So far I had three AP's and I selected channels manually evenly distributed. Now, I added AC Mesh. Should I keep it on auto or find a manual channel?
Also, I am assuming unifi uses the 5Ghz radio for mesh? I don't need 5Ghz in the mesh extended area. I could disable it. But wonder whether this breaks meshing.
I realize that there is a split between tbs, abc, hbo. But will any service have all remaining playoff games?
I recently upgraded my furnace/AC. As a result I ended up with a 4" MERV11 filter. I have the air circulation feature on (on low speed) when there is no cooling/heating.
Are now air purifiers overkill? On of my main objectives is to reduce dust in the house.
I just got a used UAP-AC-M. I did the 10s reset (a couple of times). plugged into PoE (data + power). However, it does not show "for adoption" in the unifi AP list permanently. It flashes for a split second "for adoption" and disappears and will flash again in 15 seconds or so. What is going on?
m trying to pick an air purifier for my movie room (US). The room is about 16 ft × 25 ft, so I’m looking for something with decent airflow but also a black or dark finish so it blends in. Ideally something I can place tight against a wall, so the round “tower” style models are out.
The Rabbit Air units look great but they’re way too expensive for this space. The Coway AP‑1512HH works well but the design feels a bit utilitarian for a theater room.
So I started looking at the Winix 5520 and Winix 5510. They look almost identical except for the front grille pattern. Winix’s own site lists both models, which makes it even more confusing.
Does anyone know the actual difference between the 5520 and 5510?
Is one newer, or is it just a cosmetic refresh?
I got a dual fuel amada heatpump installed last December. So far, we only used gas heat. But now we are using the heatpump for some heating and cooling.
We are now noticing a distracting hum coming out of the ducts.
What is causing this? How to get rid of it?
2200 sqft with 3T heatpump and 80kbtu 80% furnace. Has 3T coil
I like to upgrade the filter form 1" to 4" in order to reduce static pressure while using MERV11 filters.
There are several Right Angle Air HVAC filter boxes. The aprilaire 1610: https://shop.aprilaire.com/products/aprilaire-model-1610-air-purifier
Looks like a nice clean setup. Only downside is the need of proprietary filters.
There are many generic right angel models which seem more or less all the same. An example:
https://rectorseal.com/right-angle-mac-16-x-25/
I think all models are about 15.5" deep. So I would need to add a 4" offset in my return trunk to meet up. My current filter housing is 1"
I had a new Amana furnace and “suitcase‑style” heat pump installed last December. Recently I started noticing something odd with the thermostat display. Sometimes the temperature number flickers — for example, if it’s set to 73°F, I’ll see a faint ghost “7” in front of the real 7 that flickers on and off.
My thermostat is set to stay blank unless I touch it, so I don’t look at the display very often. But when I do, the flickering is noticeable.
Are there any known issues with Amana thermostats?
I have currnelty a 15 year old Siemens QSA1515SPD surge protector. On the right side with red lights, still serves as a breaker as well.
I want to upgrade to new Boltshield breaker type surge protector, believe part number for my split phase panel is: QSPD2A065P
Common sense would be to install at top position. This would require relocating top breakers to bottom (extending wires with wire nuts?) However, don't want to move the AC, and non the right side there is a logical grouping of kitchen breakers.
Are you always moving surge protector to top? What is real world impact installing in the middle?
I’m getting full‑length linen curtains and already decided on a motorized track, but I’m stuck on the header style. My options are:
Our home has a modern / ZEN aesthetic, so I want something clean and minimal. I also have limited wall space on the sides of the window, so stack‑back matters.
If you’ve used any of these header styles with motorized tracks—especially with semi‑sheer linen—what worked best for you and why? Photos or real‑world experience would be super helpful.
I have a shower with 6"x6" cermaic tiles that appear to have a thin grout lien/distance between tiles. I ma reading that people use oscillating tools for grout removal. Does this actually still work in my case? Also, what are the chances to get the tiles nicked?
I got a Blueair 511i Max (not 511+) for a home office room. Just wondering how much air it actually moves in auto. I kind of like the idea of auto, but it doe snot seem to move much air. In fact I think less than an old 411 that I have. At the same time the 511 is rated to filter much larger rooms than the 411+ Blue Pure
I have an older Hikvision WiFi camera. It always had tweak transmit. For a while I used a TP-Link extender near the camera. But it has its issues as well. I prefer a solution with Ubiquity.
Of course wring the camera with POE would be ideal but rather involved.
The camera is by the main residential entrance door on outside. Currently only one small DC wire to power it goes through the wall.
Also, the TP-Link is on a small UPS
Some electrical duct conduit sealant was stuck to a ladder foot. Now I have film of this material on floor. Just rag and water doesn’t remove it…
I have two pull-chain AC ceiling fans. Bot on a wall dimmer (fan type). So, I keep the pull chain on max. Recently, I noticed that one of the fans is making a bit of hum noise. Also, sometimes a strange start. My next thought was to replace the capacitor.
But looking at some of the online wring diagrams I started wondering whether I still need a capacitor? Could I simply remove the the pull chain switch and capacitor and wire the AC motor direct?
