Just wanted to confirm. I have a 2016 mbp on Ventura. If I want to use OCLP to go to Sequoia, I can still do an upgrade install (not clean) for Sequoia and keep my bootcamp partition functional as well, correct?
Long read, but please read to end.
So as often happens with older woled panels, my 5 year old Sony A90J master series oled has started to developed blobs of dead pixels around the edges. Luckily, I have an allstate protection plan for this TV that guarantees a replacement TV of "comparable performance/features," if my TV develops irreparable defects.
Squaretrade's entire business model for this coverage is to offer up people who bought this warranty significantly worse televisions than their current television as a way to save squaretrade money on claims. I've gone through this before, and usually they will eventually offer you so many garbage low level TVs that you can ask that they just refund you the cost of the tv under warranty. This will often happen when they won't offer an equal replacement. They will just give you a full refund for the amount you paid for your TV and you can go buy a new one with that cash.
This has been no problem in the past: squaretrade offers shit TVs; I provide actual data that the models offered are not comparable, and then they eventually honor the refund since they don't' want to actually pay for a comparable model.
But it looks like something has changed and they're no longer even trying to honor the terms of their policies.
For my defective A90J, they're offering me either a Bravia 8 OLED or an LGC6. The Bravia 8 is over 2 years old, and the C6, while very capable, is the midrange of LG's line. The LG also uses WebOS, a significantly different operating system that I despise. I have argued back and forth with them that the only true comparable replacement currently available (that would have the same 9-level master series performance and operating system) is the Bravia 8 MK II.
But of course, squaretrade is refusing to agree to the Bravia 8 MK II model because it costs more than they're willing to pay. The irony of this is the A95L would really be the right replacement, but they're discontinued in the size I'm looking for.
So my question is how would you proceed? I'm going to be escalating this to a manager and then reporting them to the BBB for not honoring the terms of the contract.
Every time I provide them real hard evidence that my Master Series Sony OLED should be replaced with the 8 II (current master series equivalent), they come back with shitty TV offers and no justification for those lower quality offers.
Quick but very specific question: since I can't view these sets side by side. One very minor change for Sony oleds going to qdoled on the a95l in 2024 is that when the set is off and in a room with any ambient light, I believe the screen looks a bit purple rather than pure black. This has to do with how the screen is designed.
For anyone that has had both the A95L and new 8 mk 2, does the 8 mk 2 look less purple when off? I remember reading they changed/upgraded the filter or something for this model.
Not an issue really, just curious since I like how the older woleds look when they are in a room and are completely black (like a void 😆) when off.
I've been trying to troubleshoot what I think is either an installer error or pressure issue. I recently acquired this outdoor drip system for a garden, and one side of the system has a 1" vinyl tube with various 1/4" tubes feeding bubblers along the line.
All the lines have good pressure except for some reason two bubblers that are attached towards the very end of the line. No matter how high a flow filter I put on these two lines (circled in red), the bubblers just barely emit any water (though the 2gph red ones emit more than the blue 1gph ones). The bubbler with the flower icon pictured in between the two problematic bubblers works just fine, and the pressure is still quite high at the end of the line where the line is capped off when I test it.
I'm thinking that these bubblers are just placed too close together and need to be moved further up the line.
Since increasing the gph isn't helping much, should I just plug the existing holes with a good patch and move them further up the line and less close together on the line?
I've had this 800 for about 2 years now, and it's run perfectly fine without any issues. It's one of those annoying smart connected ones, but I haven't run into any problems with the app or setting it.
Every couple days I run the dishwasher on auto mode with crystal dry enabled. When the cycle is done, I get an alert on my phone that it's completed.
For some reason a couple weeks ago, maybe after the dishwasher got a software update (?), every time the cycle finishes now I also get a notice that the dishes were sanitized.
I made sure not to have the sanitize option selected when I'm running the cycle, but no matter what I select, the dishwasher always runs "sanitize" at the end of the cycle.
I've tried completely resetting the dishwasher and triple checking that sanitize is not selected in the app or the control panel every time.
Anyone else run into this problem and know how to fix it?
The only thing I can think of is that turning on crystal dry always run sanitize no matter what, but the app didn't used to notify me of that.
I've had this 800 for about 2 years now, and it's run perfectly fine without any issues. It's one of those annoying smart connected ones, but I haven't run into any problems with the app or setting it.
Every couple days I run the dishwasher on auto mode with crystal dry enabled. When the cycle is done, I get an alert on my phone that it's completed.
For some reason a couple weeks ago, maybe after the dishwasher got a software update (?), every time the cycle finishes now I also get a notice that the dishes were sanitized.
I made sure not to have the sanitize option selected when I'm running the cycle, but no matter what I select, the dishwasher always runs "sanitize" at the end of the cycle.
I've tried completely resetting the dishwasher and triple checking that sanitize is not selected in the app or the control panel every time.
Anyone else run into this problem and know how to fix it?
The only thing I can think of is that turning on crystal dry always run sanitize no matter what, but the app didn't used to notify me of that.
My plan pricing jumped up quite a bit this month. Can a community specialist please help me find a way to reduce my bill and select an internet plan that works best for my needs?
This is in regards to the purple boxes only (not green). I've purchased mostly Platinum, which seems to smell a bit more strongly scented than regular, but I'm not sure it's worth the price premium over regular. I can grab a 38lb box of slide regular for $27 vs a 27lb box of platinum for $34.
Has anyone actually compared the two to see if platinum is worth it? I just have one box that I scoop twice a day. No point in paying more for no good reason.
I'm also very leary of these boxes as I've also noted that the actual litter (and perhaps performance) varies from box to box as described [here](https://www.reddit.com/r/CatAdvice/comments/1kh209h/arm\_and\_hammer\_clump\_and\_seal\_unscented\_rant/).
This is in regards to the purple boxes only (not green). I've purchased mostly Platinum, which seems to smell a bit more strongly scented than regular, but I'm not sure it's worth the price premium over regular. I can grab a 38lb box of slide regular for $27 vs a 27lb box of platinum for $34.
Has anyone actually compared the two to see if platinum is worth it? I just have one box that I scoop twice a day. No point in paying more for no good reason.
I'm also very leary of these boxes as I've also noted that the actual litter (and perhaps performance) varies from box to box as described here.
I have a FLF that has been happily growing in its pot for almost a decade. A couple months ago new growth stopped, and the existing leaves started to show yellowing and brown/dead spots on the lower leaves (and what looked like drying out very tiny brown spots on the upper leaves). It's almost as if all the leaves are more dry/brittle, but the leaves are still green and full for the most part.
I though I might be underwatering, but after I noticed that water went straight through the soil to the drip pan, I pulled the rootball up and found the plant to be extremely root bound (no shockers there). The roots were coming through everywhere out of the drip holes at the bottom of the pot.
So I took the advice I found on here and repotted with fresh soil in a pot that is only slightly larger 1-2'' in all dimensions. I also didn't disturb the root ball much at all (per the advice I've seen on here). I barely pulled down a bit of the bottom of the root ball when repotting.
It's safely in its new pot as of a month ago, and besides holding water in the soil much better, it didn't really respond at all to the repot, as far as I can tell. The slow yellowing/die off seems to be continuing without any changes.
Any suggestions of what else I might try? It doesn't look "unhealthy," but it's definitely not thriving. I'm concerned I'm missing something, but I don't know what. I haven't made any changes to light/watering/etc., and it was thriving for many years that way.
EDIT: For anyone else who read the T&C's and though "Oh! they specifically said cargo vans are COVERED, so surely a cargo van from a moving company would count, no?" NOPE. As I had suspected, they won't cover a cargo van rented to carry actual cargo.
No cargo vans (without seats), even though "cargo vans" are specified as "covered" in the T&Cs. What nonsense. In what world is "cargo van" interpreted as "not for using for transporting cargo" and only for passengers?
The Amex agent specified that the cargo van must have seats inside of it (in addition to driver/passenger) to be covered. I guess that would make it a "passenger van," but whatever. None of those specifics are listed in the T&Cs.
I get this coverage is intended for passenger vehicle rentals, but I'm not sure why they have language saying cargo vans are covered but then say that a van you use to carry cargo is not covered. They should really update this langue.
I'm looking over the exclusions for this benefit, and it does say "cube van," which isn't the same thing as a cargo van.
And reading the t&cs, it says "Covered vehicles include four-wheeled, two-axle passenger motor vehicles, designed for and sold to accommodate private passenger transport on public roads, including a pick-up truck, cargo or passenger van and sport utility vehicle (SUV)"
So this reads to me that hourly cargo van rentals would be covered under this benefit.
Does anyone have better information about whether a U-Haul cargo van would be included under this protection category? And do they exclude any hourly rental vehicles?
Having trouble finding that language, so I'm assuming those are included.
Replacing some absolutely garbage Orbit 3/4'' and 1'' anti-siphon valves, and have narrowed it down to the Irritrol 2700 series and Hunter. Rainbrid is out since I've heard that their solenoids click kind of loud and are slightly louder in operation
So comparing the Irritrol and Hunter valves, in your experience, which is the quietest in operation both when activating and while running?
I signed up last month and was told by DTV sales that I won't be getting Hulu/Disney for free without a Gemini air device lease.
Called CS and they specifically noted that they had a script on their computers to read to customers that explicitly says if you add ANY Gemini device, including a used secondhand osprey or air purchase, not just leased or purchased through DTV, and logged into it through your account, you would then be automatically eligible for the free hulu/Disney bundle.
But reading on this sub, it sounds like that's false, and that the Gemini device needs to be "provisioned" to your account, which can only happen if you buy or lease it directly from DTV.
Complicating this further, some people on this sub who buy a refurb or used Gemini box are reporting that they ARE getting the free hulu/Disney bundle as soon as they login to their new (to them) gemini. Others claim that's impossible.
So what's the consensus these days? Is DTV customer service just wrong?
Any info on what the new x1 lidar model will be priced at in the US when it releases next month?
I'm having a hard time understanding the differences between the luba mini 2 and the 3. The 3 is on sale right now in the U.S.
I have a very small, maybe 700-1000 sq ft lawn (less than .1 acre I think) that's completely level.
Any reason to get the 2 mini over the 3? Or should I just consider a yuka mini 2 even though it's completely sold out.
It seems like the yuka would be a better fit for a very small yard, but I also want the most reliable mower with the best intelligence.
Planning on grabbing a pair of prescription lens inserts for my headset, but they're asking for an "optional" IPD value, which I haven't measured. I'm pretty sure I can actually just ignore this since the PSVR2 allows you to move the lenses, but wanted to check here with others regarding whether IPD value is necessary for prescription lens inserts?
Previous owners put dtv satellite on my roof, but have never activated dtv service. I need to get dtv to one TV in the living room (that also has a coax cable), and two other TVs in two different rooms (that have no coax or ethernet cable).
I have strong 1gig wifi throughout the entire house with no datacap. So I know I can easily go the stream route with gemini devices or the traditional satellite route with a gemini air for the other TVs that have no coax cable available.
Since pricing is close (about $10/month difference in streaming's favor, not counting first month $10/off promo plus additional $50-$60 activation fee for satellite), I'm trying to find the few material differences between stream and satellite. As best as I can tell based on the comparison pages on dtv's webiste and my own research here on reddit, these are the small pros/cons/differences. Please let me know what you think I've missed or gotten wrong:
I'd like to get Directv service, but I'm not sure if what I'm trying to do is possible. I have a house where the previous owners installed a directv dish (and the associated support hardware) on the roof of the house. There's only one room (the living room) that has a coax run into it, along with ethernet. I have two other rooms that I'd like to have DirectTV in for each set and allow for watching different channels/recordings at the same time.
My concern is I want to have DVR recording and the ability to fast forward commercials/ I understand that coax is needed for dish-based directv, but what are my options in this mixed coax/no-coax environment?
If I go the directv streaming route, can I get dvr recording that also allows me to fast forward through commercials?
Double checking. The nest compatibility checker says I'm ok. Rh and Rc are wired together with a jumper for some reason. No heat pump, but I didn't think you can have two wires going into the same plug, such as Rc in this case.
There was a thread about this years ago with few answers. I'm on my second headset, and I've been using full white and full black scenes in some games to check for stuck or dead pixels. This helps identify the most annoying (stuck pixels) and dead ones, but you can't really see dead rgb subpixels this way.
On phones and computers, there are plenty of dead pixel checkers, but no such luck for gaming headsets.
Is there an easier way to get full screen single color slides on the psvr? Maybe pull up a website somehow?