u/boiyo12

So i bought Betty Crocker fudge brownies and I have 3 issues.

1. I wanted to add m and m mini into the batter and thought id be fine as it baked. But both the m and m minis AND the chocolate chunks it came with completely liquefied and became part of the batter. Like u can't feel their texture or taste them at all. Why? I put it on 325 for 45 minutes.

2. how do i make the center more dense when using these pre made brownie mixes? Its so soft and disintegrated into my hands whereas I like my brownies more firm.

3. how do i make the top more cruncy/hard?

So im buying an autel powerscan ps100 to work on the electronics of my 1992 cadillac fleetwood; figure out why the brake light is on, stuff like that. But i keep hearing people talking about being careful with these types of tools not to "fry your electronics".

So now as a beginner in automotive electronics im naturally nervous. How are people frying their stuff with these tools? What are the most common mistakes and how do i avoid them?

PLEASE. I live in quebec where we salt our roads more than our pasta. EVERY SINGLE CAR ive detailed had salt stains that refused to budge no matter what people told me to do. Vinegar, hot water, dedicated salt removers like oxyclean salt eraser, brass brushes, vaccuum Extractor, apc, carpet cleaners. Not a dent in these deep mounds of salt. HOW do I get rid of these??? Im willing to even buy a dedicated tool just for this if I have to.

My current process for wheel cleaning is applying either meguiars all wheel cleaner or adams wheel and tire cleaner onto the wheel, waiting a minute, then using a soft bristle brush and slowly cleaning off the whole rim.

But my GOD does it take a long time. Like a ridiculously long time. And the brush is so soft it doesnt even get all the brake dust off. I've seen some videos on Facebook of people just applying the cleaner than using mf towel. But does the wheel cleaners actually apply enough lubrication to do that safely?

Do you absolutely need a steamer for some stains or issues or is it more like a pressure washer where you dont HAVE to have one to clean a car but it makes the job much faster/easier?

So im a bit confused by the different use cases. When would you opt for a ozone machine and when for a bio bomb if a car smells bad? From what I understand, ozone for cig smoke and mold and bio bomb for sweat? Also does bio bomb permanently fix a smelly car or its a temp thing like an air freshener?

I bought the game on sale and no matter what time of day the only servers with players are like 100 ping EU servers where I cant kill anything cause of the ridiculous ping

Gumifix and adams matt protectant are so insanely expensive where I live so im looking at either mother's vlr or chemrical guys mat renew for a NON SLIP matt restorer

But which is better? I.e. better for colour and less slippery?

For wax to work best u need to wash the car first then apply it. But people on this sub recommended that I can use ceramic spray wax the same way; i dont NEED to iron decon and polish the car for a simple turtle wax ceramic spray wax. Its not a real ceramic coating. It'll still stick to an imperfect surface just not as long/well.

But then... whats the point of wax? If you end up at the same step anyways why not use ceramic spray wax that'll last longer? Its not even much more pricey.

1992 cadillac fleetwood 4.9l v8

My car has 3 leak points; where the oil pan/timing cover gasket touch, a rear valve cover leak, and an exhaust leak.

Now I have a bit of ptsd with leaks from this car. One time I was driving and noticed a puddle of oil under me as I was stopped. Turned out the oil switch sender burst and oil was gushing out. I was lucky I noticed at a stop or else engine would've lost all oil in a minute max.

Another time there was a massive coolant leak from the radiator that I again only noticed by luck because it happened on start up and I was checking the headlights on my car before leaving.

Whats especially alarming is that the car has no oil pressure gauge or coolant temp gauge. And the warning lights it does have for low oil pressure or engine overheat apparently only come on when damage is most likely already done.

So now I'm trying to cover my bases and im willing to fix any major future leak point.

So i have 2 questions:

1. are the areas that are currently leaking (timing cover/oil pan gasket and valve cover) concerning and likely to worse? Or are they low pressure leak points where i can just top off with oil here and there since they dont seem to be leaking much

2. what other high pressure leak points should I look into replacing as preventative measures? Rn im looking at the water pump, thermostat and a few others.

What are the worst parts brands you guys use? Like big name brands you wont put in ur own cars anymore or customers cars because youve had such bad experiences

For me it HAS to be surprisingly tyc. Im on my FOURTH radiator from them and each of the 4 had either a crack in the radiators or a leak. Idk if its the shipping company or them but other radiators ive gotten never had these issues.

I mean products where you were impressed how tf theyre selling this stuff. I know some people are gonna just blanket statement brands like armor all and chemical guys but some of their stuff I find pretty good for the price (CG water spot remover and armor all upholstery and carpet cleaner)

Thats why im really referring to bad PRODUCTS over blanket statements like whole brands... unless the whole brand really is that bad but i dont think armor all and CG is as bad as people make them out to be. CG is just overpriced and armor all is sometimes bad.

For me , the worst product its probably oxyclean winter salt eraser. Literally water did more to remove salt stains than that stuff.

I know Hyundai pre 2020 gas cars were basically time bombs on wheels. But my dad is considering getting a model between 2020 and now. Are they still piles of crap? I heard they got "better" but idk if that means good. He is NOT the type to want to do major repairs on a car thats newish

I drive a 1992 Cadillac fleetwood. Now before I boyght it the head gasket blew because it overheated from a faulty thermostat. The owner said he saw the coolant temp light turn on, then turned off the car and towed it and the gasket was already blown. It seems once the light comes on its too late?

But here's the issue. Theres no temp gauge. And im not mechanically inclined enough to drill through the firewall and put a new gauge and stuff. Its just a high temp light that comes on.

So let's say it happens again and either my water pump or thermostat fails while im driving. How am I supposed to know? Someone said if the heats not coming through the vent but I drive it in summer so heats always off. Someone else said a coolant smell but for some reason my cabin always smells of coolant, probably cause I just changed it so it has a pungent sweet smell that fills the car still.