u/Sea_Horse99

I have an elderly family member (+90) who lives outside Australia and receives a regular Australian pension based on her previous employment. Until 2024, she regularly received the Proof of Life Certificate (AUS061) by post every two years, usually around the end of July, however this year the form has still not arrived.

What I find particularly strange is that the PDF version of the form also seems to have disappeared from the Services Australia website. In previous years it was available here but now the page now says: "The form you're looking for is no longer available from this page.". The form also does not appear to be listed in the following sections: Centrelink forms for individuals; Forms by code for individuals; International forms for individuals, however Services Australia still refers to the Proof of Life Certificate on its website, for example Proof of Life if you’re older than 80 and live overseas though the page says: "Page last updated: 3 January 2025.".

Does anyone know if there have been any changes, news, etc. since 2024 regarding the Proof of Life Certificate?

I believe my wall-mounted monosplit air conditioner may have a refrigerant leak and I would like to visually inspect the refrigerant pipe connections on the indoor unit to check whether any oil has leaked from them. I cannot see any oil around the flared connections on the outdoor unit.

I first tried lifting the indoor unit slightly and then pulling it toward me but I have not been able to move it. What is the correct procedure for lifting or partially removing the indoor unit from its mounting plate in order to inspect the refrigerant pipe connections?

Links to videos would also be appreciated... unfortunately I have only found installation videos, not videos showing how to remove the indoor unit 😄.

I'd like some help with some calculations aimed at comparing the average daily energy consumption of two fixed wall-mounted single-split air conditioners installed in the same domestic room: one of the older fixed-speed type and the other a modern inverter type.

• For the older unit, I chose a Toshiba KFR-25GW/CX2, with a nominal cooling capacity of 2.5 kW and a running electrical input of 900 W.
• For the modern inverter unit, I chose a Mitsubishi HR25VF. The relevant specifications are a nominal cooling capacity of 2.3 kW (range 0.5–2.9 kW), PdesignC 2.5 kW, nominal electrical input 680 W, SEER 6.2, annual energy consumption 141 kWh/year, and EER 3.38 (data taken from the table on page 40 of the linked PDF).

Scenario:

• Domestic room: 20 squared meters (= 215,278 squared feet), ceiling height 2,8 m (= 9.2 feet), with a double-glazed balcony door. The sun does not directly hit the outside wall of the room, only at an oblique angle.
• Heavy occupancy: the room serves as living room, kitchen, and bedroom.

Cooling-load assumptions
I would assume a base cooling load of 700 W. However, it is also necessary to consider periods of higher demand, particularly when cooking. I would set the peak cooling demand at lunchtime, because cooking takes place inside the room and this coincides with the peak outdoor heat load. I assume a peak cooling load of 1.75 kW lasting 2 hours, while during dinner preparation, I would assume a cooling load of 1.5 kW lasting 1 hour.
21 h/day: base cooling load = 700 W
2 h at lunchtime: cooling load = 1.75 kW
1 h at dinner: cooling load = 1.50 kW
The air conditioner therefore needs to remove the following amount of heat per day: Q = 21 × 0.7 + 2 × 1.75 + 1.5 = 14.7 + 3.5 + 1.5 = 19.7 kWh/day, with an average cooling load over 24 hours: 19.7 / 24 = 821 W.

Toshiba
Nominal cooling capacity = 2,500 W
Running electrical input = 900 W
Nominal EER: 2500 / 900 = 2.778
- Base period: 700 W for 21 hours
Duty cycle: 700 / 2500 = 0.28
The compressor therefore needs to run for 28% of those 21 hours: 21 × 0.28 = 5.88 hours
Energy consumption: 5.88 × 0.9 = 5.292 kWh
- Lunchtime: 1.75 kW for 2 hours
Duty cycle: 1750 / 2500 = 0.70
The compressor therefore needs to run for 70% of those 2 hours: 2 × 0.70 = 1.40 hours
Energy consumption: 1.40 × 0.9 = 1.26 kWh
- Dinner: 1.50 kW for 1 hour
Duty cycle: 1500 / 2500 = 0.60
The compressor therefore needs to run for 60% of that hour: 0.60 hours
Energy consumption: 0.60 × 0.9 = 0.54 kWh
-> Total: 5.292 + 1.26 + 0.54 = 7.092 kWh/day. As a precaution, I would define a range with an upper allowance of +25%: 7.1 – 8.9 kWh/day

Mitsubishi
The inverter should theoretically be able to follow the cooling load (700 – 1750 W) without having to continuously operate in an on/off manner. Since the PDF does not provide the electrical input at 700 W, 1.5 kW, and 1.75 kW of cooling capacity, I can only model hypothetical scenarios by assuming that the EER remains constant at 3.38.
- Base: 700 W × 21 h
Electrical input: 0.7 / 3.38 = 0.2071 kW
Energy consumption: 0.2071 × 21 = 4.35 kWh
- Lunchtime: 1.75 kW × 2 h
Electrical input: 1.75 / 3.38 = 0.5178 kW
Energy consumption: 0.5178 × 2 = 1.036 kWh
- Dinner: 1.50 kW × 1 h
Electrical input: 1.5 / 3.38 = 0.444 kW
Energy consumption: 0.4438 kWh
-> Total: 4.35 + 1.036 + 0.444 = 5.83 kWh/day, assuming constant EER. Again, I would define a range with an upper allowance of +25%: 5.83–7.3 kWh/day

The result of this comparison, which I hope is not too speculative or incorrect, is that the Toshiba consumes approximately 22% more energy than the Mitsubishi, or equivalently, the inverter uses approximately 18% less energy than the fixed-speed unit.
Do you think my reasoning and calculations are correct or incorrect?
Is it possible to perform better calculations that would more accurately reflect the scenario described above?
Have there been any studies, experiments, measurements, etc. comparing two systems of this type under the same operating conditions?

I am considering getting an old Toshiba wall-mounted monosplit A/C system working and I would like your help in working out the best strategy to estimate the minimum possible repair cost.

The unit is about 20 yo but has never been used. Recently I tried to start it but it only blows room-temperature air, not cold air, even though the outdoor fan is running correctly. I called a technician for a diagnosis and he told me that the compressor is working properly, there are no electrical issues, but the system static pressure is zero, so there is no refrigerant left. According to him, it is very likely that there is a leak somewhere. He said the circuit must be pressurized with nitrogen to locate the leak, then the leak must be repaired, then the system must undergo another nitrogen pressure test, and only after that can it be recharged. At this point, it is up to me to decide whether it is worth it.

This is my step-by-step strategy to minimize the repair cost and stop in time if the expense starts to grow too much:

• - have the technician pressurize the system with nitrogen to look for leaks;
• - I am ruling out a long-duration nitrogen leak test (24 h), because it would cost too much;
• -- if, immediately after nitrogen pressurization, there are leaks at easily accessible and repairable points, for example flare joints and fittings, then I tell the technician to repair those leaks, and that should cost relatively little;
• -- if, on the other hand, no leak is immediately visible at easily accessible and repairable points, but the gauges show a clear pressure drop, then it means the leak is in a hard-to-reach area (valves, coils, etc.), and I would give up;
• - the technician pressurizes the system with nitrogen again for the post-repair leak test;
• -- if the gauges show a pressure drop immediately, then besides the leak that was repaired at the accessible point, there must be at least one additional leak in a hard-to-reach area, and I would give up, losing only the cost of the repair of the first leak;
• - the technician performs the refrigerant recharge;
• -- if the electronic leak detector later finds a microleak at an easily accessible point (flare joint, fitting, etc.), that was not repaired because the nitrogen test did not show an obvious leak immediately, then I would give up, because otherwise I would have to start all over again.

Do you think this is the best step-by-step strategy to spend as little as possible while taking the minimum amount of risk to get this A/C running, given that it has never been operated in 15-20 years?
My maximum budget is 250-300 euros. The alternative is to buy and install a new unit, and the sure quote I have is 950 euros.

Il mio vecchio climatizzatore fisso è guasto (probabilmente una perdita di gas r407c da cercare e riparare). Ho contattato un paio di negozi che fanno vendita e riparazione di climatizzatori, hanno mandato i loro rispettivi tecnici e la storia è sempre quella: prima mi fanno mille problemi per la ricerca della perdita, che porterà via ore e quindi è economicamente controproducente per una macchina tanto datata, poi la superofferta della vendita ed installazione del nuovo climatizzatore. Ormai mi sono rassegnato che questo dei climatizzatori è diventato un business conseguente il boom delle richieste di questi ultimi anni, ed a nessuno di questi tecnici interessa riparare, visto che guadagnano molto di più con l'installazione, tanto che ho anche la preoccupazione che farebbero dei pessimi lavori.

Esiste una figura professionale che ripari climatizzatori ma non interessata a venderli a cui mi posso rivolgere per far eseguire un lavoro serio?

Ho provato a cercare "frigorista" ma mi sembra che si occupino solo di macchine industriali o per attività commerciali.

Sto valutando di fare causa ad una persona con cui condivido una palazzina ma sarebbe la mia prima volta. E' molto probabile che debba essere redatta una relazione tecnica (geometra o ingegnere), inoltre sarebbe opportuno far redigere una scala millesimale poichè ciò che chiedo è la sua quota per una spesa in comune.

Ciò che vorrei sapere è: se vinco, posso ottenere il risarcimento di tutte le spese che ho sostenuto o una parte di esse? Per es. la parcella del mio avvocato per intero, il denaro speso per la perizia tecnica, per far redigere la scala millesimale, etc., almeno nella percentuale di cui ai millesimi della mia controparte? Oppure va tutto a discrezione del giudice?

La mia famiglia è proprietaria di un appartamento all'ultimo piano di una palazzina di 3 livelli, ciascuno con un proprietario differente, senza amministratore nè scala millesimale. Gli altri 2 immobili sono accatastati rispettivamente come magazzino (piano terra) e garage (piano interrato). Da ora gestisco io e devo far eseguire la pulizia delle grondaie perchè l'ultima volta è stata 5 anni fa e c'è il rischio che, quando inizieranno le piogge, mi entri l'acqua nel soffitto a causa delle grondaie otturate, come purtroppo è già successo molti anni fa, arrecando danni agli interni, che sono attualmente visibili.

Essendo il tetto a comune, ovvero non c'è scritto sul nostro rogito che sia di nostra esclusiva pertinenza, credo se ne possa imporre la ripartizione delle spese per la manutenzione tra i 3 proprietari/condomini della palazzina. Il proprietario del garage ha dato disponibilità a mettere una quota ma i 2 comproprietari del magazzino a piano terra no. Aggiungo che questi soggetti che non vogliono pagare hanno una ditta che fa anche questo lavoro, cioè puliscono le grondaie, ma sono rinomati come pessimi lavoratori e non voglio affidare loro questo incarico. Il preventivo della ditta "seria" a cui abbiamo chiesto io e quello del garage è sui 1000 euro e, ripartendo le spese in base alle rendite catastali (ripeto che non c'è scala millesimale), la quota dei 2 comproprietari che non vogliono pagare sarebbe attorno ai 450 euro.

Sto valutando di fare causa a questi 2 del piano terra, non tanto per i soldi, ma per farli abituare che adesso che gestisco io il primo piano devono iniziare a pagare i lavori in comune perchè, dai racconti dei miei familiari, emerge che è da circa 40 anni che non pagano nulla in casi analoghi (spese tetto). In altre parole la finalità di questa eventuale causa sarebbe di servire loro da "lezione" soprattutto per il futuro (ovvero altri lavori in comune al tetto, sottotetto, grondaie, etc.)

Aggiungo che, sempre dai racconti dei miei familiari, si evince che l'attuale grondaia da pulire è stata installata circa 20 anni fa ed è stata posizionata troppo in alto, oltre al fatto che è stata pagata interamente dai miei familiari e senza interpellare gli altri proprietari della palazzina, inoltre non è stata emessa fattura da parte di chi l'ha installata.

Queste sono le mie domande:

• La domanda più importante: se vinco la causa, posso obbligare la controparte a risarcirmi di tutte le spese sostenute, ovvero il mio avvocato, eventuali perizie tecniche, etc.? Oppure ciò va a discrezione del giudice e dunque non è sicuro?
• La probabilità di vincere è alta?
• Quanto tempo dura mediamente una causa del genere?
• Quali sono gli "appigli" più verosimili a cui la controparte (i 2 comproprietari) si potrebbe aggrappare per vincere? Ciò che a me desta più preoccupazione in tal senso è la grondaia installata male da parte nostra, benchè forse la controparte ignori che non sia quella originale.
• Se si convoca assemblea ed i 2 comproprietari si presentano adducendo che ci pensano loro ma io ed il tizio dell'interrato rifiutiamo, procediamo a far fare il lavoro alla ditta "seria" e poi faccio causa per chiede loro la loro quota, vincerò o potranno addurre qualche scusante?
• Se vinco ma la controparte non vuole comunque pagare, che si fa? La mia preoccupazione è che questi 2 anziani comproprietari del magazzino, nel frattempo, vadano in pensione liquidando la loro ditta e trasferendo tutta la liquidità a mogli/figli, così un domani potrebbero risultare con un patrimonio nullo o quasi, ovvero nel caso peggiore risulterebbero pensionati nullatenenti. In tale caso che succede? Si possono pignorare i quinti delle loro pensioni in questi casi?

E' opportuno/necessario che mi rivolga ad un avvocato specifico, per es. esperto di diritto immobiliare?

Se, tutto considerato, non vale la pena, cioè non ho certezza di non andarci sotto con le spese anche volendo aspettare i tempi della causa (vedi domanda 1), come potrei risolvere, questa situazione ed altre analoghe future, in cui uno o più condomini non vogliono pagare spese in comune, avendo certezza di non rimetterci soldi?

I have a Toshiba fixed split-system air conditioner using R407C refrigerant. It has never been used and is approximately 15 years old. I recently tried starting it up, but the indoor unit is only blowing room-temperature air. I checked the outdoor unit and the fan is running normally. At this point, I think the most likely explanation is that the system has developed a refrigerant leak over the years and has lost most or all of its refrigerant charge.

I'd like to ask for your opinion on this audio recording. I recorded it at the outdoor unit after removing the plastic top cover. Does the compressor sound like it is running normally, or does anything sound abnormal to you?

What tests or checks could I carry out to determine whether the problem is simply a refrigerant leak rather than something else?

I'm thinking about buying one of those pen-style ear cameras with interchangeable tips for ear wax removal and I'd like to hear from people who have actually used them. I'm only considering the middle-to-top consumer models, anyway not professional equipment, and at the moment I'm trying to decide between the Bebird set and the Anykit set. Both ones connect to a smartphone, but the Bebird uses Wi-Fi while the Anykit connects via USB cable.

Here are my questions:

• What are the pros and cons of these different connection methods? For example, I came across this Reddit comment saying that the Bebird app doesn't seem to have good long-term support, so people eventually end up with a device they can no longer use. Does that mean the USB-based Anykit is likely to be a better long-term choice? What has your experience been?
• Some of these pen-style microcamera (like this one) are sold together with a set of traditional ear wax removal tools that cannot be attached to the camera itself, so I assume they're meant to be used separately, essentially "blind." Are those tools actually useful?
• I think a tweezers attachment could be particularly useful. Besides the detachable one available for the Bebird, I've also found some models with built-in tweezers like this one. My impression is that models with integrated tweezers are more limiting, since you can't swap in other attachments. Do you agree?

Any recommendations, experiences or suggestions are very welcome :)

Although I don't live in Germany, I've been receiving repeated call attempts for quite some time from a number with the German mobile prefix +49 175 720***. At first, I assumed it was just another telemarketing or spam call, however after a while the same number started calling at all hours of the day and night, which has become quite unsettling since I've never known anyone who lives in Germany. I have no intention of answering the calls. Although I also own a smartphone, I use an old Nokia feature phone as my everyday phone, so unfortunately I can't block numbers. I've already searched the number on Google, but found nothing, and it doesn't appear on Tellows either.
I'm not an expert, but afaik caller number can be spoofed, so I'm not even sure the caller is actually in Germany.

I'm posting here to ask whether anyone has experienced something similar, possibly even involving the same phone number, and to get some advice on what the best course of action would be. For example, is there any way to determine whether this is actually a scam without interacting with the caller? If the only way to find out is to answer or call back, would calling the number from a hidden caller ID be a reasonable way to determine whether it's a scam?

For almost a year now, I've been receiving repeated calls from a German mobile number (+49) even though I don't live in Germany. At first, I assumed it was just another spam call or a call center, but the caller has been trying to reach me at all hours of the day and night. I have no intention of answering. I've already searched the number on Google but I couldn't find any information about it.

Is there a subreddit where I can ask whether anyone else has been contacted by the same number?

My main concern is how to identify the number without violating Reddit's privacy rules. I assume I shouldn't post the full phone number. Besides the country code, how many of the remaining 10 digits should I redact at a minimum to comply with Reddit's rules on posting personal information?