u/Cash2blockz

I’m confused as to why this area in Miami has two one way signs pointing straight ahead given that the street they’re pointing down is not even a one way street. However, it’s important to mention that the opposite direction (horizontal direction) at this intersection is a one way street, BUT those two one way signs that I circled in red are clearly not referring to that one way direction since they’re pointing straight ahead, not to the right where the one way travels

The first picture are the error codes that I have under the hard error menu, and the second picture is what my screen looks like when it goes completely black (the issue)

Ok so I’ve been having an ongoing issue in my 2019 civic sport sedan with the infotainment screen since some time in 2024. Basically, the infotainment screen goes completely black out of no where while I’m connected to Apple CarPlay in which it does this very frequently. When this happens, unplugging my phone from the usb cable (so ultimately disconnecting my phone from Apple CarPlay since my car has wired only CarPlay) doesn’t fix it, turning the car off and back on doesn’t fix it, unplugging the usb cable out from the usb port doesn’t fix it, but rather the only thing that fixes it and gets my screen back to normal is holding the power button to the infotainment system down, and then rebooting it. This black screen issue has been persistent ever since it started back in 2024 and sometimes it literally happens a few times a day, while other times it will happen just a few times a week. I’ve tried multiple factory resets, as well as unplugging the fuse that’s linked to the infotainment/audio system, and even tried using a wireless CarPlay adapter, and none of those things have done a damn thing in solving the issue. My infotainment screen going completely black while using CarPlay started before I even got a new phone (I have an iPhone 17 pro max right now, and I used to have an iPhone 14 Pro Max) so I know it’s not my phone causing this issue, and I’ve also switched between multiple different USB cables for using CarPlay and yet the issue still persists so I know it’s not the usb cable causing the issue either. Today I went into the self-diagnostic setting in the hidden menu and found all of these error codes under the “hard error” menu. I have an appointment with Honda on Thursday because they’re gonna run diagnostics on the car to see what the exact issue is and go from there, but i would like to have an idea as to maybe what they’ll find given the error codes under the hard error menu. FYI, all of the error codes all say 1102 (what’s shown in the first picture).

When turning at an intersection by the use of a yield lane, does anyone else stop and yield to coming traffic before proceeding through, rather than rolling through the yield lane down the acceleration lane and then getting over? I want to note real quick that i NEVER do this when merging onto a highway as obviously, you cannot slow down or stop when merging onto a highway. Excluding the highway though, i do this at intersections when a yield lane is used for a turn. The reason why i do this is because after years of driving, i’ve learned that the acceleration lanes that follow after a yield lane are often unpredictable; sometimes they’re extremely short and you only have a few seconds to safely get over, which is dangerous when you have a decent amount of oncoming traffic coming your way (an example of a short acceleration lane like this is in the picture that i included), whilst other yield lanes have an acceleration lane that just dumps you straight into the lane of oncoming traffic. Now, while you can come to a stop in the yield lane and look down it before doing anything else (to see if there’s a safe acceleration lane for you to use), sometimes your view of what the road looks like further down the yield lane is obstructed, so it’s hard to tell how far the acceleration extends out for sometimes. In that case, if I can’t see down the yield lane, I just stay put and yield to oncoming traffic and then proceed once clear. Anyone else do this? Again, I don’t do this on highways.

Ive had my car for 5 years now, and I used to go through automatic car washes (I don’t anymore thankfully) earlier on which left some nasty scratches above my windows which you can see there shown in the first picture. After that experience, I never used an automatic car wash again and began only washing my car at home. Anyways, those scratches above the windows have always bothered me and so I wanted to make them a little less noticeable. I went and bought a scratch removal kit (specifically the chemical guys insynchro scratch removal kit) that you just do by hand, as those things never fully get scratches out, but rather just make them a little less noticeable. Well, after washing and drying my car, I applied the compound all over to the scratched area and then did multiple sweeps with light pressure over it using the pad that came with the kit. To my surprise, upon cleaning/buffing the residue with a microfiber cloth after I was done, literally 95% of the scratches were completely gone. I first figured that maybe it was just one of those products that temporarily “hides” scratches by filling them in, and so to test that, I washed the area of my car there to see if that was the case, but nope. The scratches were still completely gone. I then went and sealed the entire area with spray wax and since then, the scratches have never returned. How was it possible that this hand removal scratch kit ended up actually getting out those ugly scratches that were from previous car wash use? You’d think only a DA polisher could get those things out

I got these 10th gen type r/touring model style headlights for my civic sport sedan back in March 2024 from VLAND.com and I have had them on the car ever since then. They’re amazing headlights, although, throughout this whole time of having them on my car, I’ve noticed that for one, whenever I turn the car on, it takes about 10 seconds for the daytime running lights to actually turn on, rather than them turning on/lighting up immediately upon turning the car on, and I’ve also noticed that the automatic high beam setting in my car no longer works. In other words, when I switch the headlights to the auto high beam setting, only the low beams work while the high beams never turn on even when there’s absolutely nothing in my cars way that would cause them to not turn on (since when using the auto high beams setting, the high beams will automatically turn off if a car is approaching or you’re approaching an intersection, but, when nothing is in the way, they will turn on automatically). I’m not sure as to why the auto high beam setting doesn’t work with these aftermarket headlights, given that the high beams themselves turn on and off just fine when I use them manually, and the low beams work fine too. The installation for these headlights is just plug and play and I had my dad install them for me so I’m not sure if he did something wrong to cause the delay in the DRL’s turning on, as well as to cause the auto high beam setting to not work. Although my dad installed these headlights for me, I know that the plugs are simple as there’s one plug for the daytime running light, one for the low beams, one for the turn signal, and one for the high beams. Besides the high beams not ever activating when the auto high beam setting is on, and the DRL’s taking roughly 10 seconds to turn on upon turning the car on, everything else with these headlights works great. Still though, does anyone know if the two issues that I mentioned are a result of just the aftermarket headlights themselves, or if it’s a result of poor installation

Anytime I’m in the right lane on the highway and am driving next to a merge lane, I get super nervous. For reference, I’m the blue line and the red line represents the traffic that’s going to be merging (what scares me). Anyways, the reason I get nervous in these situations is because I have a fear that someone in the merge lane is gonna fail to check their mirrors and then is just gonna shoot over into my lane and then hit me. I’ve seen this happen before (people failing to yield when merging). I get so nervous to a point where I have to very slightly brake when I’m driving next to a merge lane, all simply because of this fear of a collision due to someone giving zero attention to safely merging. Now while yes, I could just get over into the lane to left of me ahead of time, it’s hard to do so when I’m driving on the highway during a time when there’s heavy traffic since in that situation, it can be hard to change lanes safely in enough time before coming up to the merge lane (from the time that you spot that there’s a merge lane up ahead, to the time that you’re finally able to get over into the lane next to you during a time of heavy traffic, you’re already driving next to the merge lane by that point). With that being said, how can I get over this fear?

When making a left turn into somewhere, and the yellow lines have a little space in between them (like shown in the photos), what is the correct way to turn: A, or B?

At an intersection with a dual right turn (like shown in the picture), does a single green right arrow (with the main traffic light being red) apply to only the inner right turn lane, or does it apply to both the inner right turn lane, and the outer right turn lane? In other words, does the outer right turn lane have a red light, whilst the inner turn lane has the right of way to make a right turn, or do both of them have the right of way to make a right turn given this green arrow?

I want to get this stuff to use for cleaning my gloss black rims, but my rims are ceramic coated and i wanna make sure that this stuff won’t ruin the coating before I go ahead and buy it

I got these rims not too long ago for my car. I paid an additional $200 for them to be ceramic coated before being shipped to me. Just want to make sure I didn’t get ripped off

Every time I drive on this road right here next to raising canes, there is at least one or two cars parked alongside the side walk (right there where I circled) with their flashers on. It’s extremely annoying because it creates a large traffic jam right there at that light since everyone from the right lane is trying to get over into the left lane at the last minute due to the cars that are parked alongside raising canes being in the way and taking up the whole lane. There are multiple signs that quite literally say no parking is allowed right there. It doesn’t matter if ur door dash and are gonna be quick, go park in an actual parking spot and walk over to canes…

I recently began hearing a popping noise coming from the passenger side door frame anytime that the bass would play in the song that I was listening to and it got quite annoying. Well, I finally figured out that it’s the black speaker cage (idk what to call it so I’m just gonna call it a speaker cage) to the one passenger side speaker located near the window there. The cage on it is clearly loose or something given that whenever I lightly press on it, it clicks almost like a button in which you can hear for yourself in the video. I decided to see if the drivers side speaker cage would do the same thing when pushed on, and it doesn’t. It’s completely stiff and tight like it should be. Anyone know how I can fix this?

Also no, it’s not that little red accent that I have put around the speaker causing this noise as it does not make any sort of clicking sound or indicate any looseness whatsoever when I push on it. It’s the actual cage to the speaker that’s loose

Yo I kid you not every single time that I come to sprouts and am exiting the parking lot, someone always fails to obey that stop sign right there (where I have the red arrow pointing) and just drives through it without even stopping. I don’t think I’ve ever once seen someone actually come to a stop there which is concerning given that the stop sign is clear as day RIGHT THERE