u/Cheesehead1267

I’ve now had two competitive matches where someone on my team saw me hovering Rogue and deliberately banned her anyway.

Both times it was someone I had previously muted for being extremely toxic (I only mute people who are deliberately malicious or extremely toxic). I hide my name, but I talk on mic during the ban phase to coordinate bans, so they likely recognized my voice. Rogue is good right now, but she’s nowhere near such a mandatory ban that either situation made much sense otherwise.

Obviously banning someone’s hover isn’t something you get suspended or penalized for (even though it is frowned upon and pretty toxic). You’re allowed to ban whoever you want. That’s actually why I think Avoid as Teammate is a great compromise: if someone hasn’t technically done anything punishable but you don’t want to play with them again, you can just avoid them and move on.

The problem is we only get three slots.

Those two players now occupy two of mine, leaving one spot for every toxic player, troll, thrower, or anyone else I genuinely don’t want on my team again.

I understand why the list can’t be unlimited, especially at higher ranks, but three feels way too restrictive. Even five would be a big improvement, and personally I’d love to see something closer to 10.

Posting this mostly because I’m curious how many other people feel the same way. If there’s enough support for increasing the number of Avoid slots, hopefully it’s something the devs might consider implementing.

I’m trying to make what is probably the biggest camera decision I’ve made so far, so apologies in advance for what is going to be a really long post and I’d really appreciate input from people who have actually used these cameras for filmmaking.

I currently have an FX5 on backorder, but because it hasn’t shipped yet, I’ve started questioning whether it’s actually the right camera for me or whether I’m spending a lot of extra money on features I may never fully use.

My main interest is filmmaking, specifically narrative work. I want to spend the next several years making short films, getting better at directing/shooting/editing, building a reel, and eventually getting to the point where I can do paid work. I also want to shoot travel shorts and music/live-event stuff for friends. One of my bigger goals is to attempt a feature-length narrative film within roughly the next year or two.

That last part is one reason I started looking seriously at the FX5. I don’t want to buy something now and then immediately feel like I need a different camera once I start working on larger narrative projects.

At the same time, I’m not currently a working DP or someone shooting professional productions every week. This is still something I’m building toward, so I’m wondering if the FX5 is simply more camera than I realistically need.

One requirement that is extremely important to me is recording reliability, particularly for live performances.

Some of my friends are in bands, and I want to start recording their performances. These shows can easily run for more than an hour, and potentially considerably longer depending on the event. In that situation, I may be the person they are specifically relying on to capture the performance, and there is obviously no opportunity to redo a song or an entire show because my camera shut down.

Because of that, I really do not want overheating to be something I have to think about. I don’t just mean that I want a camera that “usually” won’t overheat under normal circumstances. Ideally, I want something I can trust to record continuously for an hour or more in a potentially warm venue without me constantly wondering whether a temperature warning is going to appear.

The consequences are different to me than they would be when shooting one of my own films. If my camera overheats during my own project, it’s frustrating and costs us time. If it happens while I’m responsible for recording somebody else’s live performance, I become the single point of failure and could potentially lose footage that cannot be recreated. I also don’t want my friends or eventually paying clients to lose trust in me because the equipment I chose couldn’t reliably finish the job.

That level of reliability is one of the biggest reasons I’m hesitant to simply choose the cheapest body that technically has the image quality I need.

Photography is not much of a factor anymore. I used to put more value on having a hybrid camera, but filmmaking is very clearly what I care about most. Having the ability to take good photos would be nice, but I don’t think I should choose my main camera around photography anymore. If I eventually really need a stills camera, I could address that separately.

For some additional context, I previously owned an A7 IV but then sold it after a few years and later bought an A7 V. I ultimately returned the A7 V because I kept feeling like I was compromising around filmmaking with a cheaper hybrid body when filmmaking was the thing I actually wanted to focus on. That experience is part of why I’m now looking primarily at Sony’s cinema-oriented bodies rather than automatically choosing another hybrid.

The cameras I’m really considering now are the FX5, FX3, FX2, and possibly the A7 V again if there’s a compelling reason I’m overlooking.

Another huge part of this decision is that I need to approach this purchase as though it may be the last major camera body I buy.

I don’t mean that in the usual “I want something future-proof for five years” sense. Realistically, once I spend this money, I cannot assume that I’ll simply be able to buy another several-thousand-dollar camera a few years from now. Life has other financial responsibilities, and I don’t make the kind of money where repeatedly upgrading expensive camera bodies is realistic.

So advice along the lines of “buy the cheaper camera now and upgrade later if you outgrow it” doesn’t really work for me. I need to make this decision assuming there may not be an upgrade later.

Because I need to treat this as potentially my last major camera-body purchase, I’m trying to evaluate these options based on what will serve me best over the full range of work I realistically want to grow into, not just what I need today. I’m completely open to the FX5 being the right answer if its advantages would meaningfully benefit my use case over time, just as I’m open to one of the less expensive bodies being the better choice if I would not actually gain anything important from moving up to the FX5. What I’m trying to avoid is making the decision based purely on price in either direction.

I also already have a lot of the supporting equipment. I own the Tamron 28-75mm f/2.8 G2, lights, audio equipment, an ND filter system, and other filmmaking gear, and I edit in Resolve Studio. So this isn’t really a question of whether I should buy a cheaper camera and use the difference to buy my first lights, microphone, filters, etc. I already have that foundation. The body itself is what I’m trying to figure out.

Most of what I’ll be doing in the near term will probably be relatively small productions: narrative shorts, travel films, music-related projects, live performances, and other personal filmmaking. A lot of it will likely be me operating the camera myself or working with a small group rather than having a full traditional camera department.

But I do want to progressively make more ambitious films, and the feature-length project is something I genuinely want to attempt rather than just a vague “maybe someday” idea.

So I guess what I’m struggling with is this:

Does the combination of needing extremely dependable long-form recording for 60+ minute live performances, focusing almost entirely on video, wanting to shoot a feature within the next year or two, and needing to treat this as potentially my last major camera-body purchase make the FX5 a sensible investment even if I won’t use every professional feature immediately?

Or would the FX3 realistically give me everything I actually need for those projects, including the long-form recording reliability I’m looking for and eventually shooting a feature, without leaving me wishing several years from now that I had gone with the FX5 when I still had the opportunity?

And where does the FX2 fit into this? Does it make more sense for someone in my position than either of those, or would I be compromising on the wrong things?

Finally, is there actually a strong argument for the A7 V given that photography is no longer particularly important to me, or would I just end up in the same position I was in before where I wished I had bought a video-first body?

One other thing I’m thinking about is autofocus reliability. I’ve seen examples of the FX3 briefly losing or hunting for focus, and I’ve heard some owners mention similar experiences. Since some of what I’d be shooting could be live events or situations where I can’t redo a shot, I’m curious how much of a concern that actually is in practice and whether the newer autofocus system in the FX5 makes a meaningful difference.

I’m less interested in which camera has the best spec sheet and more interested in which one makes sense for this specific situation. I’m especially interested in hearing from people who have shot narrative work, features, concerts/live events, or who have experience with more than one of these bodies. Which capabilities actually mattered to you in practice, which ones did you think you needed but barely ended up using, and is there anything you eventually wished your camera had that you didn’t appreciate when you first bought it?

I’m trying to make what is probably the biggest camera decision I’ve made so far, so apologies in advance for what is going to be a really long post and I’d really appreciate input from people who have actually used these cameras for filmmaking.

I currently have an FX5 on backorder, but because it hasn’t shipped yet, I’ve started questioning whether it’s actually the right camera for me or whether I’m spending a lot of extra money on features I may never fully use.

My main interest is filmmaking, specifically narrative work. I want to spend the next several years making short films, getting better at directing/shooting/editing, building a reel, and eventually getting to the point where I can do paid work. I also want to shoot travel shorts and music/live-event stuff for friends. One of my bigger goals is to attempt a feature-length narrative film within roughly the next year or two.

That last part is one reason I started looking seriously at the FX5. I don’t want to buy something now and then immediately feel like I need a different camera once I start working on larger narrative projects.

At the same time, I’m not currently a working DP or someone shooting professional productions every week. This is still something I’m building toward, so I’m wondering if the FX5 is simply more camera than I realistically need.

One requirement that is extremely important to me is recording reliability, particularly for live performances.

Some of my friends are in bands, and I want to start recording their performances. These shows can easily run for more than an hour, and potentially considerably longer depending on the event. In that situation, I may be the person they are specifically relying on to capture the performance, and there is obviously no opportunity to redo a song or an entire show because my camera shut down.

Because of that, I really do not want overheating to be something I have to think about. I don’t just mean that I want a camera that “usually” won’t overheat under normal circumstances. Ideally, I want something I can trust to record continuously for an hour or more in a potentially warm venue without me constantly wondering whether a temperature warning is going to appear.

The consequences are different to me than they would be when shooting one of my own films. If my camera overheats during my own project, it’s frustrating and costs us time. If it happens while I’m responsible for recording somebody else’s live performance, I become the single point of failure and could potentially lose footage that cannot be recreated. I also don’t want my friends or eventually paying clients to lose trust in me because the equipment I chose couldn’t reliably finish the job.

That level of reliability is one of the biggest reasons I’m hesitant to simply choose the cheapest body that technically has the image quality I need.

Photography is not much of a factor anymore. I used to put more value on having a hybrid camera, but filmmaking is very clearly what I care about most. Having the ability to take good photos would be nice, but I don’t think I should choose my main camera around photography anymore. If I eventually really need a stills camera, I could address that separately.

For some additional context, I previously owned an A7 IV but then sold it after a few years and later bought an A7 V. I ultimately returned the A7 V because I kept feeling like I was compromising around filmmaking with a cheaper hybrid body when filmmaking was the thing I actually wanted to focus on. That experience is part of why I’m now looking primarily at Sony’s cinema-oriented bodies rather than automatically choosing another hybrid.

The cameras I’m really considering now are the FX5, FX3, FX2, and possibly the A7 V again if there’s a compelling reason I’m overlooking.

Another huge part of this decision is that I need to approach this purchase as though it may be the last major camera body I buy.

I don’t mean that in the usual “I want something future-proof for five years” sense. Realistically, once I spend this money, I cannot assume that I’ll simply be able to buy another several-thousand-dollar camera a few years from now. Life has other financial responsibilities, and I don’t make the kind of money where repeatedly upgrading expensive camera bodies is realistic.

So advice along the lines of “buy the cheaper camera now and upgrade later if you outgrow it” doesn’t really work for me. I need to make this decision assuming there may not be an upgrade later.

Because I need to treat this as potentially my last major camera-body purchase, I’m trying to evaluate these options based on what will serve me best over the full range of work I realistically want to grow into, not just what I need today. I’m completely open to the FX5 being the right answer if its advantages would meaningfully benefit my use case over time, just as I’m open to one of the less expensive bodies being the better choice if I would not actually gain anything important from moving up to the FX5. What I’m trying to avoid is making the decision based purely on price in either direction.

I also already have a lot of the supporting equipment. I own the Tamron 28-75mm f/2.8 G2, lights, audio equipment, an ND filter system, and other filmmaking gear, and I edit in Resolve Studio. So this isn’t really a question of whether I should buy a cheaper camera and use the difference to buy my first lights, microphone, filters, etc. I already have that foundation. The body itself is what I’m trying to figure out.

Most of what I’ll be doing in the near term will probably be relatively small productions: narrative shorts, travel films, music-related projects, live performances, and other personal filmmaking. A lot of it will likely be me operating the camera myself or working with a small group rather than having a full traditional camera department.

But I do want to progressively make more ambitious films, and the feature-length project is something I genuinely want to attempt rather than just a vague “maybe someday” idea.

So I guess what I’m struggling with is this:

Does the combination of needing extremely dependable long-form recording for 60+ minute live performances, focusing almost entirely on video, wanting to shoot a feature within the next year or two, and needing to treat this as potentially my last major camera-body purchase make the FX5 a sensible investment even if I won’t use every professional feature immediately?

Or would the FX3 realistically give me everything I actually need for those projects, including the long-form recording reliability I’m looking for and eventually shooting a feature, without leaving me wishing several years from now that I had gone with the FX5 when I still had the opportunity?

And where does the FX2 fit into this? Does it make more sense for someone in my position than either of those, or would I be compromising on the wrong things?

Finally, is there actually a strong argument for the A7 V given that photography is no longer particularly important to me, or would I just end up in the same position I was in before where I wished I had bought a video-first body?

One other thing I’m thinking about is autofocus reliability. I’ve seen examples of the FX3 briefly losing or hunting for focus, and I’ve heard some owners mention similar experiences. Since some of what I’d be shooting could be live events or situations where I can’t redo a shot, I’m curious how much of a concern that actually is in practice and whether the newer autofocus system in the FX5 makes a meaningful difference.

I’m less interested in which camera has the best spec sheet and more interested in which one makes sense for this specific situation. I’m especially interested in hearing from people who have shot narrative work, features, concerts/live events, or who have experience with more than one of these bodies. Which capabilities actually mattered to you in practice, which ones did you think you needed but barely ended up using, and is there anything you eventually wished your camera had that you didn’t appreciate when you first bought it?

Does anyone know of a good Rogue statue or display figure that doesn’t cost a ridiculous amount of money?

Ideally, I’d love something based on her Marvel Rivals design, since that’s probably my favorite version of Rogue visually right now, but I’m definitely open to other designs if there isn’t anything good for Rivals yet.

I’ve seen some really nice custom 3D-printable models online, but I don’t have a resin printer—only a filament one—so I don’t think those would come out nearly as well for something detailed like a statue.

Not looking for anything super premium or huge, just something that looks good on a shelf without getting into the several-hundred-dollar range.

Any recommendations?

I haven’t been following the FX5 rollout very closely because I originally wasn’t planning to buy until October, so I’m trying to catch up on where things currently stand.

I’m in the U.S. and would be ordering through B&H. My plan is to have the money set aside for the camera by October, but with Sony saying orders exceeded expectations and all of the recent production/delivery delays, I’m wondering if waiting until October to place the preorder could mean not actually receiving one for several more months.

For those who have been following the rollout or currently have a preorder: when did you order, through which retailer/country, and what shipping estimate have you been given?

If your goal were to actually receive an FX5 around October, would you get into the preorder queue now, wait until September, or is there not enough information yet to make that call?

I’m trying to work through a ranked mentality issue, and I’m looking for something a little deeper than “stop caring about rank and focus on improvement.”

It took me basically an entire season (believe I started S9 at GMIII and just got to GMI on Sunday) to get through GMII and finally reach GMI. Because it took that long, I’ve become very attached to keeping it. The idea of deranking back to GMII feels like throwing away all of the progress, even though logically I know that isn’t really true.

And that’s where I’m stuck. I already understand the usual advice: rank is just a number, focus on improving, if you become better the rank will follow, and if you genuinely belong at a rank you should eventually get it back.

The problem is that understanding all of that intellectually hasn’t changed the emotional reaction. I can tell myself those things and still feel reluctant to queue because I don’t want to lose what took me so long to earn.

So for people who have genuinely dealt with this: what did you actually do that changed the way you felt about losing rank?

Did you deliberately keep queueing until deranking stopped feeling threatening? Set rules for yourself around when and/or how much you queue? Stop checking SR? Reframe what a derank means? Have an experience where you deranked and climbed back that changed your perspective?

I’m especially interested in concrete mental strategies or behaviors rather than just “focus on improvement,” because I already agree with that advice. I’m trying to figure out how to actually internalize it.

Thank you.

Edit for some additional context: I peaked Celestial 3 last season (S8.5), but part of why this still bothers me is that my mains/playstyle (Cap and Rogue and Dive playstyle) were considerably stronger then. Dive has been hit pretty hard in the current meta, which is much more front-to-back, so part of my fear is wondering whether my previous peak was helped heavily by the meta and whether I can actually reproduce that level now. That makes “if you belong there, you’ll just climb back” harder for me to internalize, because part of me questions whether I still belong there under the current conditions.

I’m heading to Shenandoah in late September for a night with a couple friends. None of us are experienced hikers, so we’re intentionally keeping things pretty easy.

Right now, we’re planning on doing Dark Hollow Falls and Big Meadows. We may just stick to those two, then spend the rest of the day driving Skyline Drive and stopping at overlooks rather than trying to cram in a bunch of hikes. But still debating on if we’ll maybe add one or two more. If we do, it won’t be anything too challenging.

My current shoes are Brooks Ghost 12 road-running shoes. Assuming the tread is still in decent shape and the weather is dry, would those be good enough for these trails? I’m particularly wondering about Dark Hollow Falls since I’ve read that parts of it can be steep, rocky, and slippery.

I’m willing to buy proper trail/hiking shoes if the Ghosts aren’t a good idea, but I have extremely wide feet, so finding something that fits can be a pain. Plus, I don’t hike and do trails a lot in general, so not sure how cost-effective it would be to buy like $300 LOWA’s for potentially a one-time use. I’d probably go to a local running/hiking store and get fitted rather than ordering something blindly. I’d also rather not spend $150–250 on new shoes or boots if they’re unnecessary for what we’re actually doing.

For those of you who have hiked these trails, would you be comfortable doing them in road-running shoes like the Ghosts, or is the extra traction from trail/hiking shoes worth getting?

Hi,

So I had a two games with Rogue (second one was with Emma a good bit but started as Rogue). Something you’ll notice in these games is me not playing her usual playstyle (dive). This season, back to front has definitely become much harder unless you have crazy damage output.

So, I tend to play Rogue more as a front to back brawler that pushes into the enemy front, steals a tank, and then may push past the frontlines into the back to put on some pressure. Kind of similar to mag. Putting pressure on supports is super important, but I can’t be there too long or else I blow up. Just wanted to add this as I know it was bound to come up as a point.

I’d love to play Rogue as dive, but she really can’t be, so I’m just trying to adapt rather than sit in Mag jail all season long.

I’m also including another game where I started with Rogue, but then played as Emma. I was debating whether to put this one in here because it’s such a short game where we got stomped, but I know I could still learn a lot from the loss. Whether it was bad matchmaking or my poor play or both, I don’t know. But I do know that I could’ve done much better. This game is the code that ends in 928.

In Game Name: Inde_Navarette

Platform: PC

Game Code(s): 101697110087

102790100928

Thanks so much for any insights you can provide!

Hi,

I want to get better at the game and feel like coaching is best for me so I can get a grasp of everything I’m doing wrong to make my sessions far more intentional than they currently are.

I’ve looked into a few coaches, but I feel like TrqstMe is kind of perfect for me because I only play the tank role. I’m curious though if anyone has done personal coaching with him or at least joined his academy. If so, what does a session look like?

Any insights are appreciated.

Hi,

I’m considering getting roommates within the next year as I live at home and don’t make enough to live alone, but one thing I keep coming back to is the fact that I own some pretty expensive belongings. I have two high-end PCs, camera gear, and a few other valuables that would be basically impossible for me to replace if something happened to them.

I already plan on getting renters insurance, but I’m curious how people who own expensive things get comfortable living with roommates. Is it something you stop thinking about after a while, or do you take extra precautions like locking your bedroom?

I’m also curious how you properly vet potential roommates. Is it mostly just trusting your gut after meeting them, or are there things you look for that have helped you avoid bad situations?

I’d especially like to hear from people who have actually lived with roommates while owning expensive items. Did it ever end up being an issue, or was it mostly a non-factor?

Hi,

I’ve been having a dilemma lately. I’ll be in a ranked game and consider swapping heroes, not because my current pick can’t work, but because another hero might be the better pick for that match.

The problem is that a lot of those “better picks” are also considered busted. I hesitate to swap because I end up telling myself that if I win, it won’t really be because I played well, it’ll be because I picked an overtuned character.

For example, I’m a tank main. My comfort pick is Captain America, but I can also play Strange, Emma, Magneto, and Rogue. There are games where Magneto would probably be the better pick, but since he’s considered very strong, part of me feels like any success I have with him isn’t really earned.

Because of that, I often just stay on Captain America instead.

Is this a healthy way to think about improving at the game, or is it actually hurting me? Should I just play the strongest hero I know how to play for a given situation, even if they’re considered overpowered? Or is there value in sticking to weaker picks because it forces me to improve mechanically and decision-wise?

I know you could argue that Captain America has also been very strong at different points, so maybe I’m being inconsistent. The only reason I make an exception for him is because I one-tricked him from day one until a few months ago.

I’ve been going back and forth for the past few days trying to decide which mouse to keep: the Razer Viper V4 Pro or the ATK A9 Air+.

I’ve used the GPX shape for about six years, so the A9 immediately felt natural. The Viper shape has also been surprisingly comfortable though, to the point where I don’t really think about either shape while I’m playing.

The problem is that I think I’m playing slightly better with the Viper. My game is Marvel Rivals, so tracking is a lot more important than flicking, and I’m wondering if the lower weight is actually helping or if it’s just in my head.

The only thing making me hesitate is that I get a dull fatigue pain in my hand after playing with the Viper for a while. It isn’t severe and usually goes away after a minute or two of resting, but I don’t notice it with the A9.

I’m also a little concerned about ATK’s customer support. I’ve seen a few posts from people who said their mouse was bricked after a firmware update and that support stopped responding after the initial contact. I don’t know how common that actually is, but it does make me a little hesitant.

For those of you who have used both, which one did you end up keeping and why? Did your opinion change after a few weeks?

I’m genuinely looking for outside perspectives because I want to know whether I’m missing something in this financial reasoning.

This came up during a disagreement with my stepmom, but I’m not looking for relationship advice or opinions about them. I’m only interested in whether the underlying financial principle is generally considered sound.

For context, I’m 26 and currently live at home because I don’t make enough to afford living on my own. I’ve priced everything out multiple times. The limiting factor is my income relative to housing costs, not a lack of a few thousand dollars in savings.

About two years ago, I bought a watch for around $1,000. I didn’t finance it, go into debt, or neglect any of my financial responsibilities. I intentionally saved up for it while continuing to pay my student loans, phone bill, electric bill, car insurance, medical bills, prescriptions, and everything else with my salary from my full-time job that I used my college degree to get. I also maintained an emergency fund. It was simply a discretionary purchase that I planned and saved for. I also don’t make purchases like this often. Luxury purchases like this are pretty rare for me and aren’t representative of my normal spending habits.

The watch wasn’t even a topic until yesterday. I posted a picture of it as a joke in a family group chat. My stepmom looked up what the watch cost on their own. Rather than bringing it up with me directly, she instead spoke to my dad about it. According to him, she gave him “a bunch of shit” over it and argued that if I don’t make enough to live on my own, then I don’t make enough to buy a $1,000 watch.

Here’s where I struggle with the logic.

Even if I had never bought the watch and instead put that $1,000 into my savings account, I still wouldn’t be able to afford moving out. The root issue is that my income isn’t high enough. The watch didn’t create that problem, and not buying it wouldn’t have solved it either. My financial situation also hasn’t materially changed since I bought the watch two years ago.

What also confused me is that this same family member had no issue when I went on a cruise that same year with two friends that cost about $1,600 per person. They’ve also never objected to other discretionary spending or smaller vacations. If the principle is that someone who can’t yet afford to live independently shouldn’t make discretionary purchases, it seems like that principle would apply equally to vacations and other non-essential spending, not just this watch.

I’m not asking whether spending $1,000 on a watch is a good use of money. I know that’s subjective.

What I’m asking is whether this financial reasoning makes sense. Is there a personal finance principle that supports the idea that a purchase like this is irresponsible simply because I can’t currently afford to live on my own, even if that purchase had no meaningful impact on my ability to move out? Or is the reasoning inconsistent based on the circumstances I described?

Hi,

I know this is an FX3 community, but I bought the FX5 and added the two-year Allstate plan that is available on BHPhotoVideo (the Sony Protect Plus still isn’t available and BHPhotoVideo told me to reach out when it became available and they’d get that swapped over).

My question is, are these worth it or are they kind of a waste of money? I baby my equipment and have never had an issue, but at the same time, I would hate to lose out on $5500 if something were to accidentally happen. Due to this, I have always bought these plans for my bodies (though tbf, I haven’t bought many bodies in my life).

I’m trying to decide between the Viper V4 Pro and the Viper V3 Pro, and I’m curious whether the V4 is actually worth the extra $70–80.

For some context, I currently use a Superlight 2 Superstrike. I really like it overall, but the clicks are just a little too sensitive for me. I play Marvel Rivals, and I have abilities bound to my left and right click, so even resting my fingers on the buttons can sometimes trigger them. It’s become annoying enough that I’m looking for something else.

I tried the Viper V4 Pro a while back and absolutely loved it. The shape was perfect, and the weight felt incredible. I can get a Viper V3 Pro for $100, while the V4 would cost me another $70–80.

Money isn’t really the deciding factor. If the V4 is genuinely worth the extra cost, I’ll buy it. I’m just trying to figure out whether it actually offers enough over the V3 to make that price difference worthwhile.

Right now I play at 1,000 Hz, and while I may try 2,000 Hz at some point, I don’t see myself using 8,000 Hz, so that’s not a huge factor for me.

For those of you who’ve used both, does the V4 feel noticeably better in day-to-day use, or is the V3 close enough that you’d save the money?

If you were buying one today, which would you go with?

Hi,

I have my melee bound to my one side mouse button. I typically spam, but recently I’ve been curious about if timing it (clicking after you hear the impact sound of one connected melee punch and continuing to do that) is faster at TTK than spamming as it’s kind of hard to tell imo.

Anyone actually test this with a timer side-by-side? I’d be super curious what the results were if so.

Thanks for any insights/help.

Hi,

I pre-ordered one of the Marvel Rivals figures today from Amazon, but I’m curious if I should cancel that and place it on the McFarlane site if it means it will get delivered earlier.

Or will it get delivered around the same time and the extra amount in shipping on the McFarlane site isn’t worth it?

Or is there another online store that I should buy from instead that would allow me to get it the quickest?

Thanks for any insights you can provide.

I’m considering selling my Captain America Epic Collection collection and was curious what the current market looks like.

Over the last year, I picked up every Captain America Epic Collection that has ever released. They’re all in good condition, but I’ve realized I don’t read them and could use the money instead.

Ideally, I’d like to get around $1,000 for the entire collection. I know some of the volumes I bought were already selling above cover price, so I’m not sure how much that translates to on the resale market.

For those of you who buy and sell Epic Collections regularly, is $1,000 for the complete currently released Captain America Epic Collection set realistic, or am I way off? I’d like to sell to my local comic shop as I’ve had bad experiences with selling to private buyers in the past with scams, but I’m guessing that $1K is probably not realistic with them as they need to meet overheads.

Thanks!

Hi,

I had a really bad game as Rogue and was curious if someone could take a look at it and point out what I’m doing is wrong.

The game wasn’t fully a Rogue game as I had to fill healer (which I don’t play), but it was mostly Rogue and I should also note that my game crashed and I had to load back up really quick. It was a mess of a match on my part.

I play Rogue between 00:06:24 and 00:15:05. We had a gambit as well, so I really have no excuse. All I know s that I need to get better as Rogue as she is in my lineup.

In-game name: Jia Lissa

Platform: PC

Game Code: 10735990491.

Thanks so much in advance for watching and providing any help/advice/insights!