u/MrShnatter

I'm a noob with Cap 1 shopping. I've had the extension on my PC for a while now but opted for Rakuten when I see them pop up.

I must have done something recently because I am now getting loads of emails about Cap1Shopping offers. 1 was for lowes - spend $200, get $100. I did that one.

There was also one for ebay - spend $100 / get $50 that I got more than a couple days ago, but likely less than a week ago. When I finally went to get something on ebay, clicking on the link in the email I got the message that the offer expired.

1. Any idea if I will get that again? And once you use one of those promos at a company (like Lowes), I can't use another, right? I saw the small print about 1 offer per account.

those and other emails about a few percentage point promos... those won't get me to impulse buy. But the ones where I'll get $25++ back might.

2. Is there a way to tell it to send me only big deals?

3. Are those rare?

4. Do you keep getting them after the initial rush?

5. any other tips on how to get the most from them? I do have / love a capital one Spark card that we've used for years - 2% back on everything. Simple and best overall reward (also have a Citi costco for travel, restaurants and gas for those categories). But the cap1shopping seems less legit.

6. I;m thinking there's no way to actually talk / chat with someone at Cap1Shopping, right?

THANKS!

I’ve started back into selling puts.

At the end of each week, how do you know if you’ve made or lost money?

Sure if you sold put on Monday and cover or it expires on Friday, it’s easy to figure.

But what about you Soled? They put on Monday that expires in a few weeks? On some thinner, treated options or overnight. The spread is pretty large. Just take the midpoint is the current value.? and then too, that’s not a real gain or loss.

You figure you realized gain/ loss? And separately, your unrealized gain loss.

I knew about cap1shopping for a while now. I have the chrome add in on my PC, but also have rakuten and choose that most all times. I get a small check in the mail every couple months.

Not sure what happened, but seeing loads of deals from Cap1Shopping in the last few days.

On the ebay website and in email - spend $50 / get $50. Lowes - spend $200 get $100.

Etc.

Are these legit? Do I get cash that I have to use on their (cap1Shopping) website for overpriced items?

Looking in the chrome extension, it says I have about $35 available in shopping rewards. That's what I got back from transactions? Now what? I don't see a 'mail me a check' or similar way to move it somewhere. Oh, store gift cards? Only? Only in dollar amounts? No $35.44 gift card?

Are they always dollar for dollar? Except for the couple big ones at the top? Academy - you get cap1 shopping money from buying that with Cap1shopping money? but only for > $1K

And there's all these terms and conditions. Paranoid that I'll get something from Lowes and from ebay over the numbers they say I have to spend... and then get tripped up with the small print? Didn't click on a link the right way / didn't do something that they say 'sorry, you don't get the money'.

Like mail in rebates back in the day.... not worth the trouble to find out they didn't get it in time, I didn't dot an i or cross a T, etc.

Any thoughts?

Hi!

I saw a post in r/askNYC from 11 years ago about what defined a ‘Broadway theater’.

https://www.reddit.com/r/AskNYC/s/J2C1LpZsRC

Besides people chiming in on the criteria, someone in there posted that in general, musicals are more profitable than plays?

I was a bit surprised initially when reading that -
I would think the costs of union musicians, and I think a typically larger cast at union rates would make each performance more expensive.

But then I guess it’s because musicals run longer than plays so they have more time to recoup startup costs?

I'm retired and turning 65 in September.

My wife's 61 and still works. She gets health insurance (with a prescription plan) through work for the 2 of us (Horizon BC/BS in NJ). They have 20 employees and so the broker confirmed it is a qualified plan.

I thought I am good to not need to do anything now related to medicare. Because I am covered by a qualified plan, I can sign up with medicare / supplemental coverage when / if my wife's plan is not qualified (less than 20 people) or when she retires / doesn't get health insurance.

But my wife's hearing I DO need to sign up for medicare hospitalization (that's 'free'??) and (maybe) prescription?!

Neither of us get any kind of social security. We will get hit because of IRMAA. I don;t want to pay penalties because I didn't do things right : )

And I am dead set against Medicare Advantage if that matters.

Anyone know for sure?

A bunch of years ago etrade had a promotion (I guess to spur volume?) that waived commission for closing short option positions at 5c or less.

I found this from google: under their "Nickel Buyback" program, you can close out single-leg short option positions trading at a nickel ($0.05) or less with $0 commission and $0 contract fees

But I can't find anything about that now on the etrade website.

Anyone knew about that program? And did it go away?

Wife and I won tix thru the lottery this past weekend. We’re around 60.

Partly because of my not so great hearing but mostly I think we are way out of touch with loads of the names they dropped, etc. that we didn’t get most of the jokes - didn’t hear what they were saying or if we did, didn’t get the reference.

I liked Jim Parsons’s grabbing the sheet music saying ‘memorize it! I had to!

I didn’t recognize the phone sound till they said grinder, then I got the joke.

But overall, we didn’t laugh much, in contrast to most of the audience.

Is there a cheat sheet / something to help explain at least some of the many jokes?

My wife heard that the woman in the front was told to say Hannah?

And the ‘I’m 1 parasite away from my goal weight’ line - anyone know what it was before the recent outbreak?

Side note - I love a good laugh! That said, Near the start of the show, I was a little put off by the idea of making a parody / joke show about titanic. People died. But then remembered - we love the producers (making light of hitler) and history of the world part 1 - (making light of the inquisition and so much more).

Thanks!

I posted last week? about how a user previously had 5TB on onedrive with the licenses business basic and ODFB plan 2. Till last week when onedrive said 1TB was the limit.

After troubleshooting here, it turns out (based on Copilot chat) that there's a 5 user minimum to get the 5TB and MS hadn't been enforcing that till now.

Even after moving loads of files out of onedrive, the account was still over 1TB. Turns out there was a 3 year old restored snapshot in a subsite taking up 1.8TB,

Using copilot, I spent 2 hours unsuccessfully to delete that subsite. Interesting using the gui and powershell. and frustrating that copilot got loads of instructions in the gui wrong.

It gave up saying to submit a ticket to MS.

I gave chat GPT a try. That helped me delete the subsite in 1/2 hour.

TL/DR: Copilot failed a MS 365 task that chartgpt got done!

But now... there's files in onedrive. And in another folder that isn;t synced. AND the onedrive folder (called docs) has a docs folder under that (by default, right?).

For small businesses that want to use onedrive or even sharepoint and need more space than the 1 TB / user and 1TB / tenant in sharepoint.... what would you recommend when they have more than 2 TB of data? Either for 1 user to access across several PCs, or a couple users needing to get to the same files. AND for being able to call up a spreadsheet or picture on their phone. ie - not all that complex needs.

More and more, it seems MS poops on small businesses. They get all their money from enterprises.

I have a 2013 Honda Civic with 185K miles. A little dinged up but keeps going. I am no fan of new cars because of all the bells / whistles - on my wife's 2020 Subaru, I can barely change the radio station. And all those electronic panels / systems are that many more things that could fail, meaning $$$.

So I'd like to keep the civic. I think this is the most miles I've had on a car! And kinda would like to see how far I could go with it.

That said, when you bring it to a local shop for oil change / maintenance, at this age, do you just expect each visit to cost $______ ? Between all the different things at that age that need to be dealt with? Between brakes, spark plugs, timing belt / chain?, fluids, etc., there's no loan / lease costs, but you are paying maintenance costs? Which is reasonable / understandable with me. Just wondering what that number is for typical shop costs you expect to spend per visit or per year?

And then too... at what point do you stop? What dollar amount do you say 'I'm done'?

My last car before this was a 2010 honda civic. After 9 years / 150K miles, the A/C compressor stopped working? I get my kids hand me downs so this 2013 was from my son. I think he had graduated college, was living in NYC (we are in the suburbs) and the 2013 was sitting on the driveway when I had problems with the 2010. so we had his as a spare car anyway. We sold the 2010 for $1,500 with the bad A/C. (it seemed we woulnd't get the $1,000+ back if we fixed and then sold)

And we had more cars than we needed.)

Thanks!

I have a 2013 Honda Civic with 185K miles. A little dinged up but keeps going. I am no fan of new cars because of all the bells / whistles - on my wife's 2020 Subaru, I can barely change the radio station. And all those electronic panels / systems are that many more things that could fail, meaning $$$.

So I'd like to keep the civic. I think this is the most miles I've had on a car! And kinda would like to see how far I could go with it.

That said, when you bring it to a local shop for oil change / maintenance, at this age, do you just expect each visit to cost $______ ? Between all the different things at that age that need to be dealt with? Between brakes, tires, spark plugs, timing belt / chain?, fluids, etc., there's no loan / lease costs, but you are paying mainenance costs? Which is reasonable / understandable with me. Just wondering what that number is for typical shop costs you expect to spend per visit or per year?

And then too... at what point do you stop? What dollar amount do you say 'I'm done'?

My last car before this was a 2010 honda civic. After 9 years / 150K miles, the A/C compressor stopped working? I get my kids hand me downs so I got this 2013 in 2019 from my son. I think he had graduated, was living in NYC (we are in the suburbs) and the 2013 was sitting on the driveway. so we had his as a spare car anyway. We sold the 2010 for $1,500 with the bad A/C. (why put I think it was $1,000+ into the 2010 - we wouldn't get that back if we sold it. And we had more cars than we needed.)

On a 2013 Honda Civic LX with 185K miles, my shop told me last oil change 3 months ago that I was almost due for new brakes.

Now, with the dash saying I'm at 60% oil life left (I've driven about 5K since the oil change) I am hearing growling when breaking. I'm assuming the brake pads are down to the rivets.

In the past, they didn't resurface the rotors. From them and other people, i've heard that the rotors on (at least) small imports aren't really thick enough to resurface, are more susseptible to warping because there's less metal and it's more labor intensive / more expensive for the customer to resurface?

Any of that sound accurate?

So if I'm getting new rotors anyway, is there any urgency to replace the pads / rotors in a week (next opening at the shop for an appointment) vs. a month? Braking at this point seems to be unchanged.

I'd want to delay a little because it's not due for an oil change yet. (I'd like to avoid 2 trips to the shop - 1 for brakes and 1 for oil change.

Or is it important to get new brakes now? And just change the oil at the same time to be done with it?

On a 2013 Honda Civic LX with 185K miles, my shop told me last oil change 3 months ago that I was almost due for new brakes.

Now, with the dash saying I'm at 60% oil life left (I've driven about 5K since the oil change) I am hearing growling when breaking. I'm assuming the brake pads are down to the rivets.

In the past, they didn't resurface the rotors. From them and other people, i've heard that the rotors on (at least) small imports aren't really thick enough to resurface, are more susseptible to warping because there's less metal and it's more labor intensive / more expensive for the customer to resurface?

Any of that sound accurate?

So if I'm getting new rotors anyway, is there any urgency to replace the pads / rotors in a week (next opening at the shop for an appointment) vs. a month? Braking at this point seems to be unchanged.

I'd want to delay a little because it's not due for an oil change yet. (I'd like to avoid 2 trips to the shop - 1 for brakes and 1 for oil change.

Or is it important to get new brakes now? And just change the oil at the same time to be done with it?

I have 2 tuxedos - standard black notch lapel jacket and pants. Around 40R size. 1 is from my wedding 35 years ago. 1 is from my late father in law - likely same age or maybe a little newer. Both have minimal wear - 2 / 3 events at most over all those years. They don't have any brand name on them. The labels say wool.

I called one vintage clothing store near me (in NJ) who wasn't really interested - she said she might be able to give me $10 each.

I'm not looking to make a fortune to get rid of these, but wonder if that's the best I'll get.

Any recommendations - are those vintage? I'd think worst case, it'd work for an urban high schooler going to proms. I missed that May / june window though.

Oh, and a black velvety sports coat.

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are pics loading? I see them before saving...

I'm 64 with receding hairline. I had a part on the side.

My barber / stylist of 30+ years retired and I've been to someone else for 2 - 3 haircuts.

The last cut was 2 1/2 months ago just before my son's wedding. My wife came to make sure things went well. And they did.

I went back a few days ago and he and I were going over the shortness of the cut I wanted / what he did in the past. We came up with '2 and 4' - 2 on the sides and 4 on top (the settings / blades to use on the electric tool he uses).

(I just found notes I had from 2 1/2 months ago: 4 on sides and back. Scissors on top 2 on beard.)

I didn't have him do my beard this time. Anyway, my wife says my hair is the same on sides and top - about 1/4". That's a buzz cut?! (way shorter than anything I've had as an adult. Nothing wrong about it - I might even keep this length... and I could do it myself with my electric hair / beard trimmer). Just way shorter than what I and my wife had expected.... and with the 2 and 4 talk, I'd expect the top to be a little longer than the sides?

I emailed him a pic asking if this was a 2 & 4... I'm thinking maybe he forgot the 4 part of '2 and 4'.

But he wrote back saying he did 2 & 4.

YES - I screwed up on not finding my notes about 4 on the head and 2 on the beard.

I can't say for sure with my bad memory if my hair now is the length of my beard from the last cut. Maybe it is.

But how much difference is there between 2 and 4? Are those standard numbers?

Again, to make sure if I wasn't clear before - i'm NOT taking issue with the short haircut. I'm just curious if I should be able to tell the difference between 2 and 4. 'cause again, the hair really seems to be the same length on top and on the sides.

THANKS!

I had an issue with quicken deluxe, as described in the post:

https://www.reddit.com/r/quicken/comments/1uwjhai/any_recommendation_where_to_start_troubleshooting/

TL/DR - the message 'quickens online services aren't available' I was getting was NO help in pointing me to the solution that was related to the several day lapse in my license.

Not sure if that's why my chase and schwab accounts weren't updating for weeks (and the one step update saying everything is successful).

But there was NO indication that there was an issue with the license.

You want money in a subscription? You keep updating the app? Why not build in troubleshooting issues / make it more robust that a lapse in the subscription doesn't break things.

And interesting - I learned now that if we stop paying you, we can still use the current data files / accounts (but no online updates). AND no adding new accounts (even if we don't want them to be able to be automatically updated).

Just renewed for another year to connect with my brokerage accounts. And I notice this.

I did also have chase with an out of date last sync. And green message that the update was successful today.

I wound up disconnecting chase online updates. Now can't get it back... I get these error messages. Don't see anyone else complaining about this on x. Is it me?

https://i.redd.it/vrnlpihi39dh1.gif

https://i.redd.it/rq049lhi39dh1.gif

https://i.redd.it/ztzoxjhi39dh1.gif

I’m looking to get some tritium vials. A few months ago I was asking if people were getting hit with a tariff charge after the order gets delivered. Specifically from Mixglo.

And some people said yes.

I wonder now if that is still happening - I think the Supreme Court ruled the tariffs were illegal and they were removed? But he was gonna find another way to put tariffs back on.

Not sure how that stands these days

So has anyone gotten an order delivered in the last month or so and then get a follow up charge for a tariff? And / or you got an order, but haven’t gotten anything after that?

And if you’ve gotten a charge for tariffs, how long after the delivery was it?

Thanks! Have a great weekend

Hi, sorry if these are stupid questions.

First is daily Solitaire app? For iOS? I don’t see that specific name in the App Store.

I do see loads of Solitaire apps

I’ve been playing Solitaire by Mobility for years now - they have a daily deal I play every day. Sometimes if I’m up after midnight, I’ll play it before going to bed :-)

I’m 64 and my mom taught me Solitaire when I was a kid - she played it a lot. I know there’s loads of other versions? But I just know the traditional one.

I’ve learned It’s better to play a card from the seven piles rather than from the top pile (sorry I had to play, but haven’t learned the phrase for the different piles)

The app I use, let you set a percentage of winning deals. Am I wrong? I’ve said it to 100% winning hands. If I don’t win it, it might be because it was unwinnable but more likely because I didn’t play it correctly setting it to 100 let’s me know it’s all my fault if I don’t solve it

That said, am I wrong to think - there’s rules and strategy, but sometimes do you have to replay a game several times trying different approaches? Don’t bring down this card even if you can so next time through the deck, you’ll see different cards. (I play the 3 card deal).

I’ll have to replay a game sometimes a load of times before winning. Or even not winning and then have it show me how to play to win.

In the statistics in the game I thought I saw a category of something like games played without any cards going up to the aces? For some reason, I don’t see it now in the statistics, but it was zero when I saw it and now I keep thinking is that possible? probably very few deals would let you get that.

Take care!

Just got an email that my subscription is expiring 8/4 (I was paying 4.99 / month for 12 months). And they want $26 / month after that.

Can anyone let me know what is the best rate these days?

And best strategy to get it? Cancel and then wait (how long?) to look to get that better rate in chat? Phone?

My wife listens to Sirius and would rather not have to wait too long without it : (