u/Familiar9709

What are your thoughts on the Pinnacle bikes? Is it worth it to get them and save £100-200 bikes vs an equivalent branded one, e.g. Trek, Specialized, etc?

Looking for general opinions so don't want to narrow it down to a specific bike, but for the sake of example, I'm looking at a Pinnacle hybrid bike, either Cerium or Neon vs e.g. Trek FX2, similar components the Trek seems to be around £200 more (£450 vs £650).

I do have the money if it's really worth it to spend it but that's what I'm wondering, or if you're just paying for "the brand" without getting much in return.

Which format do you recommend, for a format compatible with Windows, and ideally Linux?

exFAT: I have an exFAT drive and it turned into a nightmare, everytime I plug it in, it goes into the fsck_exfat loop. Takes forever and sometimes even after checking it doesn't work. Before it used to be possible to kill the process and read the drive but I cannot do that anymore (doesn't read it). I did manage to read it last time by letting it do the full check but after plugging it again it's the same problem.

NTFS: requires special drives, and they are not free. Some require root rights on the machine to change the security permissions, which I don't have

FAT32: is it really that bad? Most people seem to recommend exFAT over FAT32, but given by bad experience with exFAT I'm thinking FAT32 would be better. I don't care about the 4GB file size limit, but I do want it to be reliable and not cause me headaches with plugging it in/out. I'm worried though that it can have issues like exFAT (since it's not journalled) and also lead to fragmentation and a bad behaviour (but I don't care about the ultimate performance as long as it's decent)

I want to do a trail, let's say from A to B to C, where point B is 20% of the distance, but A to B is really uphill, whereas it gets downhill from B to C.

What's the best direction to do this? Short but really uphill section A to B first and then a long downhill B to C, or a long uphill C to B, ending with a quick downhill B to A?

To be more specific the trail in question is 40km long, the first 10km there's an elevation of 500m and then descent of 500m

"best" means whatever is best for you, I'm asking for people's opinions

For me this is a complete deal breaker. It'll be new on mac so probably very small user base son multiplayer will be massively limited, and then I won't be able to play with my friends. So what am I supposed to do? Install both the native one and also keep my virtualized option? There will probably be differences in the GUI so hard to memorize one in particular playing two different versions, etc.

A pity I think from my side. Maybe they'll fix that later but until then for me it's not useful.

Also, I think there will be loads of people who buy it expecting it to fully work for multiplayer and will be massively disappointed. They'll make a fortune out of this, which is quite controversial really.

What are your views on that? What does it actually mean? They lost the papers? They didn't do the regular servicing?

I find it very hard to believe that people would be so bad as to lose the papers, when you know they'll add a lot of value to the car when selling, so I tend to think it's hiding something (in general of course, there are exceptions).

What are your views? How do you interpret it? How much are you expecting to save if there's no full service history?

By the record, I do agree that the condition is key and more important than this, but for filtering out cars service history, MOTs, dealers, etc, can be very useful.

I'm talking about typical cars people buy used, not something exotic. Think a 10 year old Focus with 100k miles.

From previous posts it seems £1000 is clearly worth it. £400 seems still worth it, what about lower figures? £100 worth it? £200, £300?

What's the minimum you're willing to save to get a black box?

I've been checking online and it seems it's not, or at least in some shops (then how can some shops get away with not following the distance selling regulations)?

I usually buy click and collect since I find it more convenient. It's a mess to deliver to my house and sometimes it arrives faster if it's click and collect.

But does that mean I'm not covered by the distance selling regulations, i.e. no free 14 day return period? I'm very surprised if that's the case, never thought it would be and then it's a deal breaker for me for click and collect. (I'm not going to bother inspecting at the site every thing I buy). Of course this second part is subjective, just giving background for why I ask the question from a legal perspective.

What do you think it's the pros and cons of each, and which one will be cheaper?

This is for weekend trips, let's say 20 weekends a year, visit places within the UK.

Renting works out around £60 for 2 days, so £1200 a year. Enterprise has those prices, also you can use enterprisecarclub, which rents per hour/day. Excess is 0 if you use the 3rd party companies, around £100 per year.

Buying would be around £3000-5000 for the car, £500-1000 for insurance, £500-1000 for maintenance.

With this info, it seems renting is way cheaper.

Bonus question: how come is renting so cheap? £50 for 2 days, how do they even make money, given that they rent almost brand new cars (£20k cost)?

Thoughts on buying from smaller dealers?

Let's say big dealers are Arnold Clark and similar ones, then middle ones are those in central locations in a city, many years of trading, 100+ reviews on google, etc. Smaller would be those a bit more hidden in towns, fewer years trading and very few reviews online.

What are your thoughts buying from those?

Hi. Is it worth it? By inexpensive I mean something around the £1000 mark, so hub motor, something like Halfords Vengeance or Subway.

Plan is for weekend rides, around 40-50 miles in hilly places, e.g. England Peak District.

I read that in low power mode you can achieve that range but also that low power mode gives very little power so almost not worth it to use an ebike then. More power would make more sense but then seems you can only get 20 miles which for my use would be too little.

Thoughts?

I'm looking for my first car, so as I have no NCD my insurance is quite expensive (around £1000), even though I'm 40+. However, there's this specific Peugeot 108 car that gives me around £500 but it only applies to that specific car. I've checked loads of other cars from the same year, similar condition, same engine, etc, etc, and the insurance goes to £750+.

The only different thing I see about this car is that it never failed an MOT, but can that really make insurance so much cheaper?

Edit: I think it's the MOT, found another model that never failed MOT and also giving much cheaper quotes. Interesting!

What do you think will be better? Consider how useful it'll be, cost, maintenance, safety, etc?

Use: I'm thinking it for weekend rides, e.g. in quiet country roads, to see places. In England, e.g. Peak District.

A good brand new moped is around £2000, which is similar amount to a good ebike (you can get some ebikes for £1000 too though). Insurance for a new driver on a moped is around £200 (at least someone older), so very cheap. So in terms of cost for me it's same "order of magnitude"

Moped is restricted to 28mph (in the UK), ebike to 15.5mph (I know you can pedal faster but very hard to do for longer distance).

Ebike has the big advantage that it can run on cyclepaths, but then on the road I think you're more exposed than even in a moped. You can also take ebike on trains. You can keep ebike indoors.

Range of moped is basically infinite, you just add more fuel, whereas ebike maybe 30-50 miles max?

Very unlikely to get a fine on an ebike, whereas of course a moped is similar to a car, you can get fined for speeding, traffic lights, etc.

Thoughts?

What do you think will be better? Consider how useful it'll be, cost, maintenance, safety, etc?

Use: I'm thinking it for weekend rides, e.g. in quiet country roads, to see places. In England, e.g. Peak District.

A good brand new moped is around £2000, which is similar amount to a good ebike (you can get some ebikes for £1000 too though). Insurance for a new driver on a moped is around £200 (at least someone older), so very cheap. So in terms of cost for me it's same "order of magnitude"

Moped is restricted to 28mph, ebike to 15.5mph (I know you can pedal faster but very hard to do for longer distance).

Ebike has the big advantage that it can run on cyclepaths, but then on the road I think you're more exposed than even in a moped. You can also take ebike on trains. You can keep ebike indoors.

Range of moped is basically infinite, you just add more fuel, whereas ebike maybe 30-50 miles max?

Very unlikely to get a fine on an ebike, whereas of course a moped is similar to a car, you can get fined for speeding, traffic lights, etc.

Thoughts?

Does the non claim bonus transfer when swithing from a 50cc moped to a 125cc scooter or are they considered completely different vehicles?

Hi. Could someone let me know what the typical rental prices for the enterprise car club are? For cars and vans, and hourly and daily. If it's different in london vs outside london and you have that data it'd be great.

Unfortunately they don't tell this information if you're not a member and it's nowhere in their website.

I used to be a member and a 3 years ago it was around £7 an hour for cars and £50 per day, don't remember van prices, but I guess it must have gone up.

Thanks

Edit: everyone is answering "no, because nothing can go faster than c". That's what I'm referring to as a circular argument. I'm after a full explanation with maths if necessary.

What would happen in that thought experiment? Imagine two heavy starts in an otherwise empty space, they'll attract each other and speed up more and more (like in free fall), eventually wouldn't they go faster than the speed of light?

What is the proper explanation to reject that hypothesis? (without circular arguments please)