u/ElmartoArt

I came up with the concept and generated the initial 3D model, then refined it in Blender and added cavities for small neodymium magnets.

I printed the pieces on a resin 3D printer, removed all the supports, carefully sanded the surfaces, and fully cured them under a UV lamp. After that, I applied primer, painted each piece with an airbrush, and sealed everything with Mr. Hobby matte clear coat.

The magnets allow the pieces to be rearranged on a computer case, refrigerator, or any other metal surface, creating the illusion that one long worm is crawling through the object.

I came up with the concept and generated the initial 3D model, then refined it in Blender and added cavities for small neodymium magnets.

I printed the pieces on a resin 3D printer, removed all the supports, carefully sanded the surfaces, and fully cured them under a UV lamp. After that, I applied primer, painted each piece with an airbrush, and sealed everything with Mr. Hobby matte clear coat.

The magnets allow the pieces to be rearranged on a computer case, refrigerator, or any other metal surface, creating the illusion that one long worm is crawling through the object.

I designed and resin-printed these magnetic worm segments. They can be rearranged on a PC case, refrigerator, or any other metal surface to create the illusion of a worm crawling through it.

I drew the original illustration on a tablet several years ago, before generative AI became widespread.

To turn it into a physical light-up piece, I used a sheet of PVC as the rigid backing and cut every window opening by hand. I placed warm-white LED strip behind the openings, connected everything to a single power cable, printed my illustration on synthetic canvas, and stretched the canvas over the PVC base.

The most difficult part was aligning the printed windows precisely with the hand-cut openings. I wanted the light to look as though it was coming from inside the building rather than being placed on top of the picture.

I wanted to make a pair of bowls shaped like broken shells. After 3D printing them, I spent about two days sanding, filling, priming, painting and applying a protective clear coat.

Most of the work happened after the printer had finished — getting rid of the layer lines and creating a smooth, ceramic-like surface took several rounds of sanding and refinishing.

I 3D printed these bowls and then spent about two days post-processing them.

The process included several rounds of sanding, filling imperfections, priming, painting and finally applying a protective clear coat. I wanted the finished surface to look more like a ceramic or manufactured object than a typical 3D print.

The post-processing took much longer than the printing itself, but I’m pretty happy with how smooth they turned out.

I wanted to make something more personal than a regular framed photo, so I printed her portrait on a PVC sheet and added her name as a handwritten-style LED neon sign.

I designed the lettering myself, laser-cut the clear acrylic backing, routed the wiring behind it, soldered the separate neon sections and mounted everything onto the portrait.

It was made as a one-off gift for my friend’s wife, and I’m really happy with how the soft pink glow works with the photo.

I designed the sign myself in CorelDRAW and cut the backing from 3 mm clear acrylic using a CNC laser cutter.

I routed the wiring along the back of the acrylic, leaving short wire ends at each section for soldering the LED neon. Then I cut the flexible neon into separate pieces and attached them to the acrylic with cyanoacrylate super glue.

Hiding the wiring and keeping all the letters aligned was probably the most time-consuming part, but I’m quite happy with the final result.

I wanted to turn the familiar look of panel apartment blocks into something functional, so I designed these two planters on my computer.

I created the drawings and had the walls and bases cut from PVC sheet by a local company. I then had the building façades UV-printed directly onto the panels and assembled everything myself using PVC adhesive — the same type commonly used for plastic window frames.

Each planter has a raised false bottom with an opening underneath, where a small saucer can be placed to collect excess water. This keeps the drainage hidden and makes the planters convenient to use indoors.

They aren’t exact replicas of particular buildings, but they were inspired by the panel-block architecture familiar to many parts of Eastern Europe.

Which one would you choose for your plant — the white building or the pink one?

I wanted to turn the familiar look of panel apartment blocks into something functional, so I designed these two planters on my computer.

I created the drawings and had the walls and bases cut from PVC sheet by a local company. I then had the building façades UV-printed directly onto the panels and assembled everything myself using PVC adhesive — the same type commonly used for plastic window frames.

Each planter has a raised false bottom with an opening underneath, where a small saucer can be placed to collect excess water. This keeps the drainage hidden and makes the planters convenient to use indoors.

They aren’t exact replicas of particular buildings, but they were inspired by the panel-block architecture familiar to many parts of Eastern Europe.

Which one would you choose for your plant — the white building or the pink one?