
What is this, a spicy pillow for ants?
New meaning to the word "milliamp"

New meaning to the word "milliamp"
Not to say this is necessarily a bad artist, but damn...
I went through a special k phase last year, but it honestly seemed kind of defective. There were kind of a lot of really hard pieces that didn't crunch at all. I mean maybe not every single bite but most of them. Looking back I'm surprised I didn't break a tooth.
Anyone else a traditionalist like me and notice how bad it's been? It was such a good cereal but really ruined by the hard pieces. I've switched to granola for a while, and before that was in a Great Grains era but dang I miss just a stupid simple low sweetness cereal that's actually good for you, cheap, and not crazy loaded with fiber.
Say goodbye to these bikes that will be chopped up and turned into "art bikes" tomorrow. Quite a few things about the co op that have been bumming me out lately. I put the mint Trek tandem behind lock and key.
Supposedly these will do 5 amps. I'm wondering if they would be fine doing higher like closer to 10, if it were for literally a seconds or 2 occasionally, and the rest of the time not used at all. Anyone have an opinion on this specific chip? Or can you tell me a way to calculate this, based on the schematic? It would be at 12v if that matters.
We all know that fundamentally aluminum is softer and wears faster than steel, but recently I've realized that a lot of the common cheap steel chainrings are a lot thinner than aluminum ones, and don't really seem to last that long. Am I making sense? Has anyone else noticed this?
It also occurs to me that with a thinner gear, it might put more wear on the chain since the pressure is uneven on the rollers. Does that make sense or not so much? Let me know your thoughts, thanks!
https://www.instagram.com/reel/DYHSfV6goRx/
Too bad it's full of ancient dead bugs
Saw these 2 having a standoff on my kitchen counter. Not sure if they're about to come to blows or if they're showing mutual respect for another.
Like the title says... I was (very stupidly I know) playing with an arduino and left it plugged into a 2nd power source while plugging it into my laptop (Dell e5470) Turned out to be 9v AC. The arduino seems to be dead, and I remember my laptop screen going black when this happened. But that could've just been a power saving function because I hadn't touched it for a few minutes.
The main thing it's doing now is struggling to come out of standby. I will wait a few minutes and I have to hit the power button to put it back into standby, then it seems to power on happily in a few seconds. Weirdly, the USB port in question seems to work fine.
Are there tests I can run or anything to check on to see if there is damage to the hardware? Check voltage output of the USB port? I'm not much of a software person, should I use windows "event log" (I forget if that's what it's called).
Thanks!
I've never really seen amp or voltage ratings on pots, do the little (top) ones tend to have lower ratings than the bigger (bottom) ones? Thinking of swapping a bigger one for a smaller one on an amp.
Also, the top ones say "single" in the listing, is there something I'm missing or aren't all 6 pin potentiometers pretty much double?
I have some purple rit dye and some kind of fancy black. Definitely want it significantly darker, and not too purple, like a greyish purple. Any tips, tricks, guides would be lovely. I was kind of thinking of just following the basic directions but using half the recommended amount of dye.
Just wanted to post this interesting bike I built a few years ago it originally had drop bars and 27" wheels. Otherwise original. Was unfortunately a long frame for how short it was so not very suitable for smaller riders. Cleared 37c tires no problem.
There is a bike wheel chart similar to this one, which is clearly pretty mediocre, at the co op where I teach. (This is the "road" section of the chart) Does anyone have a wheel size chart that they like more?
I'm also open to ideas. It would be great if there was an easy way to show what is likely to be printed on the rim/tire and to show that most of this is not really something that can be easily measured. Without going into detail explaining "nominal" sizing etc. Although they are high school kids so I can probably make them read a couple sentences.
Got a flat on a Radwagon 3 I bought a few months ago. Flipped it over to start taking the tire off and see this. This is just fishing line or something that got wrapped around? It’s not wiring or anything? Battery is disconnected but don’t want to just start cutting if it’s supposed to be there.
It’s between the hub and the rotor
Thanks team
Also help how do I service old rock shox
Hey guys. I currently have 2 frames that I'm considering upgrading to 1.5kw. One is a rad runner, the other is a random full suspension frame.
I do have a Fox air shock for it that will probably work, but unfortunately the fork is pretty garbage and the other forks I have are not dual crown (AKA triple tree) they seem to put the steering at too steep an angle on that bike.
Given I can get a suspension fork for the rad runner, would you recommend it over the other frame for up to 35mph? I have not ridden an ebike over 20mph yet. The other frame is a "movcan" full steel. I am not sure it feels necessary for just 1.5kw.
I have an old kindle 3, and I've seen people get original gameboy games to work which is awesome. But are there any graphical games written specifically for e ink displays like this?
I was thinking that a spooky top down platformer could actually look really cool and spooky with some of the graphical stuff that happens with a full screen refresh. Obviously there are the limitations, like turn based gameplay is necessary. But I'm hoping there are some developers who like to work within limitations, often it's a great way to learn and grow.
If not I may try to take this on myself.