u/rogermorse

Ho riconnesso il pannello frontale perche' dopo aver aggiornato il bios della scheda madre mi si e' disattivata l'accensione automatica dopo power loss quindi non potevo accendere il computer da interruttore ali, quindi ho riconnesso il pannello frontale (magari lo lascio connesso, per vedere se il pc si riaccende da solo o meno).

La seconda foto mostra il connettore del case. Ha 9 pin (una linea con 5 una con 4).

Io l'ho connesso a sinistra, F_PANEL sul connettore e' sul lato superiore. Vedo solo 7 cavi, quindi fanno connessione i 4 pin superiori (PLED E PW) e tre dei pin inferiori (HD LED e reset).

A me sembra corretto....il pulsante cmq ha sempre funzionato (il reset non l'ho mai usato). Mi veniva da pensare non si sa mai magari ho invertito qualcosa, per quello dava problemi (di accensione per lo piu').

Questa e' una cosa cmq separata dal fatto che si spegneva da solo (si e' spento da solo anche senza il pannello collegato) ma vorrei essere sicuro.

Allora gia' anni fa mi lamentavo del fatto che si ACCENDEVA da solo (tipo WOL) e ci avevo smanettato parecchio.

Adesso senza presa wifi e SENZA pannello frontale negli ultimi giorni non si e' mai acceso da solo.

Pero' ho ancora il problema, e stavolta piu' di frequente, che si spegne da solo. Mi e' successo solo UNA volta in gioco (street fighter 6) ma negli ultimi giorni mi e' successo tipo 3 o 4 volte, ed esclusivamente in due occasioni diverse:

-shader compilation in due giochi diversi (stalker 2 e un'altra demo di steam next fest)

-caricamento in gioco (deliver us mars, gia' due volte, tra un capitolo e l'altro)

Ora discutendo con chat gpt...lei dice puo' essere un problema di EXPO.

Io in realta' non so piu' che cazzo fare. Fosse temperatura (ho oltre trenta gradi in stanza) in teoria la cpu andrebbe in throttling invece di spegnere tutto. Devo dire pero' che quest'ultima volta il liquido era a 50 gradi quando e' successo.

VRM della scheda madre? Ciabatta?

Potrei provare (non necessariamente nell'ordine):

-togliere EXPO
-aggiornare BIOS scheda madre
-rimpastare AIO
-togliere le prolunghe dei cavi dell'ali (che ho danni in due setup diversi, per puri motivi estetici) che vanno a CPU 8 pin e 24 pin ATX
-disabilitare grafica integrata processore (non mi serve mai)
-attaccare il computer invece che alla ciabatta (dove ci sono attaccati solo accessori, mica tostapane o condizionatori...) direttamente alla parete

Setup:

7800x3d
Gigabyte X670 Aorus Elite AX
Corsair Vengeance 2 x 32GB, 6000 MHz
Corsair HX 1200 watt
RTX 5090 gigabyte gaming OC

Il cavo che va alla 5090 e' originale corsair, direttamente da ali senza adattatori. Il LED bianco della scheda video non lo vedo mai acceso (vorrebbe dire non abbastanza potenza dall'ali).

Da visualizzazione eventi non capisco se si puo' racimolare qualcosa.

I got the watch itch only recently, and the only real "valuable" watch I have is a Hamilton pilot watch (42mm). I also have a nice Seiko field watch. They are both automatic.

The itch I instantly got was for a bronze watch (real bronze, not stainless steel bronze color).

While researching, I stumbled upon a 50% deal for the Maurice Lacroix Pontos S bronze / blue. I must say it was not the kind of dial I was looking for but it is kind of nice. I haven't seen this in person yet.

I always like to have a displaycase in the back but I understand with a diver it might even be counterproductive in a way and there is a reason why not many models have glass in the back.

Other bronze watches on my list (none of them are on discount and I've seen none of them in person):

- Steinhart Marine chronograph (I don't even find videos of this one, but it is on the website)
- Steinhart Ocean One Bronze (typical diver style, but I am not impressed by its details from pictures/videos)
- Christopher Ward C65 Dune bronze (nice backglass, but not a real fan of the dial)
- Hamilton Navy Scuba GMT (it does look nice but because of the black bezel, I find the bronze doesn't pop as much as in the other watches)

The Maurice kind of stood out and the blue dial would be a nice break from the other watches I have.

Since I just got the Hamilton for about a thousand, I'd splurge another thousand for the Maurice only if it is indeed a good deal (because of the 50% off....).

The other only bronze watch that really makes me go WOW is the IWC (in blue/bronze as well) but that is a different league....

I have an itch already to have something in bronze. I know the khaki field by Hamilton and there are many pictures / videos of it with patina but I struggle to find something about the Navy Scuba. I think a diver suits better the "marine" aesthetics of bronze rather than a field. I have also other brands in my radar but I thought I'd ask here about this Hamilton in particular in case somebody owns it.

The model is NANYO KMO90M3. It is the first time I feel the heat (in a bad way). I also feel bad for my cats (they are old) and sleeping is very hard as well. I've had this unit for the past 5 years, not really used regularly, I took it out only on the hottest days but right now we have hottest WEEKS.

My apartment is small and very very badly insulated (old building). Doors are not airtight, windows are good though.

First problem: hard to insulate the window I open. The windows open horizontally, I might lock the hose by closing the vertical blinds, but the windows stays cracked open by a lot (diameter of the hose at least). I know they sell zipper with velcros to mitigate this but they are not insulating. I did try to cover the cracks in the blinds (wooden blinds) with extra wood or styrofoam. I might get a thick single piece of insulating foam once to cover the window completely.

Second problem: expelled air hose gets hot even when it's short: I might want to get an insulating cover.

Third problem: I was planning to improvise a dual hose hack or even a closed circuit (by putting the unit OUTSIDE, circuit cold air and circuit hot air, minimizing noise) and here is the question: how can I, with certainty, understand which grill is for the condenser and which grill is for the evaporator?

If I cannot keep it outside (shade is missing...) at least I might improvise a way to not steal fresh air from the room and isolate that grill for the hot air circuit.

Model: Denon X3800 H. I am a bit confused here. Since I switched TV from LG oled 55 (c3) to LG OLED 77 (c5), when the TV is off, the AVR doesn't detect any display = the PC cannot use the Denon as a sound source (more screens are connected to the PC, I just don't need/want to switch on the TV just to have sound).

I know that the TV has some "always ready" function, which was a decent workaround BUT I don't need that function (uses more energy) and while having that function enabled, from time to time, if I am gaming on other screens, the main monitor will turn black because the TV is doing something in the background (while it's still "off" or "black"), maybe some pixel refresh or who knows what - means it disconnects and reconnects briefly, making the screens go dark for a few seconds - unacceptable when playing competitive games especially.

So I stay with that function turned off.

Another workaround is setting HDMI out to monitor 2 on the Denon (works even without spoofer) but the hassle is to always have to manually switch video out of the AVR, if I want sound out from the PC while the TV (hdmi out 1) is off.

I got an HDMI spoofer thinking it would work while video mode output is set to "auto" - but it didn't. What I was expecting was that since I left a spoofer on hdmi 2, while in "auto" mode the Denon would still be detected as audio device in windows, because even though the TV was off, there was another screen available (the spoofer).

This is not the case, so I am back to the beginning.

Any good option here? Never had this issue in the last almost 20 years...it started only with this LG C5 77", which, when is off, is not detected at all = the Denon has no video out = the Denon is not listed as audio device in windows.

The connection is from PC GPU hdmi to hdmi source on the AVR.

Going out in optical is not an option.

I got this 42mm new the other day with the stainless steel bracelet. I got several aliexpress straps for other watches I have, which are totally fine for the price, but for the Hamilton I wanted to go a more proper way and found this "Archer" shop in Europe. It didn't look like a dropshipper, but the straps definitely feels like a cheap Aliexpress quality.

The stitching is not even aligned, where the holes are. The strap is very thin and clashes a bit with the thickness of the watch. I remember for my fieldwatch Seiko, the nylon / canvas strap was thicker, and the watch is also much smaller (18mm strap).

It was "only" 25 euros so not a lot, but still I feel it could have been better.

Do you have another shop in Europe to recommend? On my wishlist I mostly had a leather nato strap (or even not nato) and an olive green canvas / nylon strap.

What can you tell from the pictures? Maybe I am just not experienced, I really only have original Seiko and aliexpress straps to compare to.

And again I started (tried) a game without checking whether it had achievements or not...and one achievement started basically as soon as the game loaded. This is a game that went free and wanted to try it.

Not worth it, I mean I wanted to just see if it as nice as a walking simulator...performance is super bad (I have a 5090), rain stops being rendered if you move around (you see it only if you stand still) and on top of that I have 1/22....sigh. The rest of the achievements are not easy to get either, especially considering it's not something I am going to want to play.

Questa e' la mia lista...ci vediamo stasera per vedere quali hanno il bollino roger...Valor Mortis l'ha gia' avuto.

Stalker 2 e' una bella pentola di zuppa densa e gustosa. E' sicuramente per molte cose molto acerbo / abbozzato ma una volta che sei da solo contro qualche mutante e esplori zona e edifici abbandonati (una delle mie cose preferite, come dicevo in un thread un po' di tempo fa) e' immersione totale. Mi sa che non avevo tale immersione da giochi tipo RDR2 o Skyrim/witcher 3 (un po' anche cyberpunk ma in modo diverso).

Ha un sacco di cose che pero' romponoi l'immersione tipo i cadaveri che spawnano strani e "ballano" sul suolo, o un sacco di nemici mori con i corpi dentro a panchine o mezzi sotto il pavimento, animazioni delle morti non proprio realistiche (ragdoll sbagliato, tipo), alcune facce dei personaggi vengono usate/ripetute ovunque (anche per personaggi semi-secondari), LOD molto evidente...

Come mod uso solo un reshade, photomode e mod per morti piu' realistiche (non sembra aiutare molto) e blood spatter.

Nelle fasi "calme" comunque e' uno dei migliori walking simulators ever.

This watch is quite loved in this sub so I believe it might interest some, forgive the semi-off topic post. I got the aliexpress version (3 dollars? "el luminous") a year or two ago. Used it sometimes. I liked it. Recently I saw that the "real" Casio was easily available where I live and at the moment on a pretty low price compared to usual (equivalent of 40 dollars, with metal strap) so decided to get it and compare.

The straps are additional straps I had already (the right one is NATO style).

On the left is the copy (dual time / el luminous).

The pictures tell already enough: on the original (right), the font of the numbers is different, the font prints in general are much better / less smudged, the case has better details (the fake bolts on the corners, the mini clock top left, the world map and things like this). The glass has a better impression at an angle / clarity, the viewing angle for the LCD numbers is actually the same. The functions of course are completely different: I don't think you can have real dual time on the copy, but you have a real time zone map on display on the original, working analog clock upper left corner, 5 independent alarms, stopwatch, timer, mute mode and things like that. The horizontal line on the sides (from the plastic mold I guess?) is more prominent on the original.

What I miss from the copy: customizable color for the backlight (at least 6 different colors) and the backlight is slightly more uniform (from the top left corner on the copy VS from both bottom corners on the original + the numbers turn white, which is nice).

I believe I can trust the original more if I go swimming and will surely hold up better with time.

That's it, just in case somebody is interested in such info. The copy for the price is an absolute steal, if you don't need the extra functions.

p.s. you can also tell me which strap looks better, I'll transfer it to the original one.

For reference, I already have a field watch by Seiko which I really like (cream dial). I wanted something by Hamilton and more particularly a pilot watch (not field).

My choice landed on the two day date models (one is 42mm the other 46mm). They are both khaki (arms, numbers) but I really like the dial design. Sadly I have no possibility of viewing these two models in person (not that I know of) and not possible to order and return them either.

The other choice (this one I ordered and should be able to see it in person in the shop) is the "cooper" in 42mm. I like the fact that it's not khaki but has a different dial (I like it but I might prefer the other style).

What would you do? I don't want to blindly get on of the other models used (would also need to travel to go check one out as not in the same city).

I posted the pictures with stainless steel bracelet to have a neutral comparison. I already checked on google images how they look with leather or nato straps but you are welcome to reply with a photo of yours.