
Joust - I now have video but only a blank screen
After finally acquiring a working K4900 board, I can now tackle the main boardset. Only getting a blank orange screen and the codes 1,3,1 on the rom board.

After finally acquiring a working K4900 board, I can now tackle the main boardset. Only getting a blank orange screen and the codes 1,3,1 on the rom board.
Crisp, no folds, definitely the lowest serial number I’ve found. The latest comp was a 0000132 that sold for just over $100cad so I’m thinking it’s in that ballpark.
Genuinely can’t remember the last time I found silver in my change it’s been that long, apart from people using it in their change at my work. Silver is still out there people don’t give up hope!
I’m no expert on fossils but some people have said that I found a Nautiloid Cephalopod from the Ordovician period. I found a few gastropods in the same area as well.
Wondering if I found something good or not. I believe it’s Ordovician based on what I’ve been told about previous fossils from the same area. Found a few gastropods nearby as well.
Trust me when I say that the camera isn’t doing this dime justice. The combination of the AU condition and the slight overall toning makes this a beautiful dime
Up until last April I had an iPhone 14 Plus with an LTE only SIM card which worked fine never had an issue when I had service. Then I upgraded to an iPhone 16 pro max that came with a 5G eSIM and ever since in most scenarios whenever I am connected to LTE it is slow as balls even on full bars like right now. I live in Atlantic Canada and the base majority of areas do not yet have 5G towers so LTE is what you get everywhere outside the major cities/towns. Should I just go back to an LTE SIM card for compatibility or is there something else going wrong that I can fix?
Not sure if the speed test proves anything I just thought it might be helpful for those who know more about cellular.
I have an old CED player that has a suspected bad inductor. I’m trying to find the value in case I have to replace it. Does this color code look right? I can’t find the part in the list of replacement parts in the service manual.
If I am wrong don’t be afraid to tell me I just want to make sense of it all. The first photo was yesterday and the second photo was today. I had a balance of $646.30 yesterday plus another charge of $68.95 which is $715.25. I payed $700 so when all is posted it should only be $15.25. So why is it today I have a balance of $455.43 after nothing has posted since yesterday other than the payment? I did make purchases today for $500+ as you can see but those aren’t posted yet so why do I suddenly have $400+ balance mysteriously. Again if I am missing a key detail please tell me as I don’t want to pay off what I did not charge.
Most of the chips on the left side of the board are only giving me 0.36v on the 5V line. The right side of the board tests fine, the VIC-II is getting 12.14 and 4.98 on its respective pins and the 8701 clock chip is getting its proper voltages as well. Could this be failing transistors or possibly a cracked trace going to that side of the board?
*I labeled the transistors wrong it’s the 7812 for the 12V and 7805 for the 5V.
I had this C64 for a couple of years and I need a starting point to try and get it working. Every socketed chip has been tested in a different machine and works fine. I replaced two capacitors I had on hand that matched and I’m gonna order the rest today. The RF modulator was swapped out with an S-Video board when I first got it as I suspected it was an RF modulator failure. The fuse has been replaced as well.
Macintosh Classic. Only managed to tear one solder pad off the board, luckily the point where the trace lead was close enough for me just line it up diagonally and solder directly to it. Continuity tested good so I’m going with it. I did go back and clean up some of the leftover flux with alcohol afterwards. I used Hakko SMD hot tweezers for removing. Some caps were more stubborn than others and one cap did let out the magic smoke while trying to remove it.
Every board is recapped, monitor board (WG K4900) I recapped, replaced the ceramic resistor and 2 transistors on the vertical circuit and I am still stumped. I do have new potentiometers not sure if they would be a cause of any issues. I am also still getting error codes on the ROM board. I’ll try and post the videos in the comments.
Just replaced the transistors on the vertical circuit and I’d like to test the video somehow. I don’t have a pattern generator and my ROM board is currently with someone else getting repaired.
Only one leg came out of the socket, the other one sunken down too far. I’m probably gonna replace the sockets so the corrosion doesn’t eat anymore chip legs. Is there someone or somewhere that sells replacement roms for Joust? If I can get them burned what chips do I need?
So far I am not having much luck getting my board to work. I have recapped the entire board (except for the large filter cap), and replaced the 470ohm resistor on the vertical line. I ordered the transistors (2sc2073’s) which I will replace. Has anyone encountered this problem and found a solution on their board?
Disclaimer I have no video as I am in the process of recapping the K4900 monitor board and there is no CMOS battery as I am waiting on a coin cell replacement. I know the 2 means ROM error but can anyone pick out exactly where the problem may lie? To me it looks like 2,3,3 and 3,3,3. The 3’s may be an indication of no CMOS as there is no battery installed. Just putting it out there in case it’s something I can fix in the meantime while waiting on video. Can’t post videos so screenshotted the sequence.
Joust upright. The mech in the picture I believe is for quarters but the one next to it is labeled TOKEN and I’d like to switch that one out for loonies if I can. If so, which model mech do I buy that can go in for it?
I recapped the power supply today and so far I’ve had some good and bad. The good is that the board is doing more than it did before. I am getting error codes on the game board (2 followed by 3 repeating) and also the lights under the controls. Where would be a good place to check to get that +5V working? All the fuses tested good and I recrimped one of the holders which were loose.