somewhat a PITA, it was made for media center but struggled with Kodi.

I Googled this and saw there are a decent number of people who are having problems like I am. I tried deleting the cache directory, I tried removing and re-adding the account. On my computer, the email address works fine. But on a client's computer the same address doesn't, this is with both the new Outlook that comes with Windows 11, and Classic. With the new, every minute it'll pop up a box asking for the password. And more than just being annoying, it's not usable even if you don't mind punching the password in every 60 seconds. The repair option isn't repairing anything. And even when I go into the account settings and click on it telling me to log in, that only sticks for a few seconds. I even got desperate and tried changing the password on the server.

It's also not working properly in Outlook classic, it works better, but they're unable to send emails. On my PC I'm running Office 2016, so whatever version of Outlook that comes with that. Is there anything I can do to get them back using this email? The cache directory I deleted was %appdata%/microsoft/outlook. And the email I'm trying to access is IMAP, I'm using identical server settings on my PC and theirs, so I know the problem lies in their Outlooks. I see many have issues with the new Outlook, so they revert to using Classic. Welp, at least for this person, Classic isn't working either.

Since it works normal on my PC I've also eliminated it being something on the server. Although I suppose that could still be part of it. It's hosted on greengeeks. If anyone knows anything about Greengeeks and has any server side things for me to try, I'm all ears.

I Googled this, and I read a bunch of threads about it. There seems to be at least 1 step missing from all of them. I'm running 21.3 on my PC and TV. Kodi on my PC's set up almost perfectly. I backed it up to a flash drive and restored it on a fresh Kodi install on my TV. On my TV none of the media plays, it shows up but doesn't know where the files are. So I went on my PC and shared my media folders and enabled SMB in Kodi. Unless I'm stupid, this needs to be done for the media to actually play on the TV.

So I went into the media section in settings and changed the locations to the SMBs. And since all my media is tagged and has all the art and info downloaded. I set the content to movie and set it to use local info. There are a lot of random duplicates of movies, and many are missing coverart and discart. I checked everything in the back up app for what to back up. On my PC everything has coverart and a good number have discart, on my TV lots of both are missing.

The backup file's 4gb so I'm assuming it has all the art and info. Is everything I did not how I was supposed to do it? I don't want to let it scrape the movie/tv/music data off the internet because I spent a lot of time manually changing posters and adding specific fanart. None of the tutorials I found on xfering a Kodi setup mention anything about getting the actual media to play. I'm assuming Kodi on the PC saves an absolute path for the media in the database. And the Kodi on my TV has no idea where "M:\Movies" is. But if this needs to be changed I don't know why none of the tutorials I found mention it. I feel like maybe all the extra shit I did doesn't need to be done.

What the hell am I doing wrong or not doing that I should be?

This question gets asked about once a day, I did some Googling and my case is a bit different.

10x12 room, I was looking at the Polk MagniFi Max AX SR and a Klipsch Flexus 200 setup. As I thought about it more, in a room this small, rears might be overkill, so I scratched the Polk. I think maybe I should focus on a better soundbar with a sub and forget the rears. I bought a Hisense TV a few days ago and their HT Saturn caught my eye, but the sub's very meh (good for the price though) I have a Samsung W700 sub now, I don't know how it holds up against other soundbar subs, but at least for my room size it seems to have pretty good bass. I can't imagine the Saturn's sub would be anywhere close to this.

My budget's around $1000, but I could save up for a bit for something better. Would anything in that range beat the Flexus Core 200 + RSL 10s MK II? I understand with Atmos soundbars aren't gonna be magic. But I'd like to get one that has good Atmos, for a soundbar anywho.

I'd also be good with a sound bar with better Atmos that takes up my budget. And I could get a sub a few months later if there's a soundbar in the $1000 range that will have noticeably better Atmos. I heard my neighbor's Sonos Arc Ultra and the overheard effects sounded pretty good to me. But it's the only Atmos soundbar I've heard, so I have nothing to compare it to. And if I got that, I'd have to get a Sonos sub, but that's true for every bar I've come across except the Flexus.

I have a Samsung HW-MS650 with the rears & W700 sub. While I love how it sounds (except for the shitty, puny rears) the lack of Atmos is bothering me lol. I could easily live with just a soundbar for a few months while I save up $$$ for a sub if I could get something with noticeably better Atmos.