u/BosqueBuddhist

Sitting here eagerly waiting on new news of this.
The photos that are coming out are wild. Wonder what the guys are getting paid to shore this thing up 😂

Genuine wondering what is the next steps when something happens like this.

Is this something that is going to need to be a complete tear down or do they really think they can stop this from what seems like an inevitable collapse.

I installed the Mangoal F150 4k front and 1080p rear Model A dashcam in my Ford Lightning the other day, using all three different power options, and I would like to share my experience wall of text about doing it.

TL;DR - It works great, generates high quality recordings, and it was a simple installation out of the box, no additional tools required. Any problems I had were more related to iOS and my own clumsy thumbs than the camera or wiring kits. The OBD power option (picture 2) simplifies everything and provides a valuable benefit, although it may be hard to justify its additional $40 cost for what it actually is. The fuse box power option (picture 3) was a bit more complicated and time consuming (and also $40) but wouldn’t be needed or recommended for the vast majority of people.

*(*Full disclosure: while I paid full retail for the camera ($250), it was missing the GPS module, which Mangoal quickly sent within a few days after contacting them via Amazon. As way of apology and in exchange for my honest review of their product, I was also provided with both the OBD and fuse box power connection kits. Nobody earns affiliate money for this Amazon link: Mangoal Front 4K Rear 1080P Dash Cam for F150 2018-2026 F250-F450 2020-2026 | F250 F350 F450 Super Duty 2020-2026, OEM Style, XLT Lariat King Ranch Raptor, UHD 2160P Video, WiFi & App, GPS, 128GB Card(A) https://a.co/d/0bL03moU)

I chose this model (despite the helpful recommendations I received on Reddit for other products) based upon a few things. First, the price was very competitive for the features it has. It is 4k front and 1080p rear, uses a STARVIS IMX335 image sensor, it looks completely OEM, is non-intrusive, it also included GPS and a 128gb memory card (although I invested in a max endurance card based upon valid concerns about how long a cheaper card would last with repeated rewrites and high heat). One of the biggest selling points to me was that it looks built-in, not just some black box stuck on the windshield with dangling wires.

I installed it in my 2023 Ford F150 Lightning XLT, with ER battery and 312a option package.
The installation should not be too much different for other trims or ICE models, although be sure that you select the correct camera model, A, B, or C, for your vehicle.

I initially installed the dashcam using the default rear view mirror power connection and I also added the GPS module at this time. The second test was using the OBD port power option, and then I tested the fuse box installation (where it remains connected in my vehicle). Either one of these $40 power options is required for parked monitoring when the vehicle is not powered on. I installed each power method to see how easy it was for every configuration Mangoal offers.

The default power option, plugged into the rearview mirror, is simple and easy if you don’t need to monitor the vehicle while it’s powered off. Otherwise, the OBD option would be the easiest full-time power option to install, while the fuse box option requires a bit more work to identify appropriate fuse locations and install. I opted to keep the fuse box option installed because I always use an OBDLink MX+ device and didn’t want to use an OBD splitter to accommodate both ODB devices. I think for most people, however, the far easier method of an OBD adapter is just fine and really isn’t visible unless you look for it. In fact, it effectively hides the OBD port because it functions as a black cap over an otherwise white connector and doesn’t extend beyond the port more than a few millimeters. The OBD option actually simplifies the entire install, since you don’t even need to use the bulky mirror power splitter that must otherwise be tucked away into the ceiling liner.

Camera/GPS Installation (default power)
For all installations, you simply remove the mirror mounting screw, slip on a mounting plate, and re-attach both with a longer screw they provide. In this case, I used the shorter of the two screws they provided, and installed it with the included torx tool. Care must be taken because the mirror threads are aluminum and you don’t want to cross-thread them. The new screws fit without resistance, so don’t force them. Be sure the screw’s angle is correct and it will go right in. For default power to the camera, I unplugged the mirror power connector and plugged that into the new harness which then plugged back into the mirror. The smaller camera power wire then plugs into this harness as well. Ideally, the factory collar that holds the mirror cable to the mirror stem would be removed for the cleanest routing installation, but because this wasn’t going to be my permanent method, I left it intact. I next snapped the camera onto the mounting plate behind the mirror. I popped off the sensor cover with the included trim tool, which was a bit scary, but the clips are solid and don’t look like they would too easily break. I then attached the GPS and the rear camera cables to the camera (they are keyed, so make sure to line them up properly).

The instructions state to route the GPS to the dashboard, but I didn’t want to have that little block out in the open. Instead, I used the adhesive pad to mount the unit immediately to the right of the sensor cover, stuck onto the windshield itself. Because there wasn’t any metal or electronics between it and the sky, I saw no reason it shouldn’t work, even inverted. I left the cable bundled as-is, and tucked it all easily past the sensors and into the space between the roof and the cab liner, being sure to route it around the clip holes and electronics in the sensor cluster. The GPS is thus nearly invisible behind the black-dotted frit. So far it works for me, but as this is a non-standard location, your results may vary. You may wish to try it there first prior to permanently attaching it.

Most of the rather bulky power harness also tucked into the liner space behind the sensors, although again I needed to be careful how I routed it and was worried about the space being too tight, but it worked out by paying attention to where things needed to be. For the OBD or fuse box power, the harness is not used at all and you would simply leave the mirror plugged in as it came from the factory. The power cord from the camera therefore wouldn’t need to go under the sensor cover at all and can be sent along the windshield to the left or right as needed. Snap the sensor cover back on, being careful to route the cables through the gap so it sits flush without pinching.

Rear Camera
Before routing the rear camera cable to the back, I powered the truck on to test both cameras and to ensure I knew which way was up on the rear camera. There was an arrow sticker on the rear camera mount, but I didn’t trust it without prior confirmation. After loading the software (drama described later), confirming orientation and powering off, I unplugged the rear camera from the very long cable and mounted it on the rear window, behind the driver side. I ensured that any defogging wires weren’t going to be in the direct center of the lens and attached it with the adhesive pad. The camera can be rotated up and down within its housing. The view is wide enough the record both the bed contents and the road behind. The camera view appears very similar to that of the truck’s own rearview camera. Being only 1080p resolution was, as far as I could tell, the only difference between $250 and $400 for the 2k rear, dual STARVIS system. I couldn’t justify the cost of higher resolution, given that many states (including NM) don’t use front license plates, legibility of which being the primary reason given for 2k or 4k cameras.

Wire Routing
Routing the camera cable was easier than I expected. In this truck, there is a decently loose (almost too loose) gap between the roof liner and the windshield. The included trim tool assisted with poking the wire or pulling away the liner as required. I routed it through the seam on the passenger side A column and then simply inserted it under the inside lip of the upper door seals all the way back, going around and into the seam of the B column. All the excess wire (3 feet!?) then had to be tucked under the liner at the rear window, but there is plenty of room for it, after running it back and forth a couple of times. I finally connected the end to the camera and tucked the connectors out of the way. Not a single inch of wire is visible at all the entire length of the truck, other than a couple inches at the rear camera end. Even that could have been minimized, if I had mounted the camera at the top of the glass.

Routing the power cables for the OBD/fuse box options was just as straightforward, going down the left side door seal for OBD or the right side for the fuse box. One of the included cable ties might be useful to keep the OBD plug from dangling away when it’s unplugged, but it’s not otherwise necessary as the plug is very near the trim seam where the cable comes out.

There is some concern in videos that I watched about the camera wire potentially interfering with the curtain side air bags, but I don’t think this should really be an issue, considering the intense bag force against what is essentially a very loosely-placed wire route. If that is still a concern of yours, I’ve seen where some people will route it to the outside of the bags by removing the rubber seal first. It doesn’t look like too much more work, but I didn’t do it that way myself, being too afraid to completely pull away the rubber seal from the truck.

Fuse Box Power Option Wiring
The fuse box panel in the passenger footwell is easy to remove, but the fuse box itself requires some agility to access. I took a picture with my camera so I could refer to that instead of squinting so much with my head deep in the footwell. The instructions also included a QC code to a great YouTube video for installing this power option, which you really should watch first, even though it was for a different fuse box location. The wiring is the same as shown in the video. Using a simple $10 voltage probe with a very thin point (which they could have included with the wiring kit, given the price) and the diagram in the truck’s user manual, I easily identified unused spare fuse locations and identified an always-hot battery location and a switched accessory location, as well as their power orientation. This truck is nice because there were plenty of live fuse locations to use without having to share a socket with another assigned fuse and potentially impact an unrelated truck function. In my particular truck with its trim and dealer options, I was able to easily use #4 and #37 locations for Batt/yellow and Acc/red respectively. I placed the original 20A fuses from those spots in the open section of the matching fuse taps and inserted each tap with the end furthest away from the wire lead on the hot side (towards the truck’s rear). The kit included instructions for which color wire (red or yellow) was for which power. It’s usually standard (red=acc, yellow=batt), but this was nice to see included. The only other connection is a simple ground wire to attach to the nearest grounded bolt. Unfortunately, the only easily accessible grounding bolt is an exposed one located high on the floor outside of the fuse panel. While it was easy to access, by being exposed, it could conceivably be disconnected by the toes of an adventurous right foot. I’m sure with some body contortions, I could have located another ground point inside the fuse area (or perhaps with an extension, behind the glove box), but my body isn’t as limber as it used to be, so I’ll take my chances. If the camera suddenly loses power, however, that’ll be the first place I’ll check.

I consider this a permanent (but removable) connection because even if you were to change cameras or brands in the future, this connection is a pretty universal solution. As with the OBD and rear camera wire, there was ample length available to reach the fuse box and plenty of room in that space to tuck the excess length out of the way. In both cases, I tested the camera’s functionality while the truck was off by pressing the still capture button on the bottom of the camera, which is located next to the power button. I was also able to power the camera on and off with the manual power button successfully.

Software
The software app itself is easy to use and understand. You are able to view a live feed of either camera, although not both at once. Installing the GPS allows videos to be time/date stamped. The videos with or without sound (volume adjustable) that are generated are stored in two different folders, one for front and one for rear cameras. Screenshots and crash-triggered videos (parked and locked) are each stored in their own folders. They are stored as mpeg-2 files and can be viewed within the app. Off-camera, I loaded the card into a USB reader (which Mangoal could also have included for next to nothing) and plugged it into my iPad, using the excellent and free VLC app to view and save.

The biggest problem I encountered was how to keep CarPlay from continuously connecting and booting my camera off wi-fi. This is an issue because CarPlay first connects via Bluetooth, then switches to WiFi. Because CarPlay and the camera are both WiFi “networks” that the phone is using, only one can be used at a time and CarPlay will bully anything else out of the way. This is not a limitation of the camera or app. It’s the inherent to WiFi and the way Apple wrote it into CarPlay. The easiest way I found to toggle between camera app connectivity and CarPlay, at least on the 12” Infotainment screen, is to go to Settings>Phone List> and then toggle the CarPlay on/off button for the phone. This keeps CarPlay from interfering while you connect the app to the camera and use it. When done with the app, you can simply toggle CarPlay back on and everything will be back as before. It took me as long to figure all this out as it did to install the hardware itself. Again, it’s not the fault of Mangoal or the app.

Conclusion
Honestly, I was a little afraid to tackle this because I was afraid the cable routing was going to be a nightmare. That turned out to be completely unfounded. Realistically, the most difficult tasks were simply getting the mirror screw to line up with my clumsy fingers and my debugging CarPlay, neither of which is the fault of this device or its app. How well this system and memory card hold up the the New Mexico sun and heat remains to be seen (the card gets searingly hot!) but otherwise this affordable and attractive dash cam and the OBD option is all thumbs up from me!

Very resourceful.

Wife and I were driving home today and saw this vehicle, we assume it is some kind of RV. Would really appreciate it if someone could identify the make and model.

So I made a little modification. Zip tied a ~20lb brick to the front and it works like a charm. Bonus points that it collects better while I’m bagging.

We are looking to buy a house, and we came across this. I am in horticulture by trade, so building isn't my thing, but there is no way this is sturdy and safe, right? No way this will hold a hot tub.