Drivers floor pan heat shield removal?
Has anyone removed the head shield that’s under the drivers floor pan?
I am doing some floor pan repairs and I need to access the bottom but it looks like a pain.
Any suggestions?
Has anyone removed the head shield that’s under the drivers floor pan?
I am doing some floor pan repairs and I need to access the bottom but it looks like a pain.
Any suggestions?
I’m doing a repair on a few small holes in my floor pan.
I am using Ospho to convert the rust first, repairing the holes and then painting.
I’m confused on what paint to use though.
My plan is to use rustoleum automotive self etching primer on the interior but after that I’m really confused.
What kind of paint would you recommend to top coat the self etching primer?
What paint would you recommend for the underside? I have seen some people use fluid film.
Thanks for your help!
I am brand new to jeeps so bear with me. My 2012 JKU doesn’t have a tow wiring harness.
I’ve seen some things online that make it seem like there’s a plug and play solution.
Would that work or is it normally hard wired into the brakes or something?
I recently bought a 2012 JKU that looked CLEAN on from the bottom….until I removed the carpet and found a rusted out floor pan.
Now, I understand the rust isn’t THAT bad but I’ve called around to a few shops and they want $500-1000 to do the repair on the passenger side alone.
I believe I could do the repair myself but I’m just too busy these days.
I know I could just fiberglass or bondo the holes and say that it’s a problem for someone else later down the road but that’s not really the way I am. I want it done the right way.
Here’s my question- would pretty much any jeep that isn’t really new probably have the same rust issues?
You can’t just rip the carpet up in a test drive to find out so I feel like maybe I’m better off spending the money and getting the repairs done because of the high probability of having the same issue on a different jeep.
What’s your thoughts?
Btw this jeep spent 2 years up north and the rest of its like was in Central Florida.
I need help deciding how to fix this rust spots.
I realize there’s a bit more rust removal that needs to happen to get down to bare metal in the circled areas but can I get away with fiberglass instead of welding?
I talked to a shop who said they would buy a whole new replacement pan and cut out the pieces they need and that the whole job is very expensive. Idk if that’s true or they just didn’t want to deal with it.
My biggest concern is any work that needs to be done from below. It seems like there’s a lot of things in the way near the trans tunnel.
Any help would be appreciated!
Back for another rust related question lol
After completely removing my carpet on my passenger side I found 2 or 3 small holes which leads me to a couple questions.
Since they are small holes, can I use something else to fill them without having to cut out and weld?
What’s the easiest way to remove the sound deadening epoxy looking stuff?
Thanks!
Hello!
I’m doing some floor pan rust repair in my JKU but it’s my first time and I’m a little unsure about the rust in the seam in the 2nd photo.
Would it be good enough to just wire wheel it until I can’t see any more rust and then por15 and paint over it? Or will the rust come back since there’s most likely rust between the floor pan and the seat support?
Thanks!
I assume that epoxy looking stuff isn’t stock right? I just bought this otherwise really nice and clean JK.
What would you do to fix this up? It’s not worth replacing the floor pan right?
Idk what happened but now there’s a gap where the soft top meets the door sill. Is there a way to realign it? This is a JKU.
I am brand new to Jeeps and I found out yesterday after a decent rain that when I open a door there’s a pretty steady stream of water that falls into the cabin.
I have a soft top by the way.
My question is two parts:
Is there anything to prevent this?
Do you have to worry about rust in the floor panels if there’s no fix and you have to live with it?
Thanks! I did try to search the topic but the answers were a little unclear.
I have the dreaded c2200 code along with the ABS, brake, and traction control light on the dash.
I don’t really care about ABS so I can live without it but I really want the lights gone.
Is there any way of getting them to turn off?
Thanks!
Looking for a rust free specimen! Auto or manual!
I’m looking at a 2004 wrangler x from trustworthy individual but the vin keeps coming back as invalid. I’ve never had this happen on any other car I’ve looked at. I’ve triple checked that it’s not a mistake.
The vin on the car matches, any idea the reason?
I’m very interested in the TJ as it’s basically 0 rust but I want to be safe.
My head says truck but my heart says TJ lol.
I don’t haul big items like boats, cars, or motorcycles. It’s mostly the odd furniture piece or home improvement materials.
The TJ alone isn’t big enough so I’d have to get a trailer. I’m thinking a 3x5 or 5x5 open trailer would be plenty.
Has anyone been in this place? Do you use your TJ with trailer to haul stuff?
Looking for a TJ with the 4.0. Is 6-7k a realistic budget to find a clean TJ? I’m based in Florida.
I have always wanted a 2 door, 5 speed, 4.0 wrangler and I think the time has finally come.
I have a few questions…
I know road noise is bad ( especially for the cloth tops ) but does anyone take longer trips in them? Like 2-3 hours?
Anything mechanically I should look out for? From my understanding the 4.0 is the best engine so that’s what I’m looking for.
Any other tips or things I should look out for?
Looking for one near Florida ideally but willing to travel.
I have a 2005 Toyota Matrix xr that the previous owner installed an amp and sub in.
I removed it earlier today because it was taking up too much space but now the car won’t start. The starter clicks once and that’s it.
Anyone have any ideas?
It’s a brand new battery and I’ve checked to make sure the terminals are secure.
Edit: solved! I had also replaced the positive terminal while removing the amp and sub and apparently the connection where the stud on the positive lead ( which has the starter main cable on top ) wasn’t tight enough. I had it tight before but I really cranked it down and now it runs great.
I just bought a super low mileage 2005 Matrix xr which came with a sub and amp. I removed them today in order to make more space but now the car won’t start.
I disconnected both terminals on the battery first and then removed the amp power cable from the positive terminal, fished out the power cable from the rest of the car and then disconnected it from the back of the aftermarket head unit.
I then reconnected the battery and everything works electrically but the car won’t turn over. It just makes one or two clicks from the starter and that’s it.
I’ve verified that the battery is snuggly reconnected so it’s not a matter of the battery being disconnected.
Any suggestions?