u/Clive1792

Looks like I'm going to have a bit of trouble with this.

I have an 'Omega' mechanical watch. I say it like 'Omega' because my dad got it when he went to China/Hong Kong & who knows whether it's even genuine or not, but it's irrelevant to me as it has huge sentimental value as my dad is no longer alive & he gave me it.

It came with a leather strap which has cracked. I've never been a fan of leather straps with that being one of the big reasons.

I bought a metal strap off Amazon which as I've just opened it now I notice it's got a quick release pin.

Due to where the pin holes are I can't get it to sit well at all. The watch itself is blocking the strap from going in enough to locate the pin.

I'd prefer to go with metal but everything seems to be quick release so I'm wondering if I'm going to keep having this trouble.

Also what should I measure exactly when buying in a strap? As depending on where on the watch I measure, it's either 19mm or 20mm. That's measuring just the watch. Or should I be measuring somewhere on the old strap or even the old pin?

Fancied a group ride this morning but nothing with silly speed. Found a breakfast group ride. I forget the w/kg figures, i think it was something like 1.5-2.2. There was about 90some people on so not a bad number.

After a few miles I'm left for dust. Can't keep pace at all. I'd have to have been doing like 90% effort or something just to stay with them. I was seeing frequent 3.0 w/kg.

Like why join group rides at a set pace if you're just going nuts on the pace?

I've been on other group rides where people are constantly beyond the red bar. Just go ride solo or something.

When I got my Shield (model in title) I slapped a low capacity SSD in to the main USB slot & left the second slot available for a games controller as I had Retroarch in the back of my mind (I know you can do wireless but I always prefer wired connections wherever possible).

I don't know the terminology but the hard drive was formatted/attached in such a way that the Shield saw it as its own capacity if you get me? As in I couldn't just disconnect it & attach to a PC. I could access it from a PC over my network but that was it.

FFWD some time & it was becoming a pain putting a handful of movies on there for Plex, removing them to free up space & add more new ones. So what I did was buy a mains powered USB hub & attach a new, larger SSD. FFWD some more time & I switched that SSD out for a large HDD.

What I'm thinking of doing is totally starting from scratch but I'm wondering what order I should do it in.

What I'm thinking of doing is removing the low capacity SSD & replacing it with the large SSD. Having all the system files, apps etc on that & the HDD purely for movies for Plex, nothing else.

Should I....

1. Disconnect everything. Erase the Shield. Attach the large SSD, set up as part of the Shield's storage & THEN attach the HDD.

2. Disconnect everything. Erase the Shield. Attach the large SSD & the HDD at the exact same time to the USB hub ... and I guess hope the Shield uses the SSD as its own storage & configs the HDD as being able to be removed (and attached to a PC directly)?

I'm sure there's better ways of doing things.......like NASs, but I'm dealing with this SSD & this HDD for now so I hope while it may not be 'the way', the question at least makes sense?

First off, what sort of Mini PC? I just threw in "batocera on mini pc" in to Google. I figured there's no point in going as low as you can possibly go so somewhere in the middle to top end is where you should aim for. I came to something like this. As I understand it that's on the more expensive side of things, possibly overkill? Or not?

Anyway I want you to focus on the bit in the title that says for an idiot - that's me.

I was recently looking at the WiiU & Homebrew. The universal way of thinking seems to be don't look at YouTube, only go off some guide write up.

We all cope differently & personally I find it much easier to follow a video guide than a text one. The worst part about text write ups is they'll often say select [something] yet that something doesn't even appear on the screen & so then you're stuck. Or they throw in a heap of jargon & I'm just like WTF? Where a video is just watch me & copy what I do.

So is it just a simple case of find a good YouTube guide & copy them or is there more to it than that?

I understand acquiring ROMs will be a separate thing (as in I suspect that wont be part of any Batocera/Mini PC setup due to piracy issues) but is that the only separate thing?

What I'd like to avoid is buying a Mini PC & then finding out I needed to do XYZ. Or putting Batocera on there but then finding out I need to do ABC yet there's no guide for that & it's all hush hush kind of thing.

I don't really know the way of the *arr. I get the gist of it. If you understand it fully & set it up properly then it 'gets stuff' for you.

The way I do it, with my limited knowledge, is an app on my phone & I then transfer the files to my PC. For the most part it serves me well but I've come unstuck with some of the more obscure movies.

I wish I could have some titles for you as examples but my mind has gone blank. I remember China O'Brien being a problem as barely any seeders.

As for TV Shows - my wife wanted the complete Grey's Anatomy but the app I use could only do a few complete seasons. Maybe like 5-7 seasons worth but outside of that it was struggling.

After watching that Mackenzie Shrilla crash documentary on Netflix she also wanted to see some of the other ones that've been done. I was able to get one of them through the app I use but there was a couple more that I just couldn't get. I think one couldn't be found & the other was like no seeders again.

Just a few examples really.

So this is more a question to see how good the *arr is. I'm not asking you to search the titles I mentioned, it's more a question of how did you find it when it came to searching for things outside of the main? Like you should have no issue getting any Avengers movie for example so I'm not talking about that stuff. Old, forgotten, niche titles.

I'm hoping to find someone who has experienced both & can comment rather than people who've only tried out one side of this.

Basically we were looking at getting a Nintendo Switch 2 but we're both old gamers really & while new stuff can be good, there's just something about the simplicity of old games.

So after being told about modding WiiU's & Homebrew, I mentioned this to my OH & she was keen on it as it'd save us over £400.

But then I remembered a few years ago I installed Retroarch on my Nvidia Shield just to try it out.

To be totally honest with you, I did it during a period of time off work just to see if I could do it. I got some games working, others either didn't work or I didn't have the skill to figure it out. I played a few games, enjoyed it but then went back to work & life got in the way of gaming.

In the years that have passed, I've now forgotten how I did it but if I did it once I should be able to do it again.

I've had a look at the Wii U modding & it looks quite involved. A guide should be easy enough to follow I guess providing it's up to date & doesn't say things like select 'xyz' when that isn't an option.

The first downside for me to Wii U modding is getting games on there. Understandably it's a hush-hush topic but I think I'd have to do some digging to find out how to do it whereas on the Nvidia Shield games aren't an issue.

I'm reaching out to basically just ask is there any benefit to going the Wii U route rather than the Shield & Retroarch or is the Shield & RA just all round better?

I'm hoping to find someone who has experienced both & can comment rather than people who've only tried out one side of this.

Basically we were looking at getting a Nintendo Switch 2 but we're both old gamers really & while new stuff can be good, there's just something about the simplicity of old games.

So after being told about modding WiiU's & Homebrew, I mentioned this to my OH & she was keen on it as it'd save us over £400.

But then I remembered a few years ago I installed Retroarch on my Nvidia Shield just to try it out.

To be totally honest with you, I did it during a period of time off work just to see if I could do it. I got some games working, others either didn't work or I didn't have the skill to figure it out. I played a few games, enjoyed it but then went back to work & life got in the way of gaming.

In the years that have passed, I've now forgotten how I did it but if I did it once I should be able to do it again.

I've had a look at the Wii U modding & it looks quite involved. A guide should be easy enough to follow I guess providing it's up to date & doesn't say things like select 'xyz' when that isn't an option.

The first downside for me to Wii U modding is getting games on there. Understandably it's a hush-hush topic but I think I'd have to do some digging to find out how to do it whereas on the Nvidia Shield games aren't an issue.

I'm reaching out to basically just ask is there any benefit to going the Wii U route rather than the Shield & Retroarch or is the Shield & RA just all round better?

* Thanks u/Bats586 I didn't mean to refer to it as Bitwarden in my previous post. I'd literally just been working within Bitwarden which is why I had that on the brain. Anyway....

I've a 4TB drive with maybe about 3TB written to it. The contents are currently stored within Veracrypt file containers simply because I was familiar with Veracrypt before I even heard about Bitlocker.

The annoying thing is having to mount each file & having it as individual drives. It'd be much easier if the contents could just be all on the drive as one & the whole drive is encrypted - which got me thinking about Bitlocker. Though I've never used it. So my 2 concerns with this...

1. Is there a chance of applying Bitlocker to this drive that already has 3TB of data written to it & that causing any files to be lost/corrupt/whatever?
2. So far I've never had an issue with VeraCrypt. Use the correct password & job done. Though if 'something' happened, the file container went bad or whatever then I'd only lose that 1 container. Not the rest.

So have any of you experienced a situation where you've entered the correct password, you know it's correct 100% but you're just refused entry to the drive? Something has happened.

If it all works then it'd be better for my situation but I also don't want to go through all that work for nothing.

Doubt is now creeping in & my concern is the felt blowing off. I should kick this off by stating I'm in no way decent at DIY. I'm an absolute clown. But my shed roof was leaking & YT videos made it look doable.

So I've done the apex roof as various videos say...

Sheet on either edge, centre sheet overlapping the 2 sheets. Bitumen adhesive (horrendous stuff!) where the top sheet connects to side sheets (which has now ran down the sides & dripped off & looks terrible!).

Clout nails along the edge & front/rear folds, clout nails along either edge of the top sheet as it connects to the side sheets. I still have some fascia boards to pick up & put on but that's all.

And that's basically how I did it. It felt tight at the time but walking around on top a day later I don't know if I'm overanalysing but it didn't seem as tight.

But because I always find a way to balls things up & because I'm concerned about it blowing off (hopefully that's just paranoia), I'm wondering if I should also nail batten on top, running from side to peak.

Reason being - that's how whoever built the shed did it & I suspect they know much more than me.

Although I don't see this in any video guide and plus my concern (yep, got plenty of them!) is that it'll cause more trouble than it saves.

By that I mean when the last home owners battens rotted away, I switched them out for new, but over (not much) time these began lifting, I guess due to the weather fluctuations (hot-cold), warping & I suspect were possibly part cause of the leaks I was having. When I came to rip all the old stuff off, what had previously been nailed in hard I could lift out by hand.

So over to you guys. Is this necessary or not really?

FWIW - my shed isn't an off-the-shelf shed with typically OSB roofing etc. The previous home owner build it himself out of treated timber. The roof is runs of 6"x1" timber. Or perhaps it's 5", I didn't measure. Point being there's slight gaps between each run of timber.

I've a 4TB drive with maybe about 3TB written to it. The contents are currently stored within Veracrypt file containers simply because I was familiar with Veracrypt before I even heard about Bitwarden.

The annoying thing is having to mount each file & having it as individual drives. It'd be much easier if the contents could just be all on the drive as one & the whole drive is encrypted - which got me thinking about Bitlocker. Though I've never used it. So my 2 concerns with this...

1. Is there a chance of applying Bitlocker to this drive that already has 3TB of data written to it & that causing any files to be lost/corrupt/whatever?

2. So far I've never had an issue with VeraCrypt. Use the correct password & job done. Though if 'something' happened, the file container went bad or whatever then I'd only lose that 1 container. Not the rest.

So have any of you experienced a situation where you've entered the correct password, you know it's correct 100% but you're just refused entry to the drive? Something has happened.

If it all works then it'd be better for my situation but I also don't want to go through all that work for nothing.

I can share various cams I'm the main user of - doorbell D235 for example, but the other person (my wife in this instance) can only view the footage / live. She can't change any settings.

Likewise as she's the main account holder of the cams in the garden. So when at work & the wind keeps triggering one of the cams because it's blowing plants across it, I can't mute it.

Is that just the way it is with Tapo or is there a way to give 'admin' rights to the person you're sharing with?

Basically I wasn't happy with the cabling behind my TV so I pulled absolutely everything out, disconnected everything, moved things how I wanted it & then connected things back up again.

Aside from a new HDMI cable was used because I needed a longer one for the relocation, everything else was exactly the same, just positioned elsewhere.

Turn everything on, all seems good ... get to Plex & it's offline. No matter what I try.

Cleared cache from PMS on the Shield as per a Google search.

Did a force stop & open - no good.

Reboot the shield - no good.

It's been a few years since I set it up & I remember having trouble with that process. I can't even remember how I got it all working.

I open Plex in a PC browser & it just spins for the Nvidia Shield before giving me the triangle F you.

How do I get Plex up & running again?

Or do I basically have to erase absolutely everything & start from scratch?

First off I hope I'm not forwarded to techsupport. Those guys are delete happy over there!

Basically I build my PC 15yrs ago so it's fairly old. CPU is AMD Athlon Phenom 2. Motherboard is an Asus one. I'd need to find the model number if that was important.

Anyway, I haven't changed the thermal paste in all that time. In fact...

CPU & paste are untouched from day 1 beyond blowing out with compressed air / blower gun

GPU (Nvidia GeForce GTX 460 1GB) is untouched from day 1. I don't game btw. Only time I did was SF4 & I think that was all.

PSU is untouched from day 1. I know the brand is be quiet.

Now I know the ideal thing is to replace the thermal paste periodically but that's not my question.

Like can there be any actual harm for continuing without replacing the paste?

I don't notice any difference in performance massively, but then I don't know if that's on the lines of my wife didn't notice anything wrong with the car but when I get in I can hear it clanging & banging - so maybe it is performing badly & I've just gotten used to it over the years.

Part of what puts me off replacing it is what if I break something. What if i make things worse - like twice when I've taken the car in to get the A/C regassed when it's been working but not great & it comes out totally not working at all.

I've had enough of chafing. I currently just wear Sainsbury's Specials - cotton boxers where 3-4 pairs cost like £10-£12.

I work a manual job. Climbing on/off machinery, bending down, lifting things, you get the idea. All this work plus being outside means I get sweaty AF! Putting weight on doesn't help either. The thighs rub & it gets sore, even when just leisurely walking through town on a day off.

I tried those On That Ass boxers. Got a number of pairs. They all had the same issue - the lower part of the leg would end up right in my groin in no time & I'd constantly be pulling them down. As a result I don't wear them now.

Oh and no pee hole is not something I'm a fan of tbh.

Now a couple questions really...

1. I'm looking to see what brand/s you use & can rate. With close attention paid to the anti chafing & the not riding up in to the groin. Ideally I want a pee hole, be it button or opener but it's not as much of a deal breaker as the first two.

And COST! Yes I'm looking at you Step One!

I mean if there's no choice and the only way I can get what I want is to spend a bit the so be it. But some ads I'm seeing are like £25-£30 for 1 pair of boxers & that's just nuts (no pun intended).

2. length. I've seen some listings where the boxers are longer. Maybe not quite cycling shorts length but longer than standard. I imagine these probably help with the riding up situation & anti chafing.

My wondering there is how are they when wearing shorts?

At this time of year on non work days I'll wear shorts that come slightly below the knee & if you're familiar with Scruffs shorts then my work ones probably come at the knee. Are these longer boxers going to be sticking out beyond the leg when standing / sitting?

Over to you.

I'm looking to get back in to playing the Wii U, specifically Homebrew. I've had years away from the console.

Back when I played it I bought some Wii U 'pro' controller to play games with my wife. Problem is, when it turned up it was quite clearly a Chinesium controller. Either that or nobody at Nintendo knows how to spell because the writing on the rear was terrible.

The performance wasn't great either.

I've just priced up what I think is a genuine one .... £75. For a controller for an old AF console. OUCH!

So was I just unlucky with the Chinesium one I bought or is that a fair reflection of non-genuine ones - they're just awful?

...when they're nowhere near me?

Some times I'll be riding along, I'll get the notification Joe Bloggs has given me a ride on, I'll have a look & nope he's not behind me, not in front of me, he's not even on the list on the right.

How does that happen?

For clarification, I 'm not in a group ride or a race. I'm just on my own.

Ages ago I saw this trailer on YouTube & thought I'd mark it to go & watch at the cinema ... but it never came on.

Also, depending on your source, it came out in either 2025 or 2026.

I can't find it on any of the streaming platforms that I'm on.

I'm aware of rule #9 & beyond a cam version, I can't even see it available via those means (no I'm not asking how to find it via those means).

I just want to watch it as the trailer looks great. Though the movie itself could be incredibly disappointing for all I know.

Auslogics is what I've previously used. I prefer it to dupeguru but i also have DG installed because of when I was first trying software out.

Basically I've just attached an external drive, went to a folder & noticed 2 files that were identical other than their name. I couldn't understand it as I know I ran Auslogics on this recently. So I just tried again on this folder only & it says no duplicates. I'll give you an example...

Title1: E069 Dave

Title2: E069 Dave mp4 download

Now as I read down the right hand pane in Windows 10...

#1: MP4 file / 37:56 length / 557 MB / 1280 x 720 / 20-Apr-26 / 24.00fps / 1922kbps / 2050kbps

#2: MP4 file / 37:56 length / 557 MB / 1280 x 720 / 28-May-26 / 24.00fps / 1922kbps / 2050kbps

So it's basically the exact same video file, just downloaded on different dates & it has a different file name. I actually obtained it from the same place so I must've just renamed it slightly different the second time round.

Now the auslogics settings:

* all file types

* Ignore file sizes UNCHECKED

* Criteria 3 ... I have ran searches with both ignore file names & file dates checked AND unchecked - both return no results.

* Criteria 4 ... I have ran searches with both search all file names & file names containing "Dave" (without quotes).

With DupeGuru I just went direct to the folder - no results.

Why is it returning no results whatsoever? And how do I correct this? This is actually a concern as I have numerous hard drives to go through and de-duplicate and I can't afford for it to be failing so blatantly.

Auslogics: v. 11.1.1.0

NON-pro

******* and before any mods say I should've checked out techsupport - I did. I think their mods have gone on annual leave as I'm still waiting on it being approved.

So my OH created a Bitwarden account a few years ago. I remember her saying at the time she had some issue signing up.

She was reliant on Apple Passwords but there's been times where it just doesn't do the job & I always suggest Bitwarden. I use Samsung Passwords which I only ever treat as a secondary. Bitwarden is my main.

Anyway she can't remember her password & so I had a look at whether you can delete your account if you don't know the password & Google said yes.

So step 1 - enter your email address.

This gets done & yes it gets entered correctly.

Go to click the link to open the email & it always wants to use Apples native email client (no idea if that's the key here as to why it's not working but it really shouldn't be).

Go to the Gmail app & wait (& wait for days!) and nothing comes through. Check spam folder - same issue. Nothing shows.

So you'd think that either the email was spelled incorrectly (I can 100% assure you it was not) or there was never an account created in the first place (yet when in the Gmail app & searching "Bitwarden" it takes you to a 2023 email from Bitwarden saying welcome - so clearly an account was created).

Have tried just acting like the email never had an account (basically sign up fresh & see if it pings an email - it doesn't).

So how can she delete this account so she can then re-create it on this email?