For stock height where do I cut them? First ring? Or could someone with intact bump stops measure them please? I've already broken one inner fender, time to fix it

Good afternoon all

wow, I can't believe it's football/hockey season already. However, as such I'm now reminded of a problem that I've had with Google Calendar for several years now. I have several calendars that I've selected via this method

Add or remove sports calendars

1. On your computer, open Google Calendar
2. At the top right, click Settings Settings.
3. Under “Add calendar,” click Browse calendars of interest.
4. Scroll to the “Sports” section.
5. Select a sports category.
6. Check or uncheck the box next to a sports team to add their game schedule to your calendar.

including one for my favorite football team and another for my favorite hockey team. I think I also have the one for US holidays and another for something else. (my apologies for not posting a link; I originally did but the automoderator removed my post and I'm not sure why.) This is from the Google Calendar help page, answer no. 13748650.

The problem is, the events show on a web browser, but when I use the Calendar app on my phone they're not there, nor do I get any notifications. I know I missed a couple games I wanted to watch last year because I wasn't checking on my PC at work; I was, you know, working. Events that I've created myself, like bill reminders, payday schedules, and one-off events show and report on my phone fine, just the actual Google "alternate calendars" do not work.

The odd thing is that I have replaced my phone since last season and I'm still having the same issue. Both are Android phones, old is Motorola Edge+ 2022 and the new one is a Samsung Galaxy S25 Edge (similarity in names is completely coincidental, I was just looking for a decent non-flip phone both times)

Thanks for any advice you can offer.

Good afternoon all

wow, I can't believe it's football/hockey season already. However, as such I'm now reminded of a problem that I've had with Google Calendar for several years now. I have several calendars that I've selected via this method

support.google.com/calendar/answer/13748650

including one for my favorite football team and another for my favorite hockey team. I think I also have the one for US holidays and another for something else.

The problem is, the events show on a web browser, but when I use the Calendar app on my phone they're not there, nor do I get any notifications. I know I missed a couple games I wanted to watch last year because I wasn't checking on my PC at work; I was, you know, working. Events that I've created myself, like bill reminders, payday schedules, and one-off events show and report on my phone fine, just the actual Google "alternate calendars" do not work.

The odd thing is that I have replaced my phone since last season and I'm still having the same issue. Both are Android phones, old is Motorola Edge+ 2022 and the new one is a Samsung Galaxy S25 Edge (similarity in names is completely coincidental, I was just looking for a decent non-flip phone both times)

Thanks for any advice you can offer.

Got a pinhole in a metal coolant line behind my engine and it's apparently NLA from VW and my mechanic has been trying to source for several weeks. I'd really like to start driving it again because my Jeep needs some front end work...

If you have a 1.8T parts car let me know and I can have him mark on the diagram what exact pipe he's looking for. I'm in Baltimore/BWI area.

Got a letter in the mail today, ironically the same day I finally got a CLI on my Discover and took it over $10k.  I have a CFU with a CL of $26,500 and it's also my oldest open card at 19 years (it's not, really, but for some reason my BoA card says I opened it in 2012 when in reality I've been with them for about a decade longer, but that's irrelevant right now.)

In part, the letter says blah blah blah "we noticed that your overall card usage with Chase and other issuers is low.  Because of this, we may lower your credit limit to $13,250.00 in 50 days.  If you anticipate a change in your spending needs, you can opt out of the review by contacting us at the number" blah blah blah.

Now the truth is, I hardly ever use this card so $13,500 would really be fine, but I don't want to lose the CL because I am still possibly overly optimistic that I might be able to find a nice house that I can afford, and I'm trying to keep my credit as buffed as possible.

My question is, what should I do?  Should I take the CLD or is there any possible negative action they could take if I opted out of the review?  Not sure what the best course of action is here as this hasn't happened to me before.  It's kind of a gut punch after spending the last 3 years on a targeted mission to get my credit all shiny, and just in the past week or two I've both got all three FICO 8s over 800 and also broken an almost 2 year streak of CLI denials with Discover.  I also only have really three remaining action items that I want to do with my credit; 1) get my APR down to the advertised minimum on my AmEx BCE (they won't re-evaluate until I'm out of my 0% introductory APR which lasts another month or thereabouts) and 2) get my CLs on my Citi Double Cash and Costco Visa over $10k, they're currently at $7k and $5k respectively.

Any knowledge and guidance is appreciated.

Needed some more 40w non frosted for a porch light and THEY are on online clearance for $5.55 at Target. I just ordered the last pair from my local store. This after this happened last week.

https://www.reddit.com/r/lightbulbs/s/rZMkzHFJI6

I bought this mouse a little over a week ago, figuring for $60 I couldn't go wrong (there is an active 25% off code right now on HP's web site if you want to order; so it is almost as cheap now even with tax) and quite honestly I'm impressed. The thumb scroll is perfect, unlike Logitech who seems to keep putting it in an ergonomically worse location with every generation. I typically don't use the forward and back buttons so I don't care about those, but I don't mind where they are. The little pinky shelf lip is nice but IMHO it could be bigger as I tend to use my middle finger on the right button and move my pointer back and forth between the left button and the scroll wheel. I'm sure that this is an artifact of having started using mice when they only had two buttons and no wheel; if I used my middle finger on the wheel and ring finger on the right button, it'd be perfect. I hate my pinky dragging on the mouse pad, but the only mouse I've used that avoids this is an old Saitek Cyborg R.A.T. 7 which while ergonomically great just didn't work with any of my preferred mouse surfaces. Maybe someday I'll come back to the R.A.T. series (now Mad Catz) and see if their sensors are any better. But, I needed a new mouse and figured I'd give this one a try.

Anyway, I'd started this thread a while back

https://www.reddit.com/r/MouseReview/comments/1v2yigu/hp_785m_state_of_charge_indicator/

didn't get any real answers. BUT - I have found a sheet that explains stuff. Today I took a little break from Real Work (tm) and installed the software for the mouse. That was fun in and of itself - there's no link on HP's product page, but here's what you have to do

go to the "Microsoft Store". Search for "HP Accessory Center". Install that software.

I dunno what you do for Mac or Linux. I am guessing they don't have a Linux version anyway :/

Anyway, from within that software, there is a link to the "manual" (really a short instruction sheet) on the bottom right of the window. here's the document

https://ftp.hp.com/pub/hpac/Docs/HP%2078xM%20Ultra-Fast%20Scroll%20Mouse%20001.pdf

and an explanation of the LED.

6 Power light

White (5 s): The mouse is on.

Solid amber: The mouse is charging.

Blinking amber: The mouse needs to be charged.

Solid white: The mouse is fully charged and connected to power.

This is not an obvious LED; it is in the little open space between the two mouse buttons, behind the scroll wheel and in front of the scroll mode button. I'd only seen the solid white when plugged into USB previously when I charged it up before use; apparently it was still "fully charged" out of the box. I did just try it now and yes it lit up white for 5 seconds after turning it on. There is a state of charge indicator on the application window and it says it's 80% now after a week or so of work day use; I just plugged into a USB cable and sure enough it lit amber, but changed to white before I finished typing this sentence. So, I assume that it will blink amber when it is low on charge, although I really wish HP had provided some kind of more obvious notification when the state of charge gets low, because in my normal seating position, I cannot see that LED. I like the way Logitech did it where I'd get a red LED on the side of the mouse facing me, so if I glanced at it with my hand off of it it'd be pretty obvious. Also, I type pretty fast, so the ultracapacitor really does charge pretty quickly. Don't know how accurate the state of charge in the app is because I've yet to run it out of charge and it's now apparently back to 100% after being plugged in for ~30 seconds or so. So that's pretty cool. If it *is* accurate, I'm guessing it will only need to be charged once a month or so in my normal use.

Well, anyway, there's that then. Other than disliking the LED and wishing that there was a larger pinky shelf, I haven't really found anything objectionable about this mouse yet. I apparently have been using it for exactly a week now, I'll report back if I have any more thoughts. So far, for a guy whose workday consists of mainly bouncing between AutoCAD, Bluebeam, Excel, and occasionally Word, this is quite decent and I may decide I even like it better than my MX Master 3. I definitely like the thumb wheel position better.

not sure what I'm doing wrong here

I really thought about this for a while before reporting it. I hate being that guy, I don't want people to get fined when they're really trying, but there's an alley a couple blocks from me and it's not only full of trash and recycling, but there's a pile of trash that I can see from the street I take every morning that's literally been there for months. I finally reported it last week and my report was closed the next day "**Work completed:**The debris was cleared. The City appreciates your patience and will continue to strive to serve city residents in a timely manner."

I just reported it again because nothing has changed. This time I mentioned the general loose trash and recycling the whole length of the alley as well.

I also tried to call in a road repair request because there's some railroad tracks near me that have always been bad but now they're downright dangerous, if you took them in a normal car at 25 MPH in the left lane northbound, you could either damage your car or bite through your tongue. I had to call because I was unable to put in the request from the web site, the lady on the phone said that that location was Anne Arundel County (it's not.) She did actually put in a request but the number she gave me does not work when I try to check status.

Am I just causing myself frustration? Is there some wording I need to use to get action on my requests?

I just bought a used Acurus DIA-100 Mk2 that doesn't work simply for the faceplate. I have one that I've had for a few years that I found in a thrift store for $25 but the face was completely sheared off. Some very minor repairs and it sounded great the last time I had it hooked up, through some Rectilinear III lowboys. I also bought the matching P10 phono preamp, that I paid a little more for than $25 sadly. This unit wasn't cheap but was about half the price of what a working, complete one seems to go for so I figure I'm still ahead and now I have the basis for another stereo.

what would be your nearfield listening setup at work?

Choice 1: Acurus DIA-100 Mk2 and maybe the P10 if I go nuts and decide to bring a turntable to work.

Choice 2 (what's there now): Adcom GFP-555ii and GFA-535ii. Honestly this is pretty satisfying. Main source is an Oppo BDP-105 usually operating as a USB DAC (but also sometimes as a disc spinner) and that would be consistent no matter what the preamp/amp. I also have a Sangean HDT-1x there but it doesn't do shit because my office is a Faraday cage and I've never been slow enough to run an antenna.

Choice 3: something vintage, maybe my Sansui 2000A aka "old faithful" because it might not be the best unit I own, but when something goes down and I need tunes, it always works and sounds good. Also I've never Deoxited the controls so they feel amazing. I assume they're filled with silicone grease.

Choice 4: I go completely bonkers and set up my H.H. Scott 340b. Which would be insane as it is regularly 75F or warmer in my office. But it seems a shame to have such a nice unit just hiding in my closet.

Choice 5: the Harman/Kardon 700 series stereo from American Psycho. (but with the HK775 monoblocks) I'd have to get a copy of Sports on CD though. I don't own that.

Choice 6: Luxman TP-117 plus what amp? Adcom or H/K? (I could set up a Zone 2 in a friend's office though which would be silly as heck) I don't have a Luxman amp although the Adcom matches it stylistically. I'm really proud of this one, this was a thrift store find and I puzzled out not only a bad op amp on one of the tape inputs, but I also figured out how to get it working with a universal remote to control any non-Luxman components I want from a Zone 2. I had it working with the Oppo for a while in my dining rom years ago and it was a cool setup (with the H/K amps) I also reverse engineered the control cable and actually made one so I can control a contemporary Luxman cassette deck from it.

Yes, I might have a problem. I hit thrift stores and FBMP too much and have a problem resisting underpriced stereo gear. I need to cull some but I actually kind of have an attachment to all the ones that I've brought back from the dead; all I've listed above have had repairs done and I'm proud of that. Most of them even by Yours Truly as I try to be as handy as possible.

Now that I've typed all that out I'm really tempted to do the American Psycho stereo to see who gets it. Is that silly? I even have the HK400xm cassette deck that I bought separately because I can. Not the one that is of the same series as the preamp and amps, but the one that Patrick Bateman had in the movie. Hey, it's a good deck. Yes, I went and deliberately bought a vintage cassette deck for basically a sight gag. Nobody ever accused me of being perfectly sane.

Also, what do I do with two DIA-100 Mk2s?

1. put the faceplate and any nicer parts from the busted one on the working one, chuck the rest in the trash

2. as above but try to reproduce the faceplate (I actually have the skills to recreate the graphics now that I have it in my hands, and also the connections to do silkscreening on metal, although I may not be able to do it in black or add the groove down the middle) then try to fix the busted one and make it work too and pass it on to someone as a starter unit with my repro faceplate.

3. other?

I feel like 1) is the sensible option but it kills me to do it.

Well, I owe an apology to whoever said I should have bought more of the Ultra Definition bulbs at Home Depot while they were on "in store clearance" for $9/4. I bought two packs and had three bulbs on the shelf and thought that was enoough. Over the weekend I had two more of the Feit Costco bulbs go, they haven't even been in for two years. And I stopped to grab another pack after work and... GASP... they're gone!

There are NO non-smart Philips bulbs on the shelf in HD, and no space for them. All they sell is a lot of Ecosmart with a little space for the specialty Feit bulbs.

I did buy a "40W Edison" Feit bulb as I picked up a new fixture for outside the front door and I didn't have a bulb for it. I hope it lasts longer than the Costco variable color temp ones. Those have soured me on Feit and convinced me that the extra $$ for Philips was worth it even for non dimming applications.

I guess I'm going to have to start going to Target when I need more light bulbs.

HD, WHY? you literally had the finest available generic frosted "60W" light bulb and you decided to stop carrying it?

Is there one?

have been googling, do not see where there is one. Kind of a big oversight on what's supposed to be a MX Master competitor.

Just got it, will take it to work tomorrow and see how it does.

Is there one?

have been googling, do not see where there is one. Kind of a big oversight on what's supposed to be a MX Master competitor.

Just got it, will take it to work tomorrow and see how it does.

Good morning

For a few months now I've been using a S25 Edge, bought used. I've had no problems at all with it except for one.

When I drive, I have the phone in a car cradle that has a wireless charger. I'm always running Waze while I'm driving. A significant amount of the time, after I get out of the car, I'll find that while I thought the phone was locked, it's doing things while in my pants pocket. e.g. one morning it called my housemate on some app that I never use. Last night after I got home it started trying to set an alarm.

This morning when I got to work, I deliberately paid attention to the phone as I took it out of the cradle. Sequence of ops: exit Waze, push side button to lock phone. I then took the phone out of the cradle, and the lock screen lit up (presumably because it now recognized that it'd stopped charging.) I pressed the side button again to make the screen dark, and held it for a second to watch to make sure nothing odd happened. I put it in my pants pocket and walked into my office and while walking to my desk I heard beeping from my pocket. I pulled my phone out and sure enough the screen was on and it was trying to make a phone call (wasn't unlocked though, it was on the "emergency call" screen).

I don't seem to have this happen any other time, e.g. if I just pick the phone up off a coffee table or nightstand and put it in my pocket, nothing happens. Only when I've been driving and the phone was in the car cradle.

am I doing something wrong here? Is there a setting I need to fix? I've been carrying smart phones in my left pants pocket for ~15 years now and never had this number of "incidents" like this until I got this S25 Edge.

I have an iPhone SE for work that lives in the same pocket, and I treat it the exact same way except I don't put it in a car cradle (but sometimes will charge it while driving if I need to) and don't use it for Waze typically. I haven't ever had a single incident like this with that phone.

If it makes any difference I have a screen protector and a Spigen case, much like all of this phone's predecessors.

thanks for any advice!

Noticed last night while shopping at the Orange Colored Store for a back porch light for a rental house that the Philips Ultra Definition frosted 60W bulbs - that is, if I were to pick a currently available default light bulb, this would be it - are on "in store clearance" at my local Home Depot. (I looked on the web site, they are still $14/4 if you order them, but $9/4 at my local store) Of course when I go back tonight I'm going to grab a pack or two, but why would they be on clearance? Anyone have any knowledge?

Subject says all

I've searched and none of the solutions work

I just want to see if an edit I made shows up

WME says it's done a tile build but my destination is still not showing up when I search for it.

Samsung Galaxy S25 Edge, Android 16, Waze 5.20

Good morning

I have an old Blackburn Air Tower 3 floor pump which works, but the head doesn't (rubber is hard, won't push on far enough to depress core. I know the pump works because I just used it to blow up a football.) Full disclosure, I probably bought it in a thrift store for $5 or thereabouts.

I can buy a new one for $30 but that offends me

Blackburn appears to be now part of Bell and enshittified

can anyone recommend a replacement head or rebuild kit that will fit? Or better yet a pump that uses standard NPT hoses and fittings so I'm not stuck scratching my head and just buy one pump for life?

thanks!

So I got my new Tajima lenses in an old pair of Randolph frames and I couldn't be happier. I don't know if it really is that they are more "optically clear" or they just nailed both the prescription and install but I had about zero adjustment period once I got them. Have worn them morning and evening the last two days and I consider it money well spent.

BUT... they came with a military semi hard case, much like your typical Ray-Ban case. I would be carrying these in my laptop bag consistently and don't want them to get damaged. Is the original case OK or should I buy something else? If so, what? I'm using a cheap plastic case right now that some Payne or Zenni glasses came in and I'm not sure if I trust it, but at the same time I don't want to bust up the military case.

Any advice appreciated.