u/MrShnatter

If I go to gmail.com on the web, I see loads of folders - updates, forums, promotions, spam, etc. that don't show in outlook 365 for my gmail address. I'm familiar with m365 exchange for my domain email address - unless I'm mistaken, what you see in outlook is identical to what you would see if you log into office.com. ie, all the folders.

I know - google doesn't really have folders that you put mail into. It's really that the email gets labels?

If I want to check my spam folder or see why I didn't get an incoming email, I have to go to gmail.com to check all the folders? Is there a way to do that from Outlook?

Some questions about cloud exclusions:

1. Is there a way to see what apps / files each cloud exlclusion is for? All I can see is the hash. Like this one: 4214fa66e957a742843f0329fc95c3a1756dddee I google that and don't get any results (hoping to get a file name or app?)

2. How many are there? I had 7 exclusions I created. I selected all 7, exported my exclusions, deleted the 7 exclusions, then imported the json file. I got the 7 back, I deleted those 7 again and now the counter shows 316 items. (it duplicated all the cloud exclusions?!

I tried that again and that time, it said 165 weren't imported.

any thoughts on how to identify / delete the dupe cloud exclusions?

I'm here in NJ. I have a bunch of computer parts, tools, devices I want to sell.

Anyone care to comment on the different hamfests coming up in the area - which you go to? Which are the largest for tailgating? Most popular? Any better / worse for selling computer / tech things vs. ham gear?

Some are a farther drive for me so I'd like the trips to be worth the travel : )

Am I missing any?

23-May bara http://www.bara.org

30-May wall https://vcfed.org/vcf-swap-meet/

31-May split rock http://www.splitrockara.org/hamfest

6-Jun fairlawn http://www.Fairlawnarc.org

20-Jun piscataway http://w2qw.org

12-Jul sussex http://scarcnj.org

25-Jul wall http://www.njarc.org

29-Aug spring lake http://www.n2mo.org

26-Sep tinton falls https://gsara.club

11-Oct mullica hill http://HamFest.W2MMD.org

Thanks!

I've been running 2 desktop PCs -

1 with i7-4790 CPU and 16GB RAM on Windows 10 Pro with an SSD with 300GB free

1 with i5-7500 CPU and 16GB RAM on Windows 11 Pro with an SSD with 200GB free.

As much as the benchmarks seem low - 7.2K/2.2K multi/single thread for the i7 & 6K/2.2K for the i5, they aren't all that 'slow'. 1 of them is slower than I think it could be and I'm thinking to wipe a reinstall the OS, apps and data.

Admittedly, that's a time suck. But the computer will run better.

Then I wonder, what's the cost of a new PC. For $750, i see an i5-14400 desktop with 16GB RAM. That chip has a benchmark of 25K/3.7K.

I realize the processor benchmark is just 1 part of affecting the speed of a PC. amount and type of RAM, type of drive and interface, etc.

But I wonder (and always wondered this, when helping others in the same situation) - will a new computer really be that much faster than the old one? And this is for casual use, NOT gaming. Excel, surfing the web, watch videos, etc.

Is there a way to quantify how much faster a new PC would be vs. an old one? Realisitically, most of the use is intermittent - open the app, browse windows explorer for a file, download an app from the web. The amount of time waiting on the PC is a second or 2 or less each time. So even with a processor that's 2 - 3x as fast as the old PC doesn't mean you are getting your work done 2 - 3x as fast- 4 hours instead of 8.

How do you decide when to get a new PC vs. keep the one you have?

I have a Creality Ender 3 v3 se printer I bought used 1 1/2 years ago.

Overall, it's worked fine.

I've been using orca slicer for several months+ now, using the default settings for this printer, esun PLA+ and .12 or .2 layer with .4 nozzle. I haven't replaced the nozzle (it came with a spare nozzle).

I use different brands / types of PLA but overall, the esun PLA+ setting has made good results.

Recently went to print something using a spool of white PLA that had been open for maybe a year? And got a mess. I saw the nozzle / metal block was coated with a coat of the white filament and the rubber cap (which was already torn but previously had stayed on) had come off.

Processing img rj4cc37hqx1h1...

Thought it might need to be dried?

I did a retraction and with the nozzle / block hot, I wiped off the white filament / coating with a cloth.

I opened a sealed spool of white and tried again (different brand). Got this:

Processing img 6hxte30eqx1h1...

I cleaned the bed (as I usually do) with rubbing alcohol. Then with dish detergent / hot water.

I load a newly opened spool of brown. And getting these.

Processing img m491ne8kqx1h1...

Processing img aszdge8kqx1h1...

The lines aren't touching / adhered to others. Check the warm up line on the left - wobbly!?

I tightened bolts on the machine - none were loose anyway. It was a dramatic change / fail from working good to the first white mess. It was a different gcode / project than before. but by the time I got to the brown one... that is a gcode I printed fine before with that same brown filament.

I'm thinking the problems are not:

the filament (the 2nd white is new, the brown was used successfully before)
the bed adhesion (since I cleaned it good)
the gcode files. (since I tried a gcode file that printed fine with that brown before).

What to check on the machine?

Would you bother replacing the rubber cap around the nozzle because it's torn? Leaving it off, I'd think there'd be more heat loss from the nozzle?

THANKS!

I inherited a management console. I'd like to try to clean it up.

I went into the exclusions page and checked each item, deleting most exclusions page - warez, etc.

is there a way to clear the list of alerts? it's a long list, some unmitigated. I'd like to 'start over'.

Is there a way to ignore / delete these previously unmitigated alerts?

Is there a way to see what's in the quarantine folder across all the agents? To delete the files / free up disk space / just be able to view what's in there currently.

A bunch of endpoints have cryptic machine names. Is what I found correct - the only way to change that asset name is to change it on the OS?

THANKS!

I have a couple not being used iphones. I'd like to get the cheapest service I can get for them for minimal use (gmail and other want a cell phone to text codes to... I have several gmail accounts).

I've seen tello and others. Taxes and fees usually aren't in those advertised prices, right? You have to go through the checkout process just to find out there's $$$ of fees and taxes?

Any recommendations for cheapest service based on 1 - 2 MB of data and 10? 20? minutes / month?

And these days, are you typically getting numbers that have already been used / you'll get loads of spam calls and texts? and the bill will be higher than I expect? : )

This page I just looked at:

https://www.staples.com/stores/recycling

Says you CAN recycle tech. Bottom right column talks of fees for a few things. (printers, batteries and monitors)

But there's no mention of getting points for those or all the other things.... do you still get points?

I saw a local news article about a Staples closing as part of a bigger 225 store closing in 2026. but the article said they didn't know what other stores were closing.

Anyone know if a list is out yet?

TL/dr - any advice on how to get my address back after getting this email?

I just got an email from Google on my Gmail recovery address (a non Gmail account).

I’ve had the address for decade(s) now?

Over time and for various reason reasons, I’ve created other Gmail addresses, which forwarded to this address. (some addresses would forward to other addresses, which then forward to this account).

Outlook would check this account every few minutes

Realistically, most all of the mail in and out of all these Gmail accounts are for non-critical accounts with websites (I think this Reddit account is one of them I need to change the email address)

I have a couple vanity domains/email is through paid Microsoft 365 services so I can switch the more important website accounts like this one to a vanity domain address.

So it’s not life-changing, but it would be nice to get the account back (it’s based on my name)

Partly because there’s pictures and files on Google Drive and photos (I have the “originals“, I put them on Google Drive to share with others).

partly because it’s based on my name and someone from my past might only have this gmail address.

Partly because I have a Google voice number I ported over to Google voice.

Realistically though, a scammer had signed me up for thousands of mailing lists just a couple months ago in an attempt to hide a confirmation email from a company they were trying to scam - they got into my Etsy account and used somebody else’s credit card to place an order). So while I spent a fair amount of time unsubscribing from most of them, some keep coming and I think my address has been sold the other marketers, cause I’m getting a lot more real spam mail than I had in the past.

Any advice/info on the likelihood of getting this address back?

Thanks!

Wonder if I need to be concerned about making mistakes trying to maximize sign up promos if we move to Chase. Can anyone comment on my thinking?

Looking to have 3 checking accounts in the end - 1 business with me being only officer / person on account, 1 joint personal with my wife, 1 individual personal for me.

There's a $500 new business account promo, $400 new personal account promo and $900 new personal promo.

I was thinking I'd open the complete business and 1 individual total account under my name. Both would be new accounts / I am new to Chase. I'd get 500 + $400 in a few months. They'd be linked online / single login to access both.

My wife would open another individual total account and would have enough money to be eligible for the $900 sign on.

We do what's needed to meet the bonus requirements and wait the x months till the sign up bonuses are applied. so we get $1,800

THEN... we change the registration on 1 of the individual accounts to be joint between us (change her's I'm thinking since the other 2 are already linked?)

That joint account can then be linked to my business and individual accounts so all 3 are accessible with a single login?

Anyone see issues with the process of getting the $1,800? Any problems with thinking all 3 can be under 1 login down the road? Any gotchas you can think of?

And then the question of avoiding monthly fees. 1 of the personal total account would have weekly direct deposit of over $1,000. Does that get 0 monthly fee for all 3 accounts?! Or just zero for that total account. For linking purposes, 2 totals and 1 complete account don't meet the linked requirements for getting out of the monthly fee?

And if that last question's answer is yes.... can / should I move 1 or more accounts to higher tiers of checking to avoid the fees on all the accounts? The business would routinely have >$10K, the individual would have about $1K and the joint (with direct deposit) would have $5K - $15K over a month.

THANKS!

I'm in NJ.

Looking for recommendations on where to open a couple personal and 1 business account.

Was with TD bank for 20+ years (came over to TD when they bought Commerce).

I think I'm looking for:

I see offers for opening accounts with different banks. I'd like to max how much I get across the 3 accounts (so looking for 1 bank for all 3 accounts. Total balance across the 3 accounts might be $4K at the lowest. Most times $10K+. But could deposit more if it will get bigger bonus.

a single web / app login for both personal and business accounts

Online bill pay (and with the single login, be able to enter a vendor to pay 1x and can pay from either personal or business accounts).

Overdraft protection?

be able to deposit checks into any of the accounts with the app. And a high max / check? TD was $5K max / check and $5K max / day. It was the rare times I had to go to a branch when I got a check larger than that.

I'd say I'd like a branch nearby, but if the max / check is high enough, not important? What do people go to branches these days?

Minimal / no fees? 1 personal account would have direct deposit of $1,800 / week

TD would charge a monthly charge if the balance dropped below $2,500 at any time in the month. I'd like (not a big deal though) that it's based on an average? Seems goofy - you could have 1 million in the account for 29 days. 1 day in the month you go to $2K and get a monthly fee.

THANKS!

Anyone remember Microsoft's Front Page? create web pages / websites and upload them to the server.

That's what I know / too old to learn too much newer.

My needs are MINIMAL. I can 'hand code' html and that's what I've done for years - again, minimal needs!! (Font size = x has been depricated?!).

Is there something like FrontPage these days?

I DO know I can do something in word and save as htm.

But there's SOOOOOO much stuff in the resulting page. For the couple times I've used it, I delete most all of that and the page works fine. Too hard to find the 'real' things around all that other stuff.

And I guess I should mention - the type of pages I am dealing with are some text with links and maybe a background.

I realized - what I might do now on a desktop, I also need to check my iphone to see how it looks on a smaller screen.

Any advice on something that makes SIMPLE html?

I have onedrive and loads of pics & videos from my son's wedding this past weekend. I'd like to let people browse them as pics / videos - see thumbnails / smaller pics and if they want, they can click on 1 and see that pic / video larger. And have the < and > on either side to scroll through the pics.

Onedrive doesn't seem to want to do that? When the shared link to that folder loads, it's in detail mode to start (even though they are all pics / videos). You CAN change to tiles. but then there's loads of space lost on the screen for the file names.

And when you click on a pic, you can't go to the next one unless you close that and go back to the full list?

I'm trying to make this easy for non-tech people.

I never used sharepoint. Can that handle loads of pictures better? Can I point sharepoint to my onedrive for the files? or if I want them on onedrive, I need to also copy them to sharepoint (I have a vanity domain / tenant, paying for m365 business standard if that matters).

Tried getting $600 at teller from 1 of 3 accounts I’ve had since commerce days (25+ years) today - my sons wedding weekend.

Pulling the accounts (1 individual, 1 joint, 1 business) on Monday. Took 15 minutes and teller was arrogant. I left without the cash.

So where to go?

I like deposit in the app but go to branch once in a blue moon

Online bill pay

Don’t pay fees - I think I have to keep $2.5k in the accounts?

Any advice?

I get scam emails from gmail accounts all too often. Is there an email at gmail that is actually monitored to forward the emails to, so they can see it's a scam and shut down the email address before people get scammed?

I've seen in the past with some email providers? Maybe AOL, yahoo? They want you to fill out a long form about the email you received. cut & paste the header, list the email address it came from, etc. Way too much time for me, and most all of these are blatant scams. They can get a forwarded email, check the creation date of the account, see they sent the same email to thousands and read the first line of the email to know it's a scam.

And yeah, they can just create another account. And shutting down the account after they sent the emails won't help much (this most recent one had a jpg about a bill from geek squad for $160 and they want you to call to dispute it). But I can dream I'm doing good?

I want to help protect less alert people from scams... but not going to spend my day doing it.

Along those same lines - there's no global reporting system for scam phone numbers? Like the number listed in the jpg... no chance there's 1 central system for reporting phone numbers used in scams? There's SOOO many carriers now. it's impossible? for someone on their own to find what company handles that number? And the scams continue...

I need to print something for a wedding this weekend. there's 2 parts.

For the first part, Orca says it will take 6.5 hours.

I am using the default ender 3 v3 se profile in orca and the stock esun pla+ filament choice and .12mm fine @ creality 3 v 3 se 0.4 tip, the size that's in the printer.

Soon after starting printing the printer had 36 hours for remaining time. at 4% now it's at 22hours.

this is the one of the biggest things I printed (it does only use 140g of filament... it's the base for a gavel - the part you'd bang the gavel onto). I never noticed how much the remaining time changes. (that said, most of my smaller things used less filament but took longer - upwards of a day to actually print. I never compared before but think Orca was close to that - I knew things would take upwards of a day. I've never noticed such a big gap in printing time between the app and printer.

Some questions:

1. Any thoughts on this getting close to actually only taking 6.5 hours?

2. any tweaks you've done to Orca or your slicer to get the calculated print time close to the actual?

THANKS!

I feel I am late to the show, but have started collecting Lincoln pennies - mentally I'm a kid - my wife says even with our kids grown and out of the house, she'll never be an empty nester : )

Tell me I can't have something and I want it more 😄

My main focus was to get the copper pennies - some 1982 and earlier ones for their copper value. But starting to wonder what the odds there's actually collectible coins in there? MOST are very circulated, especially the older you get.

I did read the FAQs.

I've gotten a few hundred dollars of pennies so far.

After going to the bank, I empty them out of the rolls they come in, then manually separate pennies with the shield on the back, Lincoln memorial and wheat pennies. And actually, a couple / few dozen of dirty dimes and foreign coins - Canada, 1c & 2c Euro, south africa, etc. Oh! And 1 steel 1943 penny.

And there were a couple rolls with machine rolled ends with really bright coins. Turns out they are 1974. Seems someone got the rolls years ago and finally turned them into the bank?

Anyway...

1. The FAQs say any random coin after 1965 is worth face value. I know the pre 1982 pennies ARE worth more than that for the copper, right? So besides the copper value of pre 1982 pennies, any chance there's collector value in the coins?

2. The FAQs did mention wheats and the steel 1943 having more than face value. Beyond that, are there certain years that you look for?

Even when circulated condition? I may be wrong, but trying to look at each one for double die, etc., is a lost cause, at least for me and my bad eyesight (and are rare). Looking at each one under a loupe would be a time suck.

I know the 1996 and earlier canada pennies are copper too. I am making sure to keep those.

I posted previously about the chance there's an app / software that can look at a coin and identify the year. At first I was hoping to just sort pre and post 1982 coins (and weigh the 1982s). It would be neat if it would also indicate (beep a different tone) if the year is one in a list of more valuable years.

As it is, I have 2 piles now - the 'to be looked at' pile that I have to look at to pull out non-pennies, wheats and shields. leaving the largest pile of Lincoln memorial pennies.

For that big lincoln memorial pile, I started weighing them 2 - 3 at a time, but that's slow. I'm working on a track and magnets arrangement someone here turned me onto... copper pennies vs. zinc pennies will roll at different speeds through a magnetic field. They will fall into 2 different buckets if you get things right. That's how I'm going to deal with the much bigger 'for scale / magnet' pile. That is, if I can't find software to read the year.

https://preview.redd.it/x6qk7zwjxsxg1.jpg?width=2673&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=3742040ffab785e9f46de6080775a23594ae1f69